SpeleoWorm

Wall Materials Change Framing

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1 hour ago, Renerabbitt said:

I would stop using that tool for that purpose.

 

If you are referring to using the "Delete Surface" tool, I am not...I mentioned that it is much easier to select all of the walls in plan view and simply change their material to "Opening (no material)".  If you are saying that changing the material to "Opening (no material)" is bad, please explain.

 

1 hour ago, Renerabbitt said:

Assuming you mean it cuts the rim joist. I believe it cuts the plates for the purpose of creating the Wall Detail that can be viewed in your project browser or by selecting the tool in your Edit Toolbar. The added framing members would seem appropriate as you should need a nailer for a joint.

 

Yes, rim joist and top & bottom plates...none of which need to be cut if you are just changing the material on the wall as long as the same type of framing continues (see example plan in previous post).  They are not simply shown in the detail view...the smaller pieces are listed in the Schedules & Material List (see earlier post in this thread).

 

1 hour ago, Renerabbitt said:

WAY WAY faster to modify the framing than drawing a bunch of material regions.

 

That is not what I have found, but maybe you know of a fast way to adjust multiple pieces of framing for multiple walls quickly?  I can remove the material from the unfinished walls in plan view very quickly (for all walls at the same time), and for any surfaces that need to be changed to greenboard, Type X, etc. I can do that pretty quickly in doll house view (set the default and simply click once on all of the walls you need to change).  If I were to manually change all of the framing for the joists and plates involved I would have to open up a lot of separate views and adjust each piece individually, which in my opinion would take a lot longer.

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1 hour ago, SpeleoWorm said:

 

I mentioned "Angled Wall" because that is what it is listed under in the dialog box and the docs (see below), but regardless it is not the corners that are the issue, it is the framing in the middle of the wall (and under it) that is split up when you use different wall types.

 

image.thumb.png.d0984ae3f2d5136aac4bb88a94cea588.png  image.thumb.png.de32099f44e60dfdd14faa39e7272112.png

 

 

I see that it changed a little, but I am not sure it changed in the way that you think (i.e. the "California Corner")?  There were two U's on the bottom of your 1st screenshot, and two L's at the top...in the 2nd screenshot the U's moved to the left side and the L's moved to the right side, so it is the same framing just in a different orientation (see below).

 

In any case, it is the middle of the wall that is getting screwed up (see red circles in screenshot below).  I have added another example plan at the bottom if you want to check it out.

 

image.thumb.png.538cc258808a788b9ec7f031a31b1645.png  image.thumb.png.67199d7190a87e73de735b6547d16c36.png

 

Thanks for your help and suggestions, it is appreciated.  I think I have solved the issues by setting the unfinished walls' material to "Opening (no material)" and using the Material Region tool to change any other walls (i.e. greenboard, Type X, etc.) to a different set of layers.

 

 

Yes it in under Angled Walls , right or wrong I don't know, but I normally have it on in all plans myself, and no it is not a Setting for applying California Corners , that is just down to how Chief has programmed it due to it being common practice these days due to insulation requirements, and even then as Noted CA does not even frame each end the same.

Chief is never going to Frame it 100% correctly , especially since every framer has a different way to do it , and then there are Regional differences that those in Idaho are not even aware of eg putting headers under the Top Plates.

 

The red circles are as expected ...you have two different Walls there .... it is just how Chief works , and there is no point banging your head against a wall as it is not likely to change , you'll need to adapt to CA , as CA won't adapt to you. ( just some friendly advice as many have tried and failed to get CA to change their "ways" and become totally frustrated with the software , you need to Become one with the Force :))

 

M. 

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3 minutes ago, Kbird1 said:

you need to Become one with the Force :))

Like "YODA" :wub:

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2 hours ago, SpeleoWorm said:

Yes, rim joist and top & bottom plates...none of which need to be cut if you are just changing the material on the wall as long as the same type of framing continues (see example plan in previous post).  They are not simply shown in the detail view...the smaller pieces are listed in the Schedules & Material List (see earlier post in this thread).

 

4 hours ago, Renerabbitt said:

WAY WAY faster to modify the framing than drawing a bunch of material regions.

 

That is not what I have found, but maybe you know of a fast way to adjust multiple pieces of framing for multiple walls quickly?  I can remove the material from the unfinished walls in plan view very quickly (for all walls at the same time), and for any surfaces that need to be changed to greenboard, Type X, etc. I can do that pretty quickly in doll house view (set the default and simply click once on all of the walls you need to change).  If I were to manually change all of the framing for the joists and plates involved I would have to open up a lot of separate views and adjust each piece individually, which in my opinion would take a lot longer.

The WAY WAY faster was in reference to drawing a bunch of material regions after your surface deletion/hiding. That would take hours.

I can think of a handful of different ways for modifying framing members. I can frame an entire house using manual tools in less than an hour in most cases...not that I would want to, but it wouldn't be a problem. I don't have a marker on your skill sets or how many hours you have in the program to know what tools you are familiar with.

I think it would help the conversation and in guiding you to find out what region you are in and what level of granularity you are expected to provide in your region or to your contractors. It would also help to know your experience level and take a look at some example plans.(absolutely no insult meant by this, it is a necessary question I would ask anyone looking to employ me for training purposes for instance).
I personally draft upwards of 40 plans a year for individuals and firms all over the world, and each drafting standard is different.


I know a few drafters love to take on material take offs, but the majority would rather stay away from those tools all together. I personally don't carry the right insurance to cover me from a contract crew floating over milestones because I messed up a board foot.


If you are a design-build I would tell you that I would drop a wall schedule in and add the length column to your schedule, or run a macro and call out your own wallboard.I would rather approach it in those ways rather than go through what you are trying to do in the current version of this software.

Without the need for the material cut lists, the drafting methods that are standard in chief architect make a lot of sense for most regions. I might suggest exporting your material cut list to excel and then split out your different gyp boards in excel. Simple enough to do. For the amount of effort that I gather you've put in toward making an accurate material list, you could've just done it long hand and been hours further ahead in your draft set. As a marker, most CD's on a 2000 sq ft. 2 story house take from 20-30 hours for the majority of power users including prescriptive structural sheets...with some drafters getting down in the 5-10 hour range with the right templates and consistent project types.

 

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5 hours ago, Kbird1 said:

 

That has not been my finding but YMMV ? and it may not help in the specific example above ?

 

From the Help File: 

Select Horizontal Frame Thru to frame through the horizontal walls in plan view, butting vertical walls against them. If unchecked, walls that are vertical in plan view will frame through.

 

Framing is not the same either end you will notice , set either way though...

 

image.thumb.png.177c1d2656a1e1a8179190048392aa00.png image.thumb.png.7f87418e85cb0a9bc84bac6f7ad3af5d.png 

In this topic, I'm not sure exactly who actually has a question about this but I'll chime-in. The reason one gets a 4-piece corner is not because 'that's how Chief does it' but rather because the length of the wall has the corner positioned to overlap the location of the next stud. Adjust the length of the wall beyond the next stud in sequence and the corner framing will adjust to a typical 3-piece corner.

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