rgardner

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Posts posted by rgardner

  1. 1 hour ago, PitMan71 said:

    How can custom wall types be moved from on drawing to another? I have a couple custom wall types that I made that I want to use in another drawing.

     

    Thanks

    Shane

    Use the export wall types tool and import wall types tool into the new plan. That will copy all of your wall types.  You can also save wall types to your user library.

  2. 26 minutes ago, krrbnsn said:

    I feel really dumb asking this but I'm getting frustrated. I need to include a square foot schedule in my drawings. Something that essentially looks like the following. I know how to make a custom schedule that is similar but breaks it down by room but I just need each floor. Please tell me what I'm doing wrong. 

     

    Using Chief Architect 16

     

    Square Foot Table
    1st Floor 1523
    2nd Floor 983
    Garage 739
    Porch 256
       
    Total 3501

    Polylines and polyline custom schedule unless you have a custom macro system built.  There are some users who sell these type of systems such as @Renerabbitt@Alaskan_Son & @Joe_Carrick

  3. 1 minute ago, Ringos said:

    Why is CA pressure treated lumber orange color? Any way to get it greenish like it is in real life?

     

     

    Screenshot 2024-11-26 at 4.48.40 PM.png

    Screenshot 2024-11-26 at 4.48.57 PM.png

    By creating your own texture.  The color depends on the wood species and region.  Alot of the P.T. in the PNW where chief is located is orange-brown.

  4. 2 hours ago, DesignerKristie said:

    Hello all mighty CA users! I'm still a novice here and wondering if there is a way to create an angled slab sink, somewhat similar to the below image. 

    image.png

    Your picture was not loaded correctly but I am guessing you are looking for an integrated sink?  

     

    Maybe this video will get you in the right direction.  https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/6201/accessible-bathroom-counter-with-integrated-sinks.html

     

    Also welcome to the forum.  Can you help us to help you better in the future take some time to include a signature with version information and some basic computer information.  Not really relevant on this question but in the majority of the questions it definitely helps as some tools are only available in certain versions.

    • Like 1
  5. 1 hour ago, Nigel8159 said:

    Did anyone ever get a response to this question.  I am really struggling with the same issue, specifically the mulled unit with tapered top near the top of the wall.  The auto framing makes a big mess of it.  Framing for angled walls is IMO much more important to be able to show than a normal wall, so this seems like an important issue to address

    That is a bit tricky but the key is to add a "throw away" piece that you would place for the vertical past it and use the "join and miter ends" or "join and lap ends" tool which will mess up the "throw away" piece which you then delete and trim the new angled piece to the jack or king stud.image.thumb.png.2b6746336e4faf3b532e04cf52620305.png

  6. 46 minutes ago, Designer_Maddee said:

    We are an interior design firm looking to potentially contract someone to help us build out templates that help make our process easier for plans & elevations. We have no idea what this would cost so I would love to hear estimates. We are doing different detailed floor plans (electrical, wall details, flooring details, furniture layouts, etc.) and elevations (lighting elevations, wall molding details, cabinetry details, etc.). I think we need to simplify some of the overall elevation views (it feels like there are too many lines sometimes, which I know is layers, but I'm not confident is figuring out turning them all off). Would love some guidance or if you'd be interested in helping us! 

     

    We are currently using x15 but are upgrading to x16 soon! 

    Great step to get your business to the next level on the drafting front.  There are several who offer this service.  I believe that @Renerabbittis about to release or has ready to release his new prop plan for interior designers.

  7. 16 hours ago, rgardner said:

    How are you new to the software and using X11?

    I hope that I am wrong about this, but...  Just assuming from the downvote to my question and the fact that you are using X11 which is 5 years old and not available for purchase anymore yet you claim that you are newish, then you are using pirated software.  You probably won't get alot of support from the community who have spent good money to pay for the software and support from chief.

     

    Best of luck in your endeavors.

    • Like 4
    • Upvote 4
  8. 1 hour ago, winterdd said:

    That is what I am saying. Subfascia is 2x6, see below in red, and I have the eave sub fascia turned off. Regular fascia is 2x8 directly below what I circled. That is way more than 1 3.4" gap too. This is why I am puzzled.

