CharlesVolz

Revision1. This is a mouthful: Door and Window Label Offsets & Sides (affecting materials & hardware): CA’s convention of offsets in the X and Y directions should probably be "distance along wall" for X and "distance from wall" for Y since their positive direction is determined by the “start” to “end” direction of the wall. All walls, whether exterior or interior, have an interior and exterior side and follow CA’s convention of the exterior side being on the left as you travel from the start to the end of the wall. That is why exterior walls are drawn in a clockwise direction. This allows CA to orient the exterior cladding on the outside of the building and allows us to specify and manage different materials for each side’s surface. Reversing Layers of the wall also changes its direction from start to end. The Reverse Layers edit button “flips the orientation” (per CA) of the interior and exterior layers of a selected wall. It actually flips the walls in both directions (vertically and horizontally in plan view), which is the same as the wall rotating 180° (sans the doors and windows) which changes its direction from start to end. Its wall type definition is not affected by this change. Neither is the location, hinge, swing, opening direction, etc. of doors and windows in the wall. But the interior and exterior sides of doors and windows in the wall are exchanged which affects their materials and hardware sides and their label offsets.

i would clarify, this isnt the same, because if you had a door or window in the wall then that door or window would be in new location if you rotated the wall in place. also would clarify "Neither is the location, hinge, swing, opening direction, etc. of doors and windows in the wall. " handles it, but I will reorder/edit. Thx Rene! Charles

Yessir. Thx!

All good stuff! So much so that I added the following to my CA Tips which I wanted to share here: Door and Window Label Offsets & Sides (affecting materials & hardware): CA’s convention of offsets in the X and Y directions should probably be "distance along wall" for X and "distance from wall" for Y since their positive direction is determined by the “start” to “end” direction of the wall. All walls, whether exterior or interior, have an interior and exterior side and follow CA’s convention of the exterior side being on the left as you travel from the start to the end of the wall. That is why exterior walls are drawn in a clockwise direction. This allows CA to orient the exterior cladding on the outside of the building and allows us to specify and manage different materials for each side’s surface. Reversing Layers of the wall also changes its direction from start to end. The Reverse Layers edit button “flips the orientation” (per CA) of the interior and exterior layers of a selected wall. It actually flips the walls in both directions (vertically and horizontally), which is the same as rotating the wall 180° which changes its direction from start to end. Its wall type definition is not affected by this change. Neither is the location, hinge, swing, opening direction, etc. of doors and windows in the wall. But the interior and exterior sides of doors and windows in the wall are exchanged which affects their materials and hardware sides and their label offsets. EDITED! NEW VERSION BELOW! Feel free to pass on any edits. Best, Charles

Great tip Steve! I want what you were having when you discovered that one! Best, Charles

That room has two ceiling heights in different areas. It could be a wall alignment problem. Joe knows: Post the plan.

1. I assume by your question's wording that your reason for thinking of doing so is budgetary. not space constraints. 2. Like John said. You cannot achieve your goal by just proportionally reduce the size of cabinets, appliances and supply lines, plumbing fixtures and supply/waste/vent lines, doors, windows, wall thickness, hall widths, stair width and length, etc. due to the availability of items, the workability of others and safety and code requirements. 3. Furthermore, shrinking a floor plan does not save a proportional amount of cost as some people might think when they start the process. Kitchens, baths and laundries usually contain a majority of the more expensive items like cabinets, plumbing fixtures, appliances, countertops, lighting, electrical outlets, etc. So one would have to reduce those items and not just take floor space out of oversized living areas and bedrooms. Taking floor space out of large rooms is the least saving per square foot in cost. 4. Other items that can effect the cost, but usually minimally like reducing floor areas of large spaces, is reducing ceiling heights and roof pitches and overhangs. 5. Structural schemes can save money. Basically, columns are cheaper than beams. Shorter spans are cheaper than longer spans. Trusses, if easily available, can save money and time (more money) over stick-built roofs and floor platforms. 6. Materials for, and types of, cladding, millwork, doors, windows, cabinets, countertops, appliances, plumbing fixtures, etc. can make a significant cost difference. 7. The shape of the house determining the exterior's perimeter per the interior's area. 8. The foundations type and materials versus the soils, weather and terrain can make a difference in the cost. 9. The function of the home's layout may be studied to find wasted space that can be eliminated. Sometimes completing a programming chart where spaces are determined that they need to be "adjacent" to, "near", or "far" from every other space in the house will uncover a flaw in the layout that may affect efficiency. 10. I expect this process to require the owner to prioritize items, areas and spaces over others. These are just some items that come to mind after reading your question and thinking about it for a moment. I suggest a qualified designer take a holistic approach to reducing the cost as needed. Again, I am assuming that the cost is the problem, that the size directly. Another (partial) solution may be to build in phases. Like build a detached garage later. This is my least favorite solution because: A. It will cost more later due to inflation, but also because it is now a smaller different type of job. A small portion of a larger job benefits of the material costs, the speed and sophistication. B. Different companies and crews typically do garages vs houses and they usually cost more and are less attentive because it is a small job and less sophistication and size is required. C. Not building a portion when a big effort is made building the rest can mean that portion never gets built or becomes a negative drain on the owners caused by years of delay. Building a garage separately can be a headache. (Ask me how I know.) Best, Charles

