JonathanJanacek Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 Ok, so I've got two questions. 1. The attached pics are how we do a lot of decks here in NW Arkansas. However, I've been struggling to get CA to do something like this without having to manually draw everything. Any ideas out there? The pic "Handrail (cutaway).jjpg" is here so you can see the component pieces of this system. 2. How can I either move that beam to the end of the deck, or make the end rim joist double to act like a beam?? Is there a DBX I'm missing that allows you to change the distance the beam is from the end of the deck? Thanks in advance! Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopsaw Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 Unfortunately the beam would need to be edited manually and default chief beams and footings almost never work for me without editing. I have a custom panel railing in my library that is very similar to what you have drawn that might work for you. Do you face mount the newel posts when you do that or is it exactly as you have illustrated with a 2x4 vertical top rail and 48" pickets ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonathanJanacek Posted September 20, 2017 Author Share Posted September 20, 2017 I've drawn it exactly how we typically build it. The 4x4 posts are mounted inside of the rim joist. And just a small correction, our spindles we buy are precut to 42". Thanks for your help. I wish there was a little more default control of the support beam. Seems we can control just about everything else.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopsaw Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 Would you like me to draw a panel for you or are you familiar with that process ? And if the spindles are 42 then how high is the finished rail ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonathanJanacek Posted September 20, 2017 Author Share Posted September 20, 2017 I would love it if you could draw one. I've been searching CA Video's and haven't been able to find a "How to" yet. The handrail is 36" to the top of the rail. The 42" spindles lap over the rim joist and attach to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopsaw Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 Are the spindles 1 1/2 or 1 3/8 and is the spacing 4" ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonathanJanacek Posted September 20, 2017 Author Share Posted September 20, 2017 1 1/4" Spindles, and we typically do a 3.5" Spacing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopsaw Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 Sorry Jonathan, I think for now I am unable to match your exact configuration but enjoyed the challenge and actually tried and learned something brand new. I am presently working on some deck and stair suggestions for Dermot and will include your example if you don't mind. I will also post my railing panel and test plan for you to take a look at and anyone else that may have the skills to take it to the completion stage. I think I can achieve everything you need with standard tools except for the part that laps over the newel posts. If the newel spacing was always the same it might be possible but can't see a way to make it happen as is. Sorry to get your expectations up. JJJ Railing Picket.calibz JJJ Railing Test.plan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glennw Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 Jonathan, You can do this with one molding poly line. The corners can sometimes get a but screwed because of the fixed spacing of the pickets. All you need to do is draw your deck with only the posts and no railing. You can then draw the poly line and the complete rail will build with toprails, pickets, etc. I forgot to chamfer the bottom of the pickets, but you can get the idea. The moldings look like this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopsaw Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 Jonathan, This came up again in another thread so I took another look at the situation and was able to use the railing tools to create what I think is the correct configuration and cross section. However things start to fall apart when you come to the next newel post or a corner as Chief just does not seem to have the flexibility to do anything like this properly yet when it comes to railings. Getting closer though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNestor Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 On 9/20/2017 at 2:19 AM, Chopsaw said: Sorry Jonathan, I think for now I am unable to match your exact configuration but enjoyed the challenge and actually tried and learned something brand new. I am presently working on some deck and stair suggestions for Dermot and will include your example if you don't mind. I will also post my railing panel and test plan for you to take a look at and anyone else that may have the skills to take it to the completion stage. I think I can achieve everything you need with standard tools except for the part that laps over the newel posts. If the newel spacing was always the same it might be possible but can't see a way to make it happen as is. Sorry to get your expectations up. JJJ Railing Picket.calibz JJJ Railing Test.plan Chop... I've tried to recreate your "railing panel" in the attached...but, I'm not having any luck. How do you get the spindle to lock down below the deck and have only the top move when you change the height of the railing. Is the railing panel symbol created as "millwork"? I've moved the "Z" location like you did in your example...but, my entire railing panel moves up and down...the bottom is not locked as per your example. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopsaw Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 Hi Steve, Yes they are created as millwork. The one I posted was optimized for a 36" railing and I am not sure that I was able to actually lock the bottom but only extend it below the floor level by adjusting the "Z" offset. Just had a play with it and I think it is possible to do as you would like and lock the bottom by setting an accurate stretch plane. Thanks for asking the question. Here is a revised millwork symbol that should do the job. Adjustable Height Railing Picket.calibz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNestor Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 Chop...made a video to help explain what happens when I make a railing symbol. It does not stretch to meet the height of the railing wall. Wondering what I am doing wrong... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNestor Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 1 hour ago, Chopsaw said: Hi Steve, Yes they are created as millwork. The one I posted was optimized for a 36" railing and I am not sure that I was able to actually lock the bottom but only extend it below the floor level by adjusting the "Z" offset. Just had a play with it and I think it is possible to do as you would like and lock the bottom by setting an accurate stretch plane. Thanks for asking the question. Here is a revised millwork symbol that should do the job. Adjustable Height Railing Picket.calibz Chop...I know how to make the symbol but I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get it to stretch with the height of the railing wall. Here's a video that I hope explains my issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 Looks like that works nicely Chopsaw , I guess if you offset the 2x4 block the spacing doesn't work? I ask as the "block" shows in Vector view..... Steve, CS has a stretch plane on the Z axis at 31" and it seems to adjust to any height I've tried ( check his symbol above) M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopsaw Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 Yea it is really finickity. My symbol that I posted was a 42" picket so the 31" Z stretch plane was exactly at the bottom of the horizontal member. Not exactly sure why it works but give it a try and see if it can work with your configuration. Also love to know if the offset picket works out a both ends. Same theory works for the Newels if you want them to punch through the deck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopsaw Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 Sorry if my math seems a little confusing because it confuses me as well but it is: 42" Overall - 3.5" Rail - 7.5" Z Offset = 31" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 8 minutes ago, Chopsaw said: Same theory works for the Newels if you want them to punch through the deck. Hmmmm interesting info...... I made my own Alum. fascia mounted Newel Post (with mounting plate) and have been playing with it ...has anyone found a way to get two posts on a Corner yet ? typical of Alum. Rails ...or any rail if fascia mounted... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopsaw Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 1 minute ago, Kbird1 said: has anyone found a way to get two posts on a Corner yet Yes I believe so. It was not me but someone that I was helping out not long ago discovered it by accident. I will look..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNestor Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 Yes...it's the Z-Plane adjustments that fixes everything. Thanks Chop for the symbol and helping with my journey to understanding. So simple...yet so confusing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopsaw Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 Mick it was you who discovered it but at least I remembered the thread: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 Thanks CS, I had forgotten about Doug's Double wall method ( Deck built with invisible Walls and railing wall outside those walls ) and was only remembering the invisible Layer to force the Posts outside the Rim Joist , and each time I pulled the wall off the Corner I lost the Deck room ( and thus deck) and only remembered the old fudge with a room divider which is really finicky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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