mark2457

How To Create Rafter Ties For Garage?

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Hi Guys

 

I'm designing a two car garage and I want to have rater ties at the top of the lower third of the roof (so walls would be 9ft high, ceiling would slope in at sides and then level off where rafters meet trusses). This is the first time I've used build framing (used for kitchen and bath design previously)

 

When I select build framing the roof is created, but the rafters (or probably ceiling joist) are perpendicular to the trusses and not parallel. So two questions really. How do i create rafter ties? How do I move them up from top plate?

 

Attached is screen shout of what I have so far

 

post-6034-0-49681000-1431816965_thumb.png

 

TIA

 

Mark

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your garage must be wider than it is deep for the auto framing to put the ceiling joists that way , so you will need to force the direction with a Joist direction line (under framing icon), run side to side.

 

one way to do the rest..... (took longer to write than do btw :) .....)

 

Then in the Garage Room DBX , turn off the Ceiling and rebuild the Roof  (and Framing if not Auto)

 

Then Turn off Auto Roof Rebuild if on ?

 

Then Open the Garage Room DBX again and Turn the ceiling back on and above that set the Height of the Rough Ceiling as desired ..eg 120" instead of 96.

 

Rebuild the Framing again if not on Auto and you should be done.

 

If you rebuild the Roof again for some reason , you need to do this again , so don't do it till the Roof is finalised.

 

PS   DBX  is forum shorthand for  Dialog Box

post-315-0-94343100-1431819269_thumb.jpg

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Also if you don't know it already you can do the stem wall around the perimeter of the garage also. If its going to have one. Just thought I would mention it. Refer back to Micks pictures to see what I'm talking about.

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Thanks guys

 

I figured it would be the joist direction, but always get one of these errors

 

 

"An end of this joist direction line is not within a ceiling or floor platform."
"An end of this joist direction line is over an open ceiling or floor which has no
joists."
 
 
My current view is the plan of the first floor. I've tried drawing the line inside the room (not extending as far as walls), to inner edge of top plate, to out edge of top plate, to outer edge of roof, beyond edges of roof. No matter what, I always get one of those messages. I read the online help and check the training videos, but couldn't find a solution. Can anyone explain what's causing these messages
 
It has drawn the joists in the correct direction (haven't got to setting height yet), but there are few issues (see attached)
 
post-6034-0-88592400-1431875077_thumb.png
 
The rafter appears to be notched into the truss (see red arrow). How do I specify that these should lap each other
 
The rafters are cut off at 90-degrees Yellow arrow). Normally, I would cut at same angle as the truss. Is there a way to specify this? 
 
Thanks 
 
mark

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Also if you don't know it already you can do the stem wall around the perimeter of the garage also. If its going to have one. Just thought I would mention it. Refer back to Micks pictures to see what I'm talking about.

 

Thanks for tip. Would like to know who to do that. Have a few other questions too

 

Below is the specs from the village:

 

  1. 5" concrete slab on 4" gravel/stone base
  2. Monolithic pour with 10"x20" perimeter grade beam all four sides
  3. Rebar: 2 continuous #4's top and bottom or 1 #5 in middle third of grade beam
  4. Siding 6" above grade, brick to be 4" above grade.
  5. 6 x 6 W 2.1xW2.1 wire mesh required
  6. Minimum 6 bag mix with 5-6% air.

Is the surface of the slab normally level with grade? If so, I guess the stem wall would be required to better stop water, etc. coming in. Or does the slab sit partially/wholly above grade?

 

How do i specify a stem wall. I have to use a monolithic slab (is a monolithic pour the same as a monolithic slab?), so the stem wall is disabled

 

For the perimeter grade beam (No 2) do I just specify that as the slab's footing. I assume 10" is width and 20" is depth

Thanks

 

Mark

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Thanks for tip. Would like to know who to do that. Have a few other questions too

 

Below is the specs from the village:

 

  1. 5" concrete slab on 4" gravel/stone base
  2. Monolithic pour with 10"x20" perimeter grade beam all four sides
  3. Rebar: 2 continuous #4's top and bottom or 1 #5 in middle third of grade beam
  4. Siding 6" above grade, brick to be 4" above grade.
  5. 6 x 6 W 2.1xW2.1 wire mesh required
  6. Minimum 6 bag mix with 5-6% air.

