CJSpud

Try changing the line colors ... that is what I do. A light gray or ??? should work I would think.

You could try making the side porch walls as gable walls then F12 to rebuild if they don't fill in automatically.

Ken: Maybe the images below will help you sort this out if you don't want to post your plan: If not, please post the plan and you'll quickly find out what you are missing from someone here on the forum.

Here's a "full 2-story" garage section with floating slab and stem walls. The floor elevation is set 6" below the top of the stem walls in my example. If the roof is to bear at or near the 2nd story floor elevation, all I would need to do is move it down using transform/replicate.

You can also change the angles of the walls you draw in the General Plan Defaults. In the Allowed Angles portion of the dialog box, you can use either of Chief's two out-of-the-box angle options (7.5 or 15 degrees) or you can plug in up to eight additional personal allowed angles by entering their values in each of those input boxes. You'll need to have angle snaps on for any of these settings to work. When you are drawing walls, you can visually see what angle the wall is by looking in the task bar in the bottom center, where the wall length is also displayed. You can also see what angle a wall is by selecting the wall, opening its specification dbx and viewing the angle in the General Tab. You could also just select an already drawn wall and with the mouse cursor on a wall segment end handle, if you engage it like you are going to change the angle (but don't actually move it), the angle will show up in the task bar. Lastly, Chief has an angular dimension tool that you can use to determine the angle. Click on the Dimension Tool in the toolbar and the angular dimension tool is one of the options available. Hope that helps you.

Is it possible that you have a wall break in that wall and the missing part is designated as invisible? Sometimes walls can get corrupt and the easiest and quickest solution is to just delete them, select the perpendicular wall at the corner and drag the make wall handle down to re-establish your wall. If I have windows and doors I don't want to have to redo, I will temporarily place a new wall off to the side and copy any windows and doors into that wall so I can re-copy them back into my replaced wall.

Check in Layer Display Options and make sure all the framing layers are checked for display.

As you can see from Jintu's images, there are two areas where you have short horizontal valleys that need correcting for drainage.

I played around with your plan and cleaned up the roof for you. Not sure what you are trying to do with that porch on the rear so I just deleted those small roof planes and extended the 6:12 roof planes out over the rear porch. I will leave the finishing touches for that area for you to do. I am not sure about the great room roof being buildable the way I changed it ... I just cleaned up the roof to make it look pretty. question.zip

Urwin: What are the spec's for this roof plan suppose to be? For example, what overhangs are you looking for? Why do you have roof baselines flapping out in the breeze? They are suppose to be over the outer main layers of bearing walls. Do you understand that when you mix roof pitches without changing something else, that the fascia tops will be at different elevations. Simple geometry says they will be different. Not sure what you are trying to accomplish with the roof planes for the small rear porch. Is this roof going to be manually framed (parts/all) or trusses? If you want to call me in a couple of hours, I will try to talk you through some of the roof editing needed on your model. I don't think it will take too much work.

Yes, it comes in with a transparent fill .... but as long as the original, or the new copy of the light are selected, they temporarily show a fill ... once they are unselected, the fill goes away.

If they are actually floor or roof structures, just model them that way. If they are secondary structures you could use poly line solids. What do your floor and roof plans look like?

I just put a light in a plan from the tool bar. When I go to display options, the electrical label for the light has the default text style. When I click on Define > Edit and then put a check in that box, the light label text box has a transparent fill and if I uncheck the box again, I can see that it has a fill again. I have the grid on to see these changes. I would think that you would see the same behavior on your end.

The valve box we have in our laundry room has a single "lever" handle in the center that operates both valves. I don't know if that's good or bad but we've never had any issues with it.

Joe: This is what it looks like if you use the exterior wall option:

I found the one that Tommy Blair posted on the old forum some time ago. I was on my old computer's HD. T Blair Water Connection.calibz Thanks again Tommy.

Thanks Joe. I thought I might have one Tommy posted a couple of years ago but couldn't find. Now I am good to go. As a matter of fact, I am going to take that puppy and plop it into the laundry room of the project I have open. Sorry to hear your back is giving you some grief. Hope your problem goes away soon.