Howdy Rob, I would love to help you. But I find it less than meaningful (and wasting both of our time) if you do not post the plan. Best, Charles

Add water...

A layout viewport has settings that were defined when you sent that view from plan to layout. More than one viewport can have those settings, or Plan View. You can manage those and save the different ones you need as Saved Plan Views. If you do not manage them, they will manage you. When you change a Plan View, that change is reflected in all view ports or Layout Boxes using those settings. When I help someone on a plan where they have a layout file linked to a plan, but no Save Plan Views, I just go to layout and open the camera views linked to the Layout Boxes. That gets me to the plan file with the same layers selected/unselected as the layout shows. That is a Plan View, but it is not being managed as a Saved Plan View.

Not a glitch at all. Powerful tools. Search Help or CA videos for "Linked View" and "Save Plan Views".

Here you go! Montana Cabin 1.001.zip

This is what I use. Numero Uno for residential. ANSI Z765-2021 - SQUARE FOOTAGE.pdf

This way may be easier to measure the existing stairs close enough in the field. I am still assuming that the stairs curve along a single arc as shown. It is using the Intersecting Chords Theorem which says that the product of the lengths of the segments of any two intersecting chords is equal. When you use perpendicular chords you can measure A, B & C close enough and calculate D and thus the radius of the existing stairs.

Sounds like to me you need the radius and the tangent (angle) somewhere along the curve (or arc). Just call me so we can chat.

If the existing is truly is a radius, i.e., is a single arc then do this, then measure from the center point to the staircase to get the radius. Once you have that, I usually draw CAD line in CA to snap to with the stairs.

Post your plan! Otherwise we are all guessing. Guesses: You did not apply that molding to the wall of your 3D view. You did not use black material for the reveal molding and white for the base molding. Best, Charles

The easiest way that I have found is to use room moldings. Easy to apply to a whole floor, a room and/or eliminate on walls as desired with CA's room molding control. I used the air gap material at first but prefer the look of just black color. Use moldings set 1/32 to 1/16 proud to inside of wall face to avoid 3D "Z-fighting".

You are welcome! Glad to help!

Yes, just add a second floor. Timber frame1259140725_Brook CV1.zip Sometimes I will add additional floors to control the bottom of the clerestory walls separately from the first floor. So, the clerestory walls will be on the 3rd floor. The 2nd floor would be used for any loft or attic storage above the first floor. Like this:

Hip roof: Shed roof:

Ariane, Here you go. Plan: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1128UHU2h8zHtCeqXsTDZGzCCT3a1A8Iw/view?usp=sharing Video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YBRvWFD_XWhCIS3UxGuZGEYmCh07bMxg/view?usp=sharing

Howdy Rob, I would use horizontal exposed structural beams across the opening and horizontal ceiling planes before and beyond. (If customer would let me,) I would like the look and feel much better. Best, Charles