builtright3

This is a nice one, I love it. Thank you

Thank you thats great. I showed it to my customer and she loved it. Home depot has several styles to pick from

I have one of these in my family room. I love it! But mine has doors in the front so you dont have to open the top to get inside. Its great when I want a table to do personal study time or sometime I eat at it. Very handy. Also a great place for a blanket and pillow when Im in the dog house Just kidding, I dont have that problem with my wife.

Up for a challange I would pay for someone to create this for me. Unless it already exist somewhere. Wood Coffee Table with Lift Top and Hidden Storage Compartment. This would be perfect for these ADU's im designing becasue most of them are tight spaces.

I did the fixed door and placed the dotted line where I wanted it. It was the easiest solution for now. This is rare that I would need this type of door in a drawing.

Thank you!

I dont care if I cant see the dashed line. Good idea, I will try other types of doors so I can get rid of the dashed line.

Hey Guy's, Does anyone know where I can find a single-panel, tilt-up garage door? It should look like this as the symbol or not have the dashed line at all. Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you, Rene, I'm not always good at articulating what I’m trying to say.

I’m not always required to have a surveyor because the boundaries are pretty clear on most lots but sometimes on larger projects or lots were the boundaries aren’t clear. Thanks for your input!

Yes you would think that the city would regulate this before you get a permit but the simple fact is that some cities do not and do not take liability. The reason all of this came up with me is that I was told by an Edison planner that they have had over 100 lawsuits in the La Area just over the last year. I’m not typically asked to show the easement information on my plan but now they are asking. I have not had to deal with this in my 34 years of business because I have mainly drawn and built room additions. Now that I have been building ADU’s a lot has changed for me. I’m putting this out there to possibly help others that are in my situation. Not all contractors that draw their own plans are aware.

Any other input or questions from others on this subject may be helpful to each other. I think it is a good topic to open up for discussion.

Yes, I use those maps all the time. What I have learned is that as architects, designers and builders we need to show absolute proof that we are not building over an easement. With these new ADU guidelines we can build up to 4 feet from the property line in the back and sides of the property but what is being over looked is that Edison easements are typically in the back of the property and depending on where the pole is located the setback is usually 4,5 or 6 feet from the back property line. We are opening ourselves up for future lawsuits if we don’t have documentation of where these easements are. Yesterday I contacted a Title company that I will be using on all future jobs where this could possibly be an issue. From what I have learned that getting a PRELIMINARY REPORT from a title company is your most accurate way of getting the information needed. I have a current property now that the city will allow me to build 4’ feet to the property line but Edison has a 6 foot easement. The cities are not regulating this, it is up to the homeowner, builder and architect. This could be a big problem for me down the road if I were to build over their easement.

Hey Guy's, I was trying to figure out the best way I can verify utility easements for the properties that I’m drawing plans for and building on. I would usually tell the owners to get me the tile /deed for the property and also go to the county clerk’s office but I’m told that is not always accurate. I’m also being told that the best way is to get a preliminary report from a title company but that takes a little time and is very expensive. I’m working in California. Does anyone have any suggestions for me?

Thank you guy's for your help. This problem has been solved.

This is NOT new construction. I don’t know if I made it clear that we are going over an existing structure. We are removing the old roof structure (sheeting and rafters) and leaving the existing ceiling joist. Instead of a 3:12 pitch we are doing a 5:12 pitch becasue he wants more attic space and insulation. I only wanted to install trusses because I thought it would be easier structurally but now, I’m not sure. If the owner wants more attic space to move around in for whatever reason, then I can open it more with conventional framing, but this will mean doing a ridge beam with larger rafters for the long span. This is one of those situations where the owner wants certain things that make everything unconventional and difficult. It increases the cost but if he is willing to pay I will figure it out for him.

Yes, I saw the video, but it is not what I’m trying to do. I understand that I could have used a heal but then the framing would not have worked out the way I wanted it. I used the second floor for these reasons: 1) We don’t want to disturb any of the existing ceiling joist, plaster, electrical or plumbing. 2) With the second floor it gives us another set of joist over the top with an air cap for the new roof framing and larger cavity for the insulation. 3) I also needed the height for those boxed in eaves. I am now thinking I may want to stay with conventional farming.

This would just be to make space for the HVAC system (FAU). Its not for a room.

Hey Guy's, I get this warning when I try to make and attic truss and Im not sure how to fix it. I made a second floor with a ceiling hieght at 4 1/2" high so the framing will come out the way the we want it. He is doing these 4 foot eaves with a soffit returning back to the wall and so I needed more height. Everything looks good in my section but we also want an attic truss. If anyone can help me figure this out I would much appreciate it.

Yes, that was what I was looking for. Not sure why I didnt see it when I was looking. Thank You

Yes, it worked very easy to copy from one plan to the other. Thank you for your help.

I was thinking of that after I sent out the my question. I thought if I copy and past it to hold in place from my Asbuilt to my New Plan. Wasnt sure if that would work. Wont hurt to try it.

I would like to change the existing roof of this house to a higher pitch and make it a gable without it affecting the lattice cover roof plane that I created. What would be the best way to do this? I would typically delete the main house roof plane and rebuild manually because I know the automatic roof plane would wipe out the old. Is there a way to protect the lattice cover and still use the automatic roof planes?

Im thinking the plan file im looking for is just not there. I found layout files but the plan files that were attached I cant find anywhere in my computer. Not sure how plan files got deleted but the layout files are still there.

Hello Guy's and Gal's, If I know that one of my drawings were drawn in Version X4 and I know longer have it installed in my computer, would I not be able to see the file at all? Would I have to reinstall X4, for the file to even appear? I hope what im saying make sence.