Richard_Morrison

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Everything posted by Richard_Morrison

  1. For a homeowner, say, these prices are quite high. For a professional, they are a bargain. If I can double my output (and income) -- which may actually be a low estimate -- spending $3,000, rather than hiring employees, is a bargain. I know an architect nearby who does maybe 60 projects a year by himself using Chief Architect. If he charges only $3,000/project (and he usually charges more), he is making $180,000 for an investment of only $3,000 in Chief Architect software. I can assure you that he does not care how Chief Architect spends his money.
  2. https://www.theverge.com/2016/12/9/13903878/google-chrome-block-flash-html5 This will likely be a limited shelf life. (Adobe is completely ending support for Flash in 2020.) I certainly wouldn't base a business on deprecated software.
  3. This probably is because you have one of the few browsers that support it. https://www.lifewire.com/play-flash-on-ipad-1994160 The fact is that many people who are surfing the net are doing so on their iPhones or iPads, and if your website is based on Flash, then you are blocking a significant percentage of people from seeing it. Why would you do that?
  4. Flash doesn't work at all with Apple iOS. Dave, you should get Flash out of your life right away.
  5. They go from the corner of the kitchen pop-out (a few feet to the right of the outswing door, to the small dashed rectangle. If you drag-select, you'll get them.
  6. There is a skinny little demo'd wall to the left of the ovens, which overlaps onto the green fill. Delete that, and everything seems to be okay -- at least for me. However, I should mention that you also have some weirdness with multiple invisible walls on the left side of the kitchen. EDIT: I spoke too soon. The slow behavior is back. You seem to have two sets of stairs, one on top of another, too. So, I dunno....
  7. You can also export wall fills as a separate .DAT file to a central folder and import it for each plan.
  8. The short answer is a polyline solid drawn in an elevation view. Then probably you'll have to move it into place in the plan view.
  9. Yes, open a CAD Detail window in Layout first. Import the DWG. Then copy/paste onto the Layout page.
  10. This easily can happen when your advanced line weights are set with an incorrect unit. Earlier version line weights were set with scaling set to 1/600 INCH. Then it was changed to 1/100 MILLIMETER, but with heavier line weights assigned to the layers, to match industry standards. This really should not be printer-specific.
  11. No, there isn't. You will need to ask for DWGs. EDIT: I've used both Chief and ArchiCAD for about 20 years each, and go back and forth between the two all the time. It's kind of sad to give someone correct information and get downvoted for it. Reminds me of Jack Nicholson: "You can't handle the truth!"
  12. When you send a view to Layout, you should send with "Use Layout Line Scaling" and make sure that the scale selected matches your intended final scale. You can change Layout Line Scaling later by using the "Rescale Layout View" tool.
  13. Try using the "Full Camera" rather than the "Floor Camera." Attic walls are on a different floor and won't show up with the floor camera. (Unless you are taking a camera view in the attic.)
  14. And if that doesn't work because some rooms don't have a default ceiling height, there is the "Match Properties" tool.
  15. Ed, I'd encourage you to use a solid color background rather than the sky with clouds. While this is probably insignificant to you, I think there is an element of, well, "creepiness" for your clients in having their house floating and rotating in the sky that is probably quite distracting for some.
  16. Why not just use the materials list tool and get everything in an instant? If you really need perimeter lengths, you could take the baseboard number and divide by two.
  17. I have never understood, though, why different subsection LOOK like they should be able to have separate widths, but for some reason the widths are locked together as the same width. (Unless you put in an intervening landing.)
  18. Glenn's comment is a good reminder that there are existing tools that we forget about, maybe because we so seldom use them, that already do what we want a new proposed feature to do. However, sadly, this doesn't rotate the grid or let us use a new vertical or horizontal at the rotated angle.
  19. Just curious. Did Chief folks explicitly say this, or was this your conclusion?
  20. I think Graham's double stair probably is the most likely contender and very clever!
  21. I am hoping to see if there is any simple way that I have overlooked of doing paneled wainscotting that follows a stair with one wall curved. Essentially like the attached, although I'm dealing with an outside curve. Stairs R1 _ 2.pdf
  22. Michael, I use the plan footprint in a CAD Detail frequently so that the property lines can be entered directly from a boundary survey, and the house located accurately on the lot. Anything you are drawing in 3D outside of the plan can certainly be displayed in the "footprint view." So, things like driveways, terrains, etc. can be displayed in the CAD detail (in 2D, of course), you just can't dimension to them. However, you can certainly dimension them in the plan view, and the dimensions can be displayed in the CAD detail, so I guess I'm not totally clear what your dilemma is. There is no need to draw things twice.
  23. Any of you guys using hi DPI scaling or overall display scaling in Windows? I just discovered that resetting scaling to 100% from where it was set at 125% for my 4K monitor fixed the issue. Not happy with this solution, but may help tech support track things down.
  24. Where suggestions go to die....
  25. Presumably, this is a crawlspace addition in front of the existing garage slab. I would be VERY surprised to see an existing 28" deep existing garage footing for a 1955 slab in this geographic area. You will likely need to reinforce the existing footing where it gets undermined by the new crawlspace excavation. Also, keep in mind that if a garage slab, there is probably a slope to it, so floor joists will need to be ripped. This could mean a difference of an inch or two in the lumber size. Your anchor bolt design will likely either split the mudsill or spall the concrete. There are better systems for this situation; see the Simpson Strong-Tie catalog. I don't now how much addition you're talking about, but by the time you get done with all of the excavation and underpinning, and worrying about crawlspace venting and access, you may be be better off just extending the slab.