MarkMc

You can't just make a cabinet like that in Chief. Easiest is to use a solid shown below. Can make that into an open box using boolean subtraction after making a second solid. (look in help) Can make an open front with using an angle front wall cabinet and converting to a symbol which you then rotate in the advanced options when making it. Could also make it with panels. IF you want a door need to make a custom door symbol and float it in. X13 plan attached. Please add a signature with version and hardware- instructions are posted around here somewhere. Angled options.zip

Just a hunch - did you measure your roof overhang from the brick? your overhang is set to 10" which Chief measures from the baseline. Usually I can only get a field measure for overhang from the exterior. Your exterior layers are 4 7/16" from the framing layer where the overhang is measured from. Setting the default ceiling height to 96, all rooms as default, using 2x6 rafters and adding 4 7/16" to the overhang default builds a roof with fascia at the height you started with and a 10" overhang to the brick.

Use A- # or whatever prefix you choose, it's # that is automatic.

Did not open PDF. If you mean between the roof sections? this was done with a Psolid, started with a detail from view and would then need verticals

I like to bring them into a fresh plan, always select advanced options and change all the materials to something native and the part of the object.

FWIW a 3070 on a laptop will be about like a 3060 on a desktop. Also not all laptop cards are equal, the voltage can vary from one brand to another of laptop and MAXQ will perform a version below. All that said I still run on my laptop with a (better than average though I've never messed with the voltage options) 2070S. It's a good bit slower than the 3070 on the desktop for RTRT but general work is not really all that noticeable. To me the speed difference with RTRT is only really a bother when adjusting settings. Once camera, lighting and materials are worked out I really don't care since it's still miles faster than CPU RT. Copying existing cameras and having light sets can help.

F1, layout, After you link to the file then Tools, layout, updated layout views, update all views. Sometimes you also need to select update all plot line views.

Interior lights don't show in PBR in X12, 13 or 14 or RTRT. Just the way it is, don't know why. To show lit interior from exterior you need to use It works with CPU RT but for PBR see Kbirds post below (I think I knew that once upon a time but well, CRS is getting worse .

Here's a quick take on it. Adjusted sun, background, ambient occlusion, turned down lights in dining area (BTW you have way to many lights too close together IRL ) Changed stainless on DW and drywall material to white, added a light behind the camera. Turned off Bloom. Check all settings for camera and rendering technique and lights. Did not replace the missing tile material. FWIW in the future if posting a plan and asking rendering questions it helps to include a camera and any odd materials. Second version not included in file increased brightness and exposure. These are just screen shots not exports. Should also change the ceiling material, would be better Adjusted rendering.zip

You speed it up a littlet using the object painter. X13 set as default will NOT change the default fill of Pline box, it Will change the fill of Pline solids. X14 set as default is not available for pline boxes but is available for 3D solid which replaced pline solid. Thing is that the object painter will paint the fill from a solid onto a pline box. So you can place a solid somewhere in template plan and use the object painter. IF that also works in elevations (as long as you can see the solid even though the solid still has the default concrete material in the view. Not what you want but might be helpful.

In your existing model delete the end walls you drew to get rid of the extensions and let the attic wall be generated. Well my take would be to start from scratch and use a normal height 1st floor, build a blank second floor. Set roof defaults to 20 pitch, ignore second floor, raise/ lower from ceiling to achieve the 48" side walls (i.e 109 room then -61) Build roof. Change attic wall from "no room definition" to having one. (Numbers vary depending on what you need but watch your head Add interior walls and railing to second floor stairs, ladder whatever as needed-(there should be an dotted line in plan to show you the limit of where they can go) For shed gable- Change roof default to do the gable- say a 4 pitch and I set to lower from 109 to 84 at the gable (-25) keep ignore second floor. Break the existing roof at two points where you want each gable. Pull the existing roof back, draw a roof plane in that space snapping to each side of the current roof you pulled back. Join roof planes as needed. Draw an exterior wall on one side, set to roof cuts wall at bottom, copy and reflect about the the shallow roof. Adjust the eave of the 4 pitch roof so that the new high shed wall finishes up.Adjust the opening in the 20 pitch roof or move the side walls if need be or - perspective and first floor below

I tried both of those floor overview and attic walls but did not get the result the OP posted. I have no idea why as there was not a saved camera in the plan.(hint)

They show here, and please change your signature to indicate X13

Besides Adobe you can insert links using Bluebeam Revu, TurgbPDF (which is a version of Foxit), PDFExchange pro. and likely several others. Some of those even allow you to bookmark the pages of your PDF based on "areas" like your page number label and page title with a about 4 clicks. More advance ones like current version of Blubeam (mine is older) will automatically make a table of contents from those page links and add that to the front of the document. Example Pages from Grandview-13.pdf

