Renerabbitt

Personally I always start with automatic roofs. This means you will need to build out your rooms first and set your room elevations in order to properly auto-build the roof. There is a funny valley/gable detail here and I imagine it has to do with varying room elevations

A few problems in this file still to work out. Something to note for split level or multiple ceiling heights, make sure to get all of your construction assembly defaults set. Your roof planes were at a lower elevation than the room ceiling heights. Also instead of setting up pony wall assemblies, try and set your exterior wall at the room with the heigher ceiling height and in the wall DBX go to the roof tab and check "lower wall type if split by butting roof" and assign your interior wall to the drop down menu. Still some things to fix in this plan but maybe a good start? I deleted your sloped roof, I assumed a parapet, for the purpose of con docs you could leave it and specify the method for sloping(sister/wedge/shaving) Keep in mind the roof assembly was using 2x4's and your ceiling assembly is using 2x6 and the 2 are still at opposing elevations. STUDER.plan

is this a parapet roof at the clear story?

ahh, I misunderstood the problem. @tracer Just opened your plan file, quite a few problems here, trying to figure out what's going on...give a second

could try a point-to-point move or hold ctrl while dragging any object supersedes snaps in most cases

If you draw a wall or polyline simply drag the match-type/continuation diamond handle thing-a-majig and it will draw perpendicular to the first off angle

HAHA, nice, posted here and in original post as en edit: stair example.plan The end user will probably get missing texture warnings, I never use stock stuff

@Richard_Morrison For you! hope this helps Also @Alaskan_Son and @Kbird1

This has been brought up a few times and I just had a face-slapping moment...of-course there is a very easy way of doing this! Simply place a curved railing on top of your staircase. Go to the staircase dbx and at the "rail style" tab, scroll down to "build from" and check the box marked "Follow Stairs." Next, on the same tab under "Specify Railing" check "Panels." A very simple wainscot panel can be created by placing the "raised panel doors" cabinet door symbol into a plan and pulling a 3d view. In 3d go to the "Tools" menu and scroll down to the "Symbol" drop-down menu and select "create a symbol" Select the drop down menu and select "millwork" for your new symbol. This will add it to the user library as millwork, which can then be applied to your curved railing as a wainscotting. Go to the railing dbx and scroll to the "Newels/Balusters" tab and under "Panels" select from Library and find the millwork you just created. Make sure to set your newel spacing to something like 16" and your newel size to 0" Here is a simple result which took 5 minutes to create: plan file for reference: stair example.plan Thanks to @TheKitchenAbode for sparking the idea

Kbird and solver have this right. CA can be finicky at times with railings. You may make a change and all of a sudden the railings all go wonky. Sometimes it is worth the time and effort to turn your railing into a symbol when you've got it placed correctly. I've even made custom stacked railings into panels and added them to my library. If you are mainly doing custom decks it may be worth your time

Can't remember who it was, maybe DS Hall, but came up with a solution a while back where you set the garage to a typical room and then check unconditioned. Set you floor and stem wall heights etc and then set your walls to have a concrete pony wall. There is an option buried somewhere to have the exterior surface of the upper wall extend down past the lower wall when aligning on main layer outside, which completes the look. This way the slab continues through and you have a curb

posted this on your other thread. not zebrawood but still a high quality look alike: Zebrawood Flooring by Rabbitt.calibz

its not zebrawood but looks very close, give it a try: Zebrawood Flooring by Rabbitt.calibz

Just an FYI, though I like the niche method, it has all sorts of probs in PBR if I remember correctly, strange patterns show up or material properties all messed up

keep in mind exterior shots are the hardest to render efficiently. Almost all of my photo-realistic renderings are interior shots, because realistic exterior renderings are so time consuming.(they aren't worth the cost of making them look 100% real)

Hats off to you for diving in... I offer rendering services, which can be really hard to sell. Create a LOD(level-of-detail) tier structure. This gives you the flexibility to better adjust prices to meet a clients need. Finding quality textures is a must-have Level 1 can be a simple model with simple terrain and simple textures: Level 2 can include additional landscaping and better textures: Level 3 can includes neighboring structure, additional landscaping and hardscaping and environment effects: Level 4 can be superimposing structure in an existing exterior. Level 5 is modelled in CA and rendered externally

I wouldn't call it simple, but simplest I think would be material regions

Not sure I fully grasped the issue, just posing a "maybe" solution. Set a cad detail to "site 1" layer and set the layer to light grey...then create a "site 2" cad detail and send to layout using "site 1" as the reference layer. CA will lock the view together and you could use "site 1" for snapping. Not sure at all if that helps but just a thought. Another thought, when working in 3D rendering programs I often times right down and pin xyz coordinates. Inputting a point becomes quick work. There is a free program called "always-on-top" where I can force any program to remain on top of a working program. That way I can keep sticky notes on top of CA for quick reference when needed.

sorry for the late response, that didn't tag my name unfortunately. I was using a separate software for rendering. The shadow is from the trees behind the camera with an spherical HDR image lighting the scene.

I would love it if we could have snap points as a toggle-able toolbar button that changes the insertion point

As the title says, it's my experience that Rich Text inserts at its top right snap point. When filling forums or aligning new rich text it seems intuitive to enter and align at the bottom of a text box. Anyone know a way to accomplish this?

mind sharing your CD?

Did someone mention this was cali? no idea how they got away with so little shear(so many windows and doors per wall area) I'd guess that the deck framing members may be undersized for the cantilever or their are some connections we cant see. Anywho...super basic remodel plan-sets can easily take 20 hours like the ones attached:218-12-18-R0-LAUREL.pdf whereas DD and CD on split-level additions with performance calcs, cal-green, area analysis, vent calcs, window specs etc. can easily take 50-60 at times. Like this one: 218-12-11-R-1 BARNETT-N.pdf The guys that do volumes of plans day-in day-out have invested 100's of hours into perfecting their annotation and layer sets.; Which can save 10's of hours

20,000 faces per patch of lawn, no way chief can handle that...are you looking to produce a render? consider using methods laid out here: This method is how I do grass in renders such as this:

To be even more specific, I would like to center on the main layers exterior-side line