DzinEye

The challenge (impossibility in Chief) for that design to stretch properly is that you will usually just want it to stretch in length, but stay the same height in any given installation... and for that design to stretch only in length uniformly the pieces would have to rotate as they get longer, which stretching alone can't do. Make a cad detail from view of the elevation with the railing set as just a top and lower rail, then in the cad detail set all your X's with 2-rectangles then copy hold position into your 3D view elevation and turn them all into P-solids. You might find it easiest to rotate/align the pieces correctly using Tranform/Replicate, and rotate about current point, in which you've made a current point at the endpoint of a properly located piece.

Thx for sharing this suggestion! I never considered that as a tool for problem solving... love it!

Here... you can have a heart instead of a gem. I'm fresh out of lucky clovers.

@builtright3 Well...one solution without manually doing anything to the offending wall; if you uncheck flat ceiling over the garage it'll go away. I guess if you really do need a flat ceiling, then you could do a manual one? ... oh.. forgot to mention that I continued the exterior wall all the way through to the back of the garage, then in that walls roof panel chose an interior wall type for wall split by butting roof.

I did a nice wine cellar like this about a year ago, and to make it look even nicer I put a bunch of wine bottles into the bins.... brought my computer to it's knees..or more like flat on it's back.

I get those frequently... and almost always in that same exact roof/wall scenario. I've found that it can be due to two different things... sometimes there's an attic wall showing through, and sometimes if you click on that front garage-door wall you'll see there's a skinny offshoot of the wall going up... and I have no idea what causes that to happen, but I get those a lot. Sometimes moving things around a bit will make it go away on it's own but more often than not I just pull the offending offshoot down manually.

Thanks for chiming in again there Dermot!.. I've never given the countertops a workout for anything other than countertops. Not bad. As for using a cabinet, I find there's just too many settings to play with ... but if I worked with them on a regular basis I'd probably be quicker with the manipulation.

The 'small wall' and the central 'column' are built the same, only the small wall has a vertical moulding to create visual separation from the rest of the wall. If it's important to you to model the bull-nose corners used on these areas, then I would suggest you use polyline solids to make these areas. Although it can be done with normal walls you still have to use moldings or p-solids to make the bullnose, so just easier to draw out the shape in plan view with bullnose corners. Make a copy of that outline and paste in place and convert to a molding polyline and select the molding style that most closely matches your photo...or combine a few. Then tab to select the original polyline you made and convert it to a solid and give the the proper height. In elevation or 3D view copy your base molding and move it up to the top of the column then open it's dbx and rotate the profile. Oh... and for that vertical molding on the 'small wall' just open a room elevation looking at that wall face on and draw a line where you want that vertical molding, then convert it into a molding polyline and again select the molding style you want.

I'd sometimes wondered if I was unique in doing that because my computer was too slow or something. Sometimes (can't figure out the trigger) you don't even have to update in order to print.

...and if you want to view your model the way Alaskan_Son is showing it there with the camera-facing walls invisible then in your camera dbx (dialogue-box) check the box as shown in the snip below.

Hmmm...I'm pretty sure you'd need to make a copy of the plan with the details in it, or a template, then copy and paste the model you already started into the new plan.

Sure. Just use the interior wall tool...but you need to have a fully enclosed 'room' in order for it to create a floor and ceiling.

I can use wider casing than that if I increase the windows rough openings... but of course that won't be the right window framing if you're using the framing and materials aspect. Two separate walls is really the way to go for this to work best for correct framing etc., as far as I can tell. Also although probably a bigger pain in the butt to actually frame than a single 2x12 wall, it's better to have two separate walls for energy and sound proofing reasons...so not really a bad thing?

@Alaskan_Son @dshall Ha ha... I have something else more urgent to work on at the moment but just couldn't let this sit without fussing with it! Scott.. I kind of dismissed what I saw in your 'fix' plan, because I saw z-fighting going on all around the outer stone where the window is recessed, so I thought the solution wasn't going to be satisfactory, but I put in my window and it worked just fine without the z-fighting, so I think this may do the trick for me. I just wonder now if having the outer framing pushed out of the 'main' layer is going to cause me other issues down the road that I don't yet see, portend by Michaels comment?... sigh... ah well... I guess I'll travel that road and find out.