     

    image.thumb.png.002787b115f89b4958f45b1ebc654aaa.png

    I would say to post the plan. I think its something with your roof structure but it might be the age old problem where the wall will not build to under the surface of the roof.  If you want vertical purlins that is probably what it is.  Depends on your truss spans.

  9. 1 hour ago, winterdd said:

    It is....the actual fascia, eave and gable, is 2x8. Is that what you mean?

    change your "SUB-FASCIA" to the thickness of your structure and your soffits will move to that thickness...  Currently you have a 2x6 structure and 2x8 sub-fascia so the soffiting is 7 1/4" from the deck leaving the 1 3/4" gap.

     

  10. 35 minutes ago, rlackore said:

     

    Just curious. What is the advantage to this strategy? What problem does it solve that an invisible wall does not?

    Most of the time it would be fine.  However sometimes an invisible wall can cause issues with other items and or wall transitions, for example if on the other side of that wall there is a close perpendicular wall it can sometimes cause issues.  Or if you have a cabinet close to it that you don't want to turn off auto fillers on the plan the invisible wall can cause auto fillers to be added.   Many reasons.

     

  11. 1 hour ago, rlackore said:

    You can assign a Molding to a Shelf; however, the Molding will "wrap" at a free end, as shown in the picture, so unless the shelf butts against a wall, it will look weird in 3D, unless you add an invisible wall to make the "wrap" disappear.

     

    Assign a molding:

    497644714_ScreenShot09-25-24at07_50AM.thumb.JPG.c42e60ca13d004f6dc266c2a76c36474.JPG

     

    Molding "wraps" at free end:

    1919848465_ScreenShot09-25-24at07_53AM.thumb.JPG.000a1f27f47225242f0b86b24fcb4edd.JPG

     

    Unless you place an Invisible Wall:

    640679171_ScreenShot09-25-24at07_55AM.thumb.JPG.07f9df6314e9ce8091eb43a6e4e1fbdc.JPG

    Pretty sure you can bury a partition in the ceiling or floor at that point as well and it will stop.

  12. 2 hours ago, Larry_Sweeney said:

    It's a "fairly" simple task to get the right look for side casings and lintels once you are familiar with the program, but we aren't discussing anything about the sill. I wish CA would do some work with their exterior (and interior) windowsills. There should be some type of setting for sill thickness, slope angle and whether there is a "subsill" or not for the exterior sill. 

    Also, show me an actual window that has a window stool attach to the bottom of a window frame like the way CA places a sill (stool} on the inside of a window. They (CA) have been "building" their windows like this since "day one" and it's about time they make it right! I can't believe this doesn't bother anyone else. Sorry about the rant. I "need" my morning coffee. :)

    Draw a custom Sill profile how you want it...

  13. @MarkMc gave some excellent tips up there in his post and I will say that I may have to import a symbol from outside sources maybe 6x a year tops.  Usually I only do that for custom appliances, or commercial fixtures. I use no other modeling programs and as he says many times you can even find a similar symbol and modify it using tools like the temporary delete surface tool, stretch planes, offsets, molding polylines, and the create symbol tool.  

     

    Chief is FAR MORE POWERFUL than many users understand.  Especially if you have never given it a fair shake because you fall back on sketchup, VW, or other modeling programs.

     

    Now would I suggest it for a cabinet shop to try to draw cnc files from NO.  But for interior design and architectural design including custom and period pieces it is amazing.

  14. So I would never do this except if you are already developed but why not just use a Stair landing for the loft portion, manually place the door and stairs/ladder?  You will have to do cad work for the framing pages for the floor but that could also just be done with a note since its such a simple one.

    • Upvote 1
  15. On 8/23/2024 at 1:00 PM, Michael_Gia said:

    why would you say he needs a second floor there?

    Ever try showing framing of a landing for construction documents?  Granted depending on the need of the OP he may just be trying to render it which means that he can use a landing.  However if he needs to do anything else with it then a second floor for that portion will be much easier.

  16. 20 hours ago, westvale said:

    Hello everyone,

     

    Does anyone know how to get a fascia on the place where it's missing in this screenshot? 

    image.thumb.png.b3e185fa69f6dfcb1b72cce2b85162cd.png

    Impossible to tell without the plan file but I would venture a pretty good guess that your manually placed roof planes are not square.  Select that edge of the roof plane in plan view and open up and look at that selected edge to see if its at 90 degrees.

    • Like 1