Windows Look Like Crap!

[iggybro]

I've been using CA for several years now and several things frustrate the living heck out of me.  One of these things is the lack of control we have with windows.  The ability to create a window in CA so that it looks like it would in real life is a shame.  Has anybody else felt my frustration.  One would think, at the very least, that you could create a window that actually looks good in a perspective overview.  It is impossible to create a vinyl window with a painted or stained jam for example--maybe most of you just design rather than build, but I build what I design and being able to control the material of a window jam would be nice.  Don't you think?  My window frustration would somewhat go away if there was some ability to control the material of the interior frame separate from the material of the exterior frame.  Better yet, give us a "jam" option. Cant get a jam, so we are left with a frame because without a "frame" CA overlaps materials in a way that makes the materials shutter between the lumber material and the wall material.  Stupid!  Who has the money to buy a window with a frame--not my clients.  Come on CA--give us more control over our windows.  Maybe some of you CA gurus have figured out a work-around.  I'd love to hear what you do.

[scottharris]

What you can control for materials is the Sash and Trim for the interior and exterior.  Do you have an example of what you would like you can post?

[Joe_Carrick]

Scott, I think what he wants - and it makes sense - is to have a standard vinyl frame window (nail on variety) like the attached pics. It can be done with the dbx but it's a bit complicated to get all the settings right. Of course once it's done it can be made the default and saved in a template. It would be nice to have a check box that would do this type of window automatically.

[Larry_Sweeney]

I've been harping about better control for windows for years.-----Good luck! Have you ever seen an exterior sill with no slope? CA must have because that's the only way they make them. Oh, I know you can add your "own sill" on the exterior of the window, but it attaches to the outside bottom of the flat window frame alon. Also, when attaching a window stool to the inside, there should be an option to set the stool to the lower sash (double hung) instead the the bottom frame. There has been many discussions on windows (and  doors) over the years and as of yet very little has been done for a "do over". CA keeps talking about making an accurate 3D model. This is a big factor in the total picture for a good 3D model.

[Joe_Carrick]

Larry,

 

You can create a molding profile and put it in the library for the Window Sill.  Actually Chief provides 3 Window Sill profiles but they probably aren't the size you would want.  Creating your own is easy.

[ebdesign]

 

 

...you can add your "own sill" on the exterior of the window, but it attaches to the outside bottom of the flat window frame alon. Also, when attaching a window stool to the inside, there should be an option to set the stool to the lower sash (double hung) instead the the bottom frame.

 

What Larry said.

[Joe_Carrick]

BTW, you can also save any Window Configuration to the Library so that you don't have to recreate it again.  Then once place in a wall you can still change the type, size, arch, etc without losing other configuration parameters,

[MickeyToo]

Is there a way to get the side casings to sit properly on a sloped exterior sill? (see the gap in the attached pics)

[Bill_Emery]

I've given up hope of having any influence on. Chief windows;  they have actually gotten worse in recent versions.   It wouldn't be so bad if custom window symbols weren't so limiting.

 

 Window and door realism and precision is sadly lacking.

[MickeyToo]

What programs do a better job of modeling window information, especially manufacturer libraries?

[McQueen3D]

I can simulate vinyl windows fine. They show the wood jamb and sill and they appear to sit correctly at the outside face of the wall. Open the window dialog and set the following:

 

1. Casing -> Overlap Frame - set to 0" to -1/4" for reveal (either/both interior/exterior)

2. Sash - set all to 1 1/2" except Inset - set to 1/4"

3. Frame - set all Width to 1 1/2", Depth - set to 3 1/2", Inset - set to -1 1/2"

 

Now I will explain it.

 

1. When you shorten the frame (its default is wall-deep) you will need to adjust the reveal of the casing. By default it overlaps the frame but in reality you want it to reveal a smidgen of the actual jamb and sill.

2. The sash widths are set all around to approximate the average vinyl window. The inset determines how far into the frame the sash sits--giving them the appearance of sliding into the frame in 3D.

3. Setting the frame Widths matches the widths of the sash, but you can adjust either depending on the specifics of the windows you use. This gives you the "chunky frame" look vinyl windows are known for. Setting the depth to 2x the sash depth plus 1/2" gives you the 1/4" on either side of the window (the frame the sash appears to slide into). The last setting, Inset, is what places the window on the face of the wall as if it were attached by nailing fin, as in new construction. Otherwise you get a vinyl window screwed into the jamb, as in an old house retrofit.

 

For fixed windows, you may need to reduce the sash widths. Also remember to adjust your muntin bar widths to match the windows you use.