Cabinets At An Obtuse Angle Wall Intersection

[rlackore]

Is there a way to place cabinets in this corner, using CA's standard cabinet tools, so that I get a nice "pie slice" filler? I can't figure this out, and any help would be appreciated.

 

[Joe_Carrick]

There are a couple of different options:

 

1.  Place a 3/4" deep cabinet flush with the front of the other cabinets (make it 3.5" deep if you want a toe-kick) and use a custom countertop to fill the space.

2.  Create a couple of solids or a 3D Symbol (Furniture?) to fill the Space and again use a Custom Countertop.

 

This kind of cabinet has been requested many times, but chief hasn't provided the capability.

[rlackore]

Creating a shallow cabinet didn't occur to me. This method looks fine in elevation, but requires more work for plan and ortho. Thanks for the tips.

[lbuttery]

would a primitive geometric triangle shape work there ?

 

Lew

[rlackore]

would a primitive geometric triangle shape work there ?

 

Lew

 

Not as well as an automatic solution, which would give me a "pie slice" cabinet that would look correct in plan, elevation, and ortho. CA handles the situation reasonably well if I turn the corner with more cabinetry - but it can't build the condition correctly if I terminate the run at the corner.

[lbuttery]

Not as well as an automatic solution

 

Robert:

 

I agree

 

"workarounds" are like fish or house guests

after about 3 days (releases) they begin to "stink"

or become a PITA ....

 

Lew

[dshall]

There are a couple of different options:

 

1.  Place a 3/4" deep cabinet flush with the front of the other cabinets (make it 3.5" deep if you want a toe-kick) and use a custom countertop to fill the space.

2.  Create a couple of solids or a 3D Symbol (Furniture?) to fill the Space and again use a Custom Countertop.

 

This kind of cabinet has been requested many times, but chief hasn't provided the capability.

I agree with Joe.  You cannot do it with out a bit of  futzing around.  

 

I disagree with JC when it comes to toe kick.  I would still make cabinet 3/4" deep,  shorten height of cabinet the height of toe kick,  raise cabinet off floor height of toe kick,  eliminate toe kick,  make toe kick out of a solid.

[Joe_Carrick]

Robert,

 

Here's a Symbol you can use.  I didn't put any door or drawer fronts on it  You can add those if you need them.

 

Note:  The Symbol can be stretched and or sized to fit.

Angled Base Cabinet Filler.calibz

[Dennis_Gavin]

I think in "real life" you would use a false front cabinet anyhow.  Unless you get it custom made by a cabinet shop.

Kind of a waste of money because the final amount of usage would be minimal if any.

[Joe_Carrick]

I agree with Joe.  You cannot do it with out a bit of  futzing around.  

 

I disagree with JC when it comes to toe kick.  I would still make cabinet 3/4" deep,  shorten height of cabinet the height of toe kick,  raise cabinet off floor height of toe kick,  eliminate toe kick,  make toe kick out of a solid.

I agree with Scott on the Toe Kick.  In fact, I generally make all my cabinets sit on a separate Toe Kick - mainly because that way I can have a different material.  I usually just use a PSolid for this as a base for all the cabinets together.  In real life I build it using 2x4's as a platform.

[Bill_Emery]

I think that this may be what you're looking for, and without a lot of fuss; and it's adaptable to any angle. 

 

I do agree that chief should be able to do this automatically, and that cabinet custom cabinet symbols should be more versatile.

 

The face is simply a cabinet shrunk to a depth of 1/16", the body of the cabinet is simply a blank angle front cabinet turned 90 degrees.

 

You can block this and save it in your library; but always unblock it for final use, or the plan view won't be correct.

 

We see these quite often in commercial work.  You'll notice the 3" filler at the end.  We need that space to get a Euro hinge into the corner.

(Joe; that would never be a problem if we were using your Vista Hinge.)

[dshall]

Bill, I like what I see in plan view. Nice call on 1/16" deep cab.

Questions:

How did you build tie kick? Psolid?

What creates dashed Line for the angled cab at wall?

I assume this is custom countertop?

[Bill_Emery]

Hi Scott:

 

1.  Native toe kick  set to show on sides.

2.  That's just what shows for the angle front cabinet (turned 90 degrees).

3.  No custom countertop; we want to keep this easy.

 

1/16 " cabinet has no kick, is 32" high, and 4" above floor.  You could call it 30 1/2" with no counter to avoid z fighting.

 

There are a number pf variations of this, but the bottom line is that they are all easy, and display well in 2D and 3D.

 

I do hate it when I get sucked into these work arounds; but I gotta work with what I've got.

[dshall]

Hi Scott:

 

1.  Native toe kick  set to show on sides.

2.  That's just what shows for the angle front cabinet.

3.  No custom countertop; we want to keep this easy.

Yep, I see if now. Minor problem, toe kick does not show correctly on right side at wall.

So there are actually 2 cabs. You'd 1/16" deep cab and the angled front.

The 1/16" cab is actually in front of angled cab and the angled cab is actually 24"-1/16" = 23-15/16" wide.

[Bill_Emery]

Yep,

 

Although it's possible to correct the toe kick, I've never had it come up as an issue with an architect on review of a submittal.

[dshall]

I think I like everything about your solution except for toe kick and that can be solved with solid, thanks Bill.

[dshall]

Bill, how about angle cabinet 24"-3"=21" wide with a 3" deep front cabinet with no toe kick.

Would that solve toe kick issue......... But I bet that creates a countertop issue in plan view....... Just thinking.....

[Bill_Emery]

Hi Scott; 

 

There are a lot of possible variations to this; your solution would add a dashed line at the toe kick, and would reflect the reality of the actual squared cabinet end, and filler at the wall if using a Euro hinge.

 

The cabinet stockbilling and CNC work is done in another program, so the details in Chief don't have to be exact.

[Joe_Carrick]

OK, here's my solution to this problem.  The Cabinets are all done using Chief's Cabinet Tool.  The Base (Toe-Kick) is a "Slab".  The Doors and Drawer Fronts were not placed as separate symbols - this was all done totally within the Cabinet Dialog.

[rlackore]

Joe,

 

Can you share the plan file?

 

Thank you.

[Joe_Carrick]

Sure.  The trick is pretty simple:

 

1.  I used Angle Front Cabinets and set the Left Side to 1/16" Depth

2.  I set the Back to "Match Front"

3.  I rotated the Cabinet 180 degrees so the Back is now facing out.

 

Attached are the Plan and the Library containing the 2 cabinets.

Obtuse Angle Cabinets.zip

Cabinets - Obtuse Angle.calibz

[Bill_Emery]

Nice work Joe.

[dshall]

Sure.  The trick is pretty simple:

 

1.  I used Angle Front Cabinets and set the Left Side to 1/16" Depth

2.  I set the Back to "Match Front"

3.  I rotated the Cabinet 180 degrees so the Back is now facing out.

 

Attached are the Plan and the Library containing the 2 cabinets.

That my friend is almost pure genius......  great solution.  The only thing I might change is 1/16" left depth and and 24" right depth.....  but I am quibbling......

Nice job JC,  best solution I have ever seen.

[dshall]

You deserve a point for that one.

[Joe_Carrick]

Note:  You should open the Component List for these Cabinets and modify the Description - and maybe the Comments.