CharlesVolz

I show a measurement from the outside edge of the slab to the near main layer of plumbing wall, in two directions. So a plumber can easily locate the drain from there. This prevents a plumber from having to add several measurements on the jobsite, misreading where those measurements start and end, etc. Also, if the plumbing wall is drywall and gets changed to backerboard, thinset, tile, etc., your dimensions are still good. Symbols cannot be trusted to represent the actual product. Also, tubs and showers are placed up against the main (framing) layer of a wall. So the center of the exposed part is different than the symbol's center.

Engineers are licensed by each state. What state is the project in?

Try Googling T1-11 siding.

Most of my jobs are 100% LED. With the adjustable color and competitive cost, it is a no-brainer. Some geographical areas will probably have a rebate program due to the lower power consumption.

Suggestions: Share your plan. Make sure your layers are not locked. Share your plan. Charles

That is the slab (at the tip of your arrow). The 4" is the dimension for that (see the dimension line). Below that is the stem wall footing beyond. Zooming way in may help you. Best, Charles

Submit this to CA Chief Architect Support https://support.chiefarchitect.com/home

I have never seen cabs built together like that. I would separate the cabinet boxes. Talk to Mark, or a cabinet guy.

Use the Project Browser (Ctrl+I) and right click on the page, if you are not already. This makes it quicker to move from Edit Page Information for each page.

♬ Bad Boys Bad Boys Whacha Gonna Do ♬

How many???

Check out ChiefTutor.com

It is always good to help! (when my suggestion works) We were all beginners once upon a time and went through the frustrations of learning this sophisticated software. And, it is more difficult to learn every year with the added features and tools. Best, Charles

Simple: 1. Post the plan. 2. Rebuild your framing. 3. Post the plan.

Set up your roof defaults, draw the room exactly how you want it. Use CAD lines to snap walls or the Build> Wall> Polygon Shaped Room tool. Turn on roof autobuild setting. Note that manually building roofs like this is problematic as they do not snap together correctly.

Yes, in order to keep your fascia level (if that is your goal).

Roof or ceiling plane?

Since I am a cup of coffee short of starting my CA day: 1. Complete signature. 2. Post plan. 3. Read replies. Or, 1. Search help for Curved Roof Planes. 2. Search help for Boxed Eave [sic]. Later... I thought you were targeting this eaves.

2 B's or not 2 B's...

Interesting... After opening 3 or 4 tabs, I resort to the Project Browser to navigate.

99% chance of an easy fix...

I'm missing something here. Why is printing in gray scale not ok? Are you printing to PDF?

That is probably 30' from the OH door to the far edge of the drive, perpendicular to the OH door. Right Maxie?

Turning radius - Wikipedia.pdf