CharlesVolz

Hey, hey, hey. I just saw this. Billy paid for 20 hours. I worked 12.6 hours. I terminated our agreement and refunded 7.4 hours. My agreement has the right to terminate by either party. I terminated (for reasons I will not air out here) and refunded the unused portion per our agreement. Fair and square. If anyone really cares, just call me. Best, Charles

Look at default sets.

Use 3D solids in elevation.

I put the terrain on Floor 0 or Floor 1, depending on the plan: basements, cantilevers, etc. Placing the terrain on Floor 0 prevents cantilevered building areas like boxed windows on Floor 1 from cutting a hole in the terrain. Then only your foundation walls will then influence the terrain cut out. Also, in CA the terrain is moved up and down as needed, not the floor elevations.

Always put everything in plans...if: You really want it to happen. You want it to happen a certain way. You don't want to pay for it (as a designer). I never want a subcontractor or their employees as a co-designer. Not just because they are probably not qualified, but because they usually have a conflict of interest. They may profit more by building less and building wrong. A detailed note may be sufficient, depending on what it is. It is probably not a small inexpensive detail, if you are talking about a rectangular channel drain with a grating cover, thickened slab, additional reinforcing, etc. Best, Charles

From CA X16 Help searching "scissor truss": Roof Truss Placement The shape of a roof truss is defined by the space between the roof above and flat ceiling platform or manually drawn Ceiling Plane ../../Resources/img/btn/customceiling.png below. . . If the bottom chords of trusses are defined by a sloped ceiling plane, a Scissor Truss will be created. See Scissors Trusses. If the program either does not find both roof planes and a ceiling, or if there is not enough room between them to model a truss, a warning message will report that this is the case if you position one at that location. The problem truss may still display in plan view with a label of the form “TR-*”. If it does, it should be either moved or deleted. See Editing Trusses.

It is always best to post the plan, since it could be several things. My top guesses since it is so consistent, are: 1. the “Build Platform to Exterior of Layer” setting in the Wall Type Definition DBX> Wall Properties being set to the exterior wall layer (instead of the Main Layer) which make no siding or exterior surface cover the floor platform, 2. the exterior wall layer set as a “Main Layer” in the Wall Type Definition DBX, 3. the exterior wall layer set as a “Framing” layer in the Wall Type Definition DBX, Try those first. Good luck, Charles

Create PDF and DWG and start over in X14. If you have a "finished" model and have to rebuild it in an earlier version of CA, export a DWG file and import that into the earlier version of CA to trace. Here is a rough step-by-step I put together for others. Using DWG Files to redraw model in an earlier version of Chief Architect.pdf

PTP aka post the plan

Why is that crazy? Indoor gyms, swimming pools, basketball courts, gun range...

Post the plan/symbol.

Exactly.

Use 2 roof planes. Curve the bottom one.

The ceiling outside of the room (walled area) is a soffit. Look at the settings in your roof plane.

1. 2. Add a wall on floor 3. 3. Connect flat roof to shed roof. Delete ridge from the flat roof. 4. Use a single roof plane for the shed roof and roof holes.

Did you get this figured out? All of the sudden I am having this problem. They changed the program in X16.

Howdy, I suggest you post your plan if you want someone to explain that behavior. Guesses: That is a post to beam railing wall. Walls moved in 3d. Ceiling ht changed. Remember that roof planes are built on top of wall plate/ceiling settings, not a wall that has been altered. And a wall will build to the default plate/ceiling ht unless it encounters an existing roof or ceiling plane.

Yeppers. You cannot bring the roof plane through part of a wall. A roof plane and its structure will only go to the outside surface of a wall. You can make the lower wall a party wall as mentioned. "Reset To Defaults" tool does work but you have to re-frame your walls or have auto-framing on or just open the wall DBX and close it.

Try this... I just turned on the Default Wall Heights for the adjacent wall and the attic wall above. If you want the lower wall brick to end at a lower height, make it a pony wall. Brunk3 CV1.zip

A 50" (which I have) is the very largest. I would recommend 45" to 48". My neck hurts if I look at the top menu too much. (Vertically stacked monitors is a bad idea.) I put my toolbars on the bottom and sides. I use an adjustable TV stand so that the bottom of the monitor is level with the top of my 3'x6' desk and the monitor is 3'+ away from me. 4k is great. But you have to adjust the text size. Refresh rates are not important since you are not watching movement like sports, but I recommend 60 Hz minimum. The lower refresh rate will save you money. TV Stand.pdf

You need to get your referenced plans fixed before you will know what window schedule to fix. Once you are dealing with the correct window schedule, you control what displays here:

Hang a platform. Four connection points, 2 adjacent trusses' top chords. No worries about overloading bottom chords. Less vibration and noise below. Better drainage slope on primary and secondary pan drains. Easier access.

Step 1. Post the plan.

Howdy Steve, Smart. Nice. Thanks for posting. Best, Charles