builtright3

I could be wrong but I believe the plans have to be approved by the city for each property individually. That means that you would have to sign and stamp the plans for each individual address that it goes to. If it is basically the same layout and they are using several then you should get paid for each plan you sign off on. You and/or the engineer. If they are repeats just figure a reduced amount if you want but remember that you are still liable for the structure so that is worth a good amount. If that structure fails they will be knocking down your door. I don't think I would give them too good of a deal. I have never been in this situation before. Interested to here other comments.

Your fine don't get discouraged because of a negative comment. Sometime it gets a little frustrating for the people that are trying to help. Their are a lot of good people here that put a lot of time into helping others. Blessings

The lowest dollar amount out here in CA for a designer is 50 per hour (that I know of) but I think most figure around 75. Licensed architects are 125 plus I think. I know I'm cheap but I'm not only the designer I'm the builder so its worth it for me to do my own plans at a bargain so I have better control over when they get done and its a good selling point to take a job from plans all the way to finish.

It kind of funny when someone post a question and then you never hear from them again after several replies are going back and forth.

Perry, Once you put the beam in can you rotate it in the section to get what Bill is doing? Not that you need to do that but was curious if you ever tried it. You would the one that showed me how to edit in section views.

Bill, I do it the same as you have it here in your section. But I don't try to get it in the framing because we don't need to see the purlins in 3D so its just as easy to draw the purlins with bracing into the section.

Was this the first time you tried the 3D on this computer or has it worked before? The reason for me asking is I have two video cards on my computer and if its not set to the right one I have the same problem.

I have a great paint brush holder! Its the guy down the street standing on the corner. But it can be pretty exhausting watching him during half time! :lol:

I don't want to post the plan because someone might steel all my great ideas and sell them and then I might loose $$$ because of it! Ha Ha Like I'm Joe the Great or something. Just kidding. You solved my problem! Thank you! The reason the wall would not change to invisible is because I set my interior and exterior walls on there own layers so it wasn't the normal wall layer. Seeing how I only change interior wall to indivisible at times I will put my interior walls on the normal wall layer.

I'm not pressed to find these answers right now. I appreciate the feed back. I thought this might be a fairly simple answer but apparently not. I will search the forum and the internet later this week and see what I can find. Thanks guys

I really appreciate the video. Most of my jobs are on fairly level ground and the grade in the foundation area is typically about 12" (give or take) lower that the outside grade so your method wont work for me. However I'm now wondering if the grade inside the foundation area can be different than the rest of the grade around the house. If not maybe CA can add that as we have spoken in earlier post.

Ok, so I get no locate. But why is there a layer with a color and a line for it?

I put a number one line weight on a cade line with another one next to it in grey (one line grey and one line black) and it printed out one in grey and one in black. Then I unchecked "print in color" and they both printed in black. So its all working with me and im running X7

This sound like a dumb blonde but here my question; If I draw a wall and then check the invisible box in the dbx it used to change to an invisible wall with a dashed line. With X7 it doesn't do that anymore. The layer doesn't even change. Does anyone know why they even have the invisible check box anymore or am I doing something wrong? I just don't get the whole invisible wall thing anymore and I don't understand the "no locate" (what it is) and why it has a layer. What does it locate and how can you see it? Where is it and what is it and how can you locate it if you don't know what your looking for? Cant find any information that explains it. :wacko:

When I have an invisible wall and I want to put a regular wall or half wall through it I notice it brakes the wall up or stops and starts each side of the invisible wall. Do I have any options with that? Is there an ignore wall easy button or pass thru wall check box or something?

Any wood (post or sill plate) has to be at least 8" above grade by code requirements. There are other rule's to follows if there is a concrete slab around it and you have good drainage. Does that answer your question?

Chief has come a long way with framing. The tuff part is getting all the setting right in the dbx's.

Thank you! I will take that as a compliment. Soooo much to learn Just send me the royalty check! What's 50% of "0"?

That's the problem. I have a hard time remembering how I do things.

Here is my video to show you guys my method. Thanks to our team effort. http://screencast.com/t/5DEwiGV7p3j1

The terrain is set for elevation around the outside of the building. What I am talking about is what's on the inside of the foundation walls or room. I think you are miss understanding what I am trying to do here. The grade within the foundation room is what I am trying to control independent of the terrain. Perry, do you agree?

If you can choose between having the slab floor or a grade line that would be good.

I'm with you on this foundation dbx. I think I get it all figured out and something else comes up to confuse me. But you and Glenn have both helped me to better under stand it. I think the biggest thing is understanding what floor you need to be on when you are making changes. Also understanding where you need to be making changes to what I call now "The Big Three" (floor, foundation & framing) in your defaults. Another think that is confusing at time is in the "Room Specification" dbx under the floor section. The three items in the attached picture. With that said, all these things have to work together and has to be done in a certain sequence or it wont work. Too much for my little pea brain to remember so I might have to start writing things down,

I was assuming when you first posted that maybe you were coming up with some genius technique to do something with joist to help manipulate the framing for better use for beams or something. But then it sort of went know where. My expectations of your work is very high so I felt a little let down But your still one of my hero's in the forum

Thank you Jon that did the trick. And thank you Joe for the nice shower building demonstration you did. This is the result.