Glenn: You're the man. Worked perfectly. Thanks for figuring that out. It would be nice to have the option via the dbx to place hardware on the side panels. Also, I cannot get Chief to dimension to the right side outer corner, from the wall out to the corner. I think that is a bug that should be fixed.

George: Have you looked at all of Chief's "Custom" pattern folders. If not, you should check them out. There might already exist patterns that are close to what you need. In addition to the default pattern folder that are available when assigning a fill, there are 11 other custom pattern folders of various materials types that are accessible via. custom > browse. Below is a PDF that a fellow Chiefer (???) provided on the forum awhile back that shows the various patterns in those folders. I have printed a copy of this file and use it as a "cheat sheet" reference which is quicker than migrating through the folders to see what is there. Fill Hatch Patterns Cheat Sheets.pdf Here's a copy of a 2001 ChiefTalk thread with some info on doing patterns. Not sure if it will help you figure out how to make a pattern or not. Looks way too complicated for me ... I will make do with what's available and hope the Chief dudes will give us more as time goes on. 4-27-01_TimO-PatternFiles.pdf Here's a Joe Carrick thread from 2007 that has more information on the subject: Creating Fill_Hatch Patterns_JoeCarrick.pdf If I can find more info I've saved from old threads I will post it. Will probably have to go looking on my old computer to find more. If you haven't explored the custom fill folders yet, here's a few images on the subject: You can tweak the settings of your materials to get the pattern to display at different scales. Maybe you've already figured all that out.

Scott: I miss having T.O. on the forum ... definitely a genius. He's probably still plugging away with v10. Yes, G.W. is right up there with the best. Don't count yourself out either ... and for willingness to go the extra mile to help folks, I think you're #1 in many ways. Actually, there are quite a few users who post here that, when I see they have contributed to a thread, I like to go see what they said because I know their input is going to be on target and most likely their advice and/or offered solutions correct. There's a bunch of newer users who don't post often either that seem to have a great grasp of using Chief as well. By the way, that's a great tip on the toe kick. Here's my stab at the two-cabinet method and with an added panel on the right side, this time with a face-frame cabinet(s): Now to go do a front brake job on the Carol's car. Hasta.

Here's my take on what the OP has asked for. In the images below I used a corner base with a diagonal front and then adjusted the dimensions by dragging the diagonal front corners until I got it where I wanted it. Accidentally started with the cabinet as a frameless one and didn't notice that until later. Note that I have the doors with 3/8" reveal so to get the OP's 12" side door dimensions, I made those side dimensions 12-3/4" total. The diagonal door came out at about 17" wide as requested. The only problem I see with doing the cabinet this way is that you can only have a toe kick on the front (diagonal) side if it is a corner cabinet. I am not sure that that would have been the case if I had drug the original 36" x 36" corner base I started with out away from the corner and then made it an end cabinet before adjusting the dimensions. I just added door panels to the sides as shown. If the OP tries to drag the corner base out from the corner, change it to an end cabinet (if possible), then edit the dimensions, etc. as I did, maybe more toe kick will be available (if needed) than what I had available with the corner cabinet. It would be nice to be able to have the option within the cabinet specification dbx of including hardware (pulls) on the side panels, even if they are unoperable and the pulls are only for looks.

Joe: Great points ... I agree with your conclusions.

I think you are getting your cart a little bit ahead of the horse. You need to go check out the library and click on each category to see what is there. You can also type in what you are looking for in the search box and if it is there, Chief will give you all that fits the description. You'll probably get a bunch of stuff you don't need depending on what you type in the search box. Here's where the fixtures (plumbing) are found: Welcome to using Chief. You should just buy the program and get on board ... I think you'll like it. If not, you have a 30-day period to give it (the full Premier version) a good test drive. Just be prepared to put in lots of time to learn what's there. You'll learn best by doing it yourself. With the Premier purchase and SSA you'll have access all of Chief's videos. And don't forget to look through the Help Database articles ... lots of good stuff there as well.

Below are the results of a quick test. The text on the left had the box checked while the smaller text on the right had the box unchecked. Quite a difference in the text sizes. Thanks for pointing that out Glenn.

I think this is the setting Glenn is referring to: I haven't checked this setting out to see if I can detect any differences.