robdyck

Some sample images with a very light weight; from Beta (before it worked correctly?!) I really liked the light weight. And as Rene pointed out, it makes a mess out of 3d plants.

From Help: Mitre Ends of Angle Walls Specify how wall corners that are not right angles are framed. 90° corners are not affected by these settings. Select Mitre Plate Ends to mitre the ends of the top and bottom plates. If unchecked, top and bottom plates will be butted together. Select Rotate End Studs to rotate the studs closest to mitre ends to the angle of the mitre. If unchecked, studs will remain perpendicular to the angle of the walls. Select Horizontal Frame Thru to frame through the horizontal walls in plan view, butting vertical walls against them. If unchecked, walls that are vertical in plan view will frame through.

None of my angle walls are showing mitered corners. I thought I'd check to see if it's working correctly for others before I send this to Tech Support.

You'll need to set a shallow frame depth (try 2-3" or so) in order to be able to recess the windows that much. And that refers to recessing the frame. Chief won't allow the sash to be inset more than 12".

That sounds like you just volunteered me without asking!

Try checking 'through wall' at start and end.

Build foundation will follow the default settings including the defaults for the garage room type. You should be able to specify a monolithic foundation for the garage in the garage room dbx and the foundation should build accordingly. It does for me. I often use 2 different foundation types quite often but for attached garages. I never build a detached garage in the same plan file as the house.

Here's some images I produced. I made a copy of the plan file, 1 for X12 and 1 for X13. In X13, the only change I made to the saved cameras was to turn off refraction and cap live samples. FWIW, I don't think it's reasonable to expect the same results with PBR in X13 as the rendering engine is different and it is designed to work with refraction. IOW, it ain't the same, so how can it be the same? Here's my results. X12 X13 X12 X13

Zip it up, or use dropbox or something similar. I've got a bit of time to take a look this morning...

I'd suggest using landings, starting on the left side of your staircase. Once you've drawn them out they can be copied and reflected to the opposite side of the stairwell. A bit of math and planning before you start with the actual landings will ensure that you don't need to make any adjustments. I find using landings (instead of actual winder stairs) is a bit easier for dimensional control to ensure code compliance, which varies significantly from one jurisdiction to another.

I've exported to several different file types. .3ds works better for me for importing into SketchUp.

Posting the plan. That would eliminate guessing.

You will need to experiment with different settings, including the sunlight direction, intensity and color. Make a only 1 or 2 changes at a time and take notes. For example, does reducing the sunlight intensity make the image darker or brighter? Make notes and continue to adjust. Does increasing the camera exposure or brightness help? Again, make your changes in small increments to see if there are improvements. It can be a process of baby steps.

Yes.

You certainly can have more than one wall covering.

9 hours? Yikes. Use room moldings for all the horizontal pieces. Use a wall covering for the white recessed portion of the panel. Use custom backsplashes for the vertical portions. It should take about 9 minutes

A molding will be cut by windows, just like a chair rail would. You can use a room molding for parts of the wainscot but you'll need a different technique for the panels.

2 Options: Make a custom material that can be saved for future editing and use. OR Use material regions for the individual pieces of siding. These can be individually painted at anytime using any material.

Edit your default foundation wall: If the floor platform inside of a brick ledge is hung on the foundation wall, Subflooring to Wall Interior must be checked in the Wall Specification dialog in order for a brick ledge to generate. See Structure Panel.

Interior elevation view: Window top at 95" above floor / Transom at 94.25" above floor

Yes, putting a transom window over a door is a real bugger. I'd suggest whenever possible, use a fixed door for transom windows or sidelights that will be mulled to a door. Keep in mind that when mulled, the interior casing will switch to window settings - overlap frame. This will then need to be set to a negative number to get the casing reveal.

Definitely a difference between the materials lsit and the walls components.

It covers the floor system at the bottom.

And how weird is this...that's exactly what I'm doing right now!