Thanks Michael. I can't believe I didn't think of that... I suggest doing that all the time to people on here for various reasons. It didn't come to me for some reason in this case. I'll check out what it's doing/not doing by that approach per your additional comments. Going to check out Scott's advice now... Thank you Scott. It looks like the solution was essentially what Michael suggested, in moving the outer framing layers out of the 'main' layer in the wall definition... with some additional tweaking. It appears that there is yet some finagling to do to get it to look quite right though...if it's possible. That too may be what Michael was referring to. Either way... thanks for the info guys, I'll mess with it a bit more later today.

Sure... Double Wall.plan

Thanks for trying guys. Yep, I tried all those things and several other settings permutations, but nothing moves the window back to the inside wall so the inset is the full depth of the outer wall and it's stone veneer. It seems that building the wall from two separate walls is the only way to get the desired result.

Thanks Perry... ya, I'm familiar with that setting, but unless there's more to it that I'm not aware of, that cases out the full depth of the opening instead of with the exterior finish returning as I'd like...per the side by side pic attached.

I made single wall definition that has two framing layers, thus creating a double wall... and I would like to have the windows appear recessed on the exterior. The window DBX gives us the recessed ability by selecting 'enlarged' from the double wall options part of the casings panel. However, this only seems to work if the window is installed on the interior wall of a 2-part wall made by first drawing an interior wall, then putting in a window, then adding the exterior wall, as per the attached screenshot. Does anyone know if there's another way to do this when using a single wall definition?... essentially this means, how can I force the window to install on the interior side of the double wall?

To me the question is deeper than what is that strip of brown... It looks to me like you have a white painted pressure treated lumber with a sill plate below it. I don't think you're wanting to have white painted pressure treated lumber exposed there either are you? My guess is you'd rather have either the brick come all the way up to just under the porch finish, or the same shiplap siding you have on the rest of the house, no? The issue may be with the wall definition you used to create that 'room' if you want to see siding.

Can't answer about the roof, unless the foundation and wall are not aligned .. you'll need to attach the plan. For basement walls.. create a wall type for what you want, perhaps 2x4 with drywall on one side only and insulating foam to go against the foundation? Using that wall type draw your walls around the basement... space them a ways from the foundation at first, then after you've drawn them move them up to the foundation. Any window you put in will go through both walls. If you want, you can select all the new interior walls and in the structure tab of the wall dbx check the box for 'furred wall'. It's not mandatory, but perhaps good practice, there are a few small differences in how things work.

Oh yea... and if you're printing from a layout and you send as Plot Lines with color fill they should disappear too.. using Vector View. Not sure if Pattern Line or Edge Line defaults effects it... I use Pattern Line

I don't know why, but if you use a different rendering technique for your camera instead of Vector View those lines will go away.

The beam doesn't exist... and secondly that gable wall is either manual or you modified it from being an auto-attic wall, so now it won't auto-update. You could just manually pull it down at this point if you want to cover the gap, but I recommend re-doing things and letting it auto-build. The ext. wall type you're using isn't the wall type set for your exterior walls in the default settings. Change it to the type you're using so the auto-attic-walls will be the right type. In messing with your plan a bit you've done a lot of things that are probably not the best way to do them. Did you manually draw or modify your foundation..esp. at the porches?? I would recommend not manually doing anything to the foundation until you've got the plan sorted out and everything done auto as much as possible. You have 'rooms' under your porch slabs causing weird things to happen when messing with the porch walls. I recommend going to your foundation level and erasing at least everything where your porches are. Then on the plan level build the walls for this porch you're talking about (3 walls) and specify as open railing as you did previously, set height accordingly. Now calling that 'room' a porch the foundation will form on it's own. Then later tweak things if needed. Then you can draw a room divider wall the rest of the way across to create a room to become the rest of the porch.