Is the surface of the slab normally level with grade? If so, I guess the stem wall would be required to better stop water, etc. coming in. Or does the slab sit partially/wholly above grade?

 

How do i specify a stem wall. I have to use a monolithic slab (is a monolithic pour the same as a monolithic slab?), so the stem wall is disabled

 

For the perimeter grade beam (No 2) do I just specify that as the slab's footing. I assume 10" is width and 20" is depth

Thanks

 

Mark

 

Typically I make the garage slab 1" above grade at the door opening and then make my driveway slab even with the garage slab again at the door opening.

post-2478-0-42514400-1431880729_thumb.png

post-2478-0-88869800-1431880740_thumb.png

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No sure why you are getting that message , usually if you keep the it inside the drywall you don't get it ..........post your plan if you have further issues so we can look at it as we will only be guessing otherwise. you may need to set a Framing reference line to get the Ceiling joists and Rafters to touch rather than intersect each other, however this roof will look different again if you plan to use Trusses and not Hand Cut it.

 

not usually a good idea to have the Slab at grade , too much chance or water runoff running under the door and inside, typically the slab, here at least, slopes 3" front to back to force water/snow to drain to the door off wet cars etc too. (probably not the case there if they are insisting on a monolithic Pour ( ie poured all at once) as the slope would be more difficult to do.)

 

What your Village calls a grade beam (common term is some areas)  is the footing and would typically be 10" thick X 20" wide here

 

M.

 

 

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OK.  I think I have the foundation and stem wall OK now. the garage is floating though and I'm not sure why. Images and project attached.

The framing vie also shows a double sill plate (or something like that)

 

post-6034-0-75632800-1431890721_thumb.png

 

post-6034-0-86997400-1431890725_thumb.png

 

post-6034-0-85673600-1431891066_thumb.png

Garage Doors and Windows.plan

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if you change the Header Measurement on the Framing DBX for 2x12 to 95" both garage doors will get 2x12 , you can't simulate the 1/2"ply in between but you could make the Headers 1 3/4" each same as An LVL or Microlam Beam.

 

Haven't looked at the plan yet.

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Some weirdness going on in your plan , but the 2x6 double bottom plate is there as you spec'd it in the Foundation defaults (sill) instead of a 2x4 to go with the 2x4 walls.

 

I see a concrete footing and wall in perspective view , but display options says there is no Foundation to display and in framing overview it is totally gone , you can make the floor slab show by checking the Floor surfaces display layer................

                                                                                              ok found it , you have Walls>Foundation Turned off in the Display options (along with the floor surface for the 3D view)

 

your Foundation wall is only 4" wide , typically a 8" foundation wall is required, but I thought you said the Pour had to be Monolithic?  do they mean a monolithic Slab on Grade (raft foundation) which doesn't usually require a Curb or do they still want a Curb? on the Slab as well.

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played around with your plan in 10 and fixed things up ,I think? but you'll need to check the specs as I don't know your real heights etc

 

did you by chance place your garage doors and windows etc BEFORE you made it a Garage Room  and built the foundation ? in older versions it is always good to build the walls>roof>foundation and get all the structure right ,then start Detailing....windows/doors/stairs etc.

 

M.

 

 

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played around with your plan in 10 and fixed things up ,I think? but you'll need to check the specs as I don't know your real heights etc

 

did you by chance place your garage doors and windows etc BEFORE you made it a Garage Room  and built the foundation ? in older versions it is always good to build the walls>roof>foundation and get all the structure right ,then start Detailing....windows/doors/stairs etc.

 

M.

 

attachicon.gifGarage Doors and Windows_V10_Pro.plan

Good job Mick,

I notice a lot of setting off in his plan and I just didn't have the time to fix it. He may want to try to go back to all the CA default settings and start fresh.

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Good job Mick,

I notice a lot of setting off in his plan and I just didn't have the time to fix it. He may want to try to go back to all the CA default settings and start fresh.

 

yep a bit Wacky :)  , I was almost going to give in and simply redraw it but should be close enough now to finish up.

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if you change the Header Measurement on the Framing DBX for 2x12 to 95" both garage doors will get 2x12 , you can't simulate the 1/2"ply in between but you could make the Headers 1 3/4" each same as An LVL or Microlam Beam.

