HumbleChief Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 I need to frame the roof with 9 1/2" TJI's but want a 2 X 6 rafter tail to match existing construction. I was trying get Chief to 'notch' the TJI down to 2 x 6 but I'm guessing this won't happen from the experiments I've tried with different roof framing members. Usually Chief will take the sub-fascia measurement and apply it to the rafter tail and size it accordingly, leaving the main rafter at the specified size. It seems to only work with 'Lumber' and not 'I-joists'. I guess you would use a sistered on framing member if you wanted to change sizes and wouldn't cut an I-joist in the real world. Maybe Chief is that smart? I was trying to do a quick roof framing plan, but looks like will have to add sistered member manually which is what I was trying to avoid. Curious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 I would personally sister on a 2x10 with a notch/cut to your 2x6 tail so the dimensional lumber better connects with the top/bottom flange of the rafter members. For modeling, can't you just have the I-joist clipped at bearing wall and manually place the sister-ed lumber piece on each rafter? ... or will cheif not show to the fascia if the framing is a custom model piece? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneDavis Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Like this? I-Level is showing a few different ways to use sawn lumber tails, but this one gives the right look if one is doing them exposed. As for doing it in Chief, I would use solids placed on their own framing layer, or try drawing in sawn member rafters sistered alongside the i-joists. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HumbleChief Posted January 28, 2015 Author Share Posted January 28, 2015 I would personally sister on a 2x10 with a notch/cut to your 2x6 tail so the dimensional lumber better connects with the top/bottom flange of the rafter members. For modeling, can't you just have the I-joist clipped at bearing wall and manually place the sister-ed lumber piece on each rafter? ... or will cheif not show to the fascia if the framing is a custom model piece? Thanks Johnny, Will probably use the detail posted by Gene above but as far as modeling I think I worked it out with auto-framing with 9 1/2" TJI's which creates a fascia, though too large because apparently Chief won't trim to the sub-fascia using TJI's. Then I pulled each rafter/joist back to the bearing wall and manually placed the sistered rafter members which butt to the fascia which was now the proper (sub fascia measurement) size after the TJI had been moved back. That last bit pleasantly surprised me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HumbleChief Posted January 28, 2015 Author Share Posted January 28, 2015 Like this? I-Level is showing a few different ways to use sawn lumber tails, but this one gives the right look if one is doing them exposed. As for doing it in Chief, I would use solids placed on their own framing layer, or try drawing in sawn member rafters sistered alongside the i-joists. Thanks Gene, Will probably proceed exactly as you have suggested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
country Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 Larry I am really new to the program and use this detail (usually with 14" I-joists and 2x6 extensions) a lot. I am unclear how to put in the extension rafters and attach them to the fascia so all looks correct in section & elevation. Sounds like I may have to work on my framing layers more diligently.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HumbleChief Posted January 29, 2015 Author Share Posted January 29, 2015 Hi Sherry, Hope this vid helps. Not hard to get as far as I got and you could add more detail as needed. http://screencast.com/t/4fnW8C6ts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAWZILLA Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 I sometimes need to use 2 separate roof planes, one for the roof and one for the overhang/ eave. It does leave a line you have to remove in vector elevations Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HumbleChief Posted January 29, 2015 Author Share Posted January 29, 2015 that's a great idea Perry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAWZILLA Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 You can also get the framing from the eave roof plane and copy it to the main roof plane, then you don't need two roof planes. But I would do that last just in case there are changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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