I'm guessing you're using X13 since you've been around since the fall? Please fill out your signature to make it easier to help. Cabinet, open object, box construction, no bottom. Then Front Side Back, change bottom separation to 1/8 and as an opening, Back-none. If you really want to tile inside the cabinets (I wouldn't) then you change the back to custom face so you can change the material Counter-convert to custom counter. Bar fridge -search your library or the online CA one for specific brands. These are some pretty basic things so to get a little further with this----While you are in the cabinet DBX hit the F1 key. It will bring up help with useful information for the panel you are on. At the top of the help pages there is a button that links to related videos.

Top is counter with molding on edge- bottom can be solid, cabinet, another counter...

Make them from cabinets, change the label and schedule they go in, add to library for re-use

I draw the building, then delete everything but the terrain to draw the second. That way I can reference the original for placement and easier to get height off terrain. In the case of the example there's a breezeway that connects the two which need adjusting in both the original addition and the garage. I always start at 0,0 for the corner of the building so never have an issue with Z fighting. I just find it easier than a symbol if only doing a few structures, never had to do a full development then I likely would go to symbols.

No, long time issue- need to make from 2 cabinets, easier in X13 or 14 BTW. The narrower cabinet has to either overlap the first one or use custom shelf symbols that don't resize. Did this on the fly ( faster than finding an old plan with one in 12) so not exactly up to snuff but you can get the idea.. corner cab.zip

two ways to do it- one is strip down the structure and make a symbol you place in the plan. The other (one I use) is to use reference displays that work for floor plans and 3D views easily enough. Not so simple for elevations which can be done in layout. Image on left shows plan view for garage with referenced plan in red for clarity you can change the reference layerset though, image on right is take in the garage plan with reference to the house with addition. Note that there are ways to manipulate type of view in the 3D, better in X14. At time I use glass house and standard or vector with glass house for instance to show additions.

Export image with Transparent Background checked- save as PNG. Import into layout-image on left is a quick no effort PBR, image on right is Clay with shadows on.

How depends on the condition and your not giving much to go on. (Note that what I said earlier about being controlled by the wall depends on a lot s not exactly accurate-it was for the plan that was posted where you asked) Follows plan with possible start just using default doors with adjustment in the DBX. Doors are going to be trickier than windows. Just takes some fiddling around. One on right is in a pony wall with lower section of wall thinner, right is just in a CMU wall. door in CMU.zip

Did you open the plan to see? Wall type determines the thickness. The one I posted above is just really fast way to do it. If you want to get extremely accurate with all the details in 3D, instead of just using a CAD detail, I posted a version that is done using the specs from the Seagram's building some time ago. The other search is for "curtain wall" Here is link to the Seagrams look alike facade along with some other ideas.

An alternate I thought of while on an errand is using the cad detail to generate 3d molding lines and Psolids. This will work both for wood grain and for doors with an edge profile alternate door under stair.zip

Joey's suggestion is the most direct- just a bunch of polyline solids. The alternatives are making custom door(s) which can be a bit daunting. There are some shortcuts to just building it and I just found one for making doors. Plan attached with assorted parts (sorry I don't do videos) Open things and play which is how I like to learn YMMV Easiest shortcut for look not for real cabinet -start with a wall cabinet with an angled front as on it's back near right hand stair, set angle to match stairs, convert to symbol fixture interior which you rotate while converting. Place that in plan under the stairs, adjust in elevation, To make the DOOR you then TR copy (transform replicate/copy) say 50"; elevation change to all layers off and turn on fixtures-shoot a detail from view. Restore layers You can now go to the detail from view and do some cad manipulation- copy paste back into elevation and convert to polylines-futz a bit more. If you need wood grain doors this gets to be far more complicated. An alternative for the door is shown on the floor to the left. The advantage here is if you need wood grain-see the cherry cabinet on the floor to get an idea. The disadvantage here is working out the math for the door to be absolutely correct (which I did not do) I think the easiest way to get the correct math would be with a detail from view (and some more futz) Convert to symbol. I show a cabinet using a door made that way but had to alter the width for the angle to be correct. Aside from floating a panel in for the blank side (EZ) You could use a custom panel for the side that is set with a locked height, or mess with manipulating the sides and back of the cabinet. I've attached a library with one done that way-still needs work but you can get the gist. The advantage here is you can quickly alter cabinet box proper for different conditions which makes the effort of (fixing this one) worthwhile as well as educational You would still need a specific door for various conditons-width and angle. Under stair cab.zip Alternate cabinet.calibz