 

Haven't looked at the plan yet.

 

Thanks Mick. Will give the a try

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played around with your plan in 10 and fixed things up ,I think? but you'll need to check the specs as I don't know your real heights etc

 

did you by chance place your garage doors and windows etc BEFORE you made it a Garage Room  and built the foundation ? in older versions it is always good to build the walls>roof>foundation and get all the structure right ,then start Detailing....windows/doors/stairs etc.

 

M.

 

attachicon.gifGarage Doors and Windows_V10_Pro.plan

 

Thanks Mick

 

Yes I did do doors and windows first. Thanks for tip. Will take a look at plan you attached this eve.

 

Thanks again

 

Mark

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Some weirdness going on in your plan , but the 2x6 double bottom plate is there as you spec'd it in the Foundation defaults (sill) instead of a 2x4 to go with the 2x4 walls.

 

I see a concrete footing and wall in perspective view , but display options says there is no Foundation to display and in framing overview it is totally gone , you can make the floor slab show by checking the Floor surfaces display layer................

                                                                                              ok found it , you have Walls>Foundation Turned off in the Display options (along with the floor surface for the 3D view)

 

your Foundation wall is only 4" wide , typically a 8" foundation wall is required, but I thought you said the Pour had to be Monolithic?  do they mean a monolithic Slab on Grade (raft foundation) which doesn't usually require a Curb or do they still want a Curb? on the Slab as well.

 

 

Thanks. Not sure how I ended up specing double bottom plate. I'll have to check with village once I close on property (few weeks). Village says following in it's requirements:

 

  1. 5" concrete slab on 4" gravel/stone base
  2. Monolithic pour with 10"x20" perimeter grade beam all four sides
  3. Siding 6" above grade, brick to be 4" above grade.

I was hoping to have the foundation wall to meet requirement no 3 above. If I don't/can't then I've either got to make the slab 4 1/2-inches above grade with a single bottom plate, or 3" above grade with a double bottom plate, or am I mis-interpreting something (highly probable)

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Usually I would use a treated 2x6 on the concrete/block and then build a 2x4 wall on that. SO in effect I would

have a double bottom plate. Haven't done one in a long time.

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Usually I would use a treated 2x6 on the concrete/block and then build a 2x4 wall on that. SO in effect I would

have a double bottom plate. Haven't done one in a long time.

 

Thanks Dennis!

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My two cents;

 

Double plate isn't necessary but a nice added feature if your going to drywall or you have to do blocking. If your budget is tight you can save 40 or 50 bucks by not putting it in. Also its a little more labor so I don't include the extra bottom plate unless the customer wants it. I work mostly for people with average to low incomes so I keep things tight as long as the quality doesn't drop two much.

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My two cents;

 

Double plate isn't necessary but a nice added feature if your going to drywall or you have to do blocking. If your budget is tight you can save 40 or 50 bucks by not putting it in. Also its a little more labor so I don't include the extra bottom plate unless the customer wants it. I work mostly for people with average to low incomes so I keep things tight as long as the quality doesn't drop two much.

 

Thanks Joey

 

More than happy to skip it and save on cash. But not sure how else to get siding 6" above grade (without a big gap :-))

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Double bottom plate on a block stem wall used to be a bug in the program, not sure if it still exists, but it can be fixed, I just forgot how. You may have to bring up a wall detail of each wall delete the bottom extra plate and use retain wall framing.

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Double bottom plate on a block stem wall used to be a bug in the program, not sure if it still exists, but it can be fixed, I just forgot how. You may have to bring up a wall detail of each wall delete the bottom extra plate and use retain wall framing.

 

Thanks Perry

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Thanks Joey

 

More than happy to skip it and save on cash. But not sure how else to get siding 6" above grade (without a big gap :-))

 

you would need a 8"-10"  Foundation wall above the Slab, since the slab should be 2 inches or so above the highest point of the Lane or Road  

 

Thanks. Not sure how I ended up specing double bottom plate.

 

You didn't .... its a bug I think as Perry said in old versions but you didn't change the bottom plate to 2x4 in the foundation defaults , do that and in the Build Framing DBX under Wall set the bottom plate no# to 0 (zero) , with the Bug you still should get the 1 show up.

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