robdyck

And maybe a microwave shelf in the cabinet above. Just to get it off the counter and makes way for a Keurig or a Ninja blender...

Any fully loaded? I had plain pepperoni last week.

No such thing. Object Information Panel You should post a screenshot of one of your notes with the dbx open. Or the plan. You'll get timely and accurate help!

You just need to examine which fields you're entering text into, and ensure those fields are included in your schedule.

You'd have to build it the exact same way a carpenter would on site: piece by piece. By joining moldings, 3d moldings, railings (walls) and stairs, the desired effect can be accomplished. The techniques used would vary a bit depending on the stair layout and configuration, but the nice thing about 6 floors is that you'd only need to build it once, then replicate it for each floor. @Designer1 Could you post your stair configuration? Pictures or plan file.

Kevin, I've a feeling you're not in AutoCAD anymore!

@CoolHandLuke There are a few options for this. A shelf ceiling set a 109 1/8" will work. Main floor walls between the 9' & 10' ceilings will need to be adjusted to 'ballon through ceiling above' or dragged up manually. You could also add a layer to the ceiling structure on the 9' side.

@dskogg Can you post a plan?

Any known solution? This problem affect more than just walls. In the screenshot below, the newel posts, the clipped bottom of the timber truss, and the gable wall are all affected. The same shot after opening and closing the 'adjust sunlight' dbx.

A bit late in the day to be starting an old topic. What the heck is the deal with random wall lighting issues in PBR? I've tried every toggle and adjustment I can find but I can't get a couple of walls to display properly. It's clearly not a specific lighting issue because the problem is with a few walls. I recorded the PBR adjusting itself and somewhere along the way it gets it just right...but then just keeps on going. All I'd need is a slider tool so I could manually reverse / forward that process and then stop it where I'd like it. And while I was working on this I had an epiphany! I added a wallcovering to my offending walls, using the same material, and BOOM! They all play along now! This could possibly go in the 'tip and tricks' section.

the area of the window is already available in the window schedule. However if you're looking to display the areas as it pertains to ABC 9.10.15, I can tell you that the macro is far from simple. I bought mine from @Alaskan_Son and I could never have come up with it. I assume that is the reason you'd like a window schedule from one elevation only. Here's an elevation that shows a customized schedule based on macros.

They're complicated. Don't bother learning RUBY unless you literally have nothing to do for weeks or months. BUY them. You'll feel fantastic about your awesome decision making ability!!

https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/23685-area-tabulation-analysis-table/ Check out this topic. It gets to what you're talking about.

I'll add to this gripe. I was just getting ready to print my plan, and what do you know...flush eave stopped working on one roof plane! Proceed to hair pulling and cursing (but quietly so no one hears). I've lost track of the # of times I've had to manually build these eaves. Now I'm past frustration and anger. I'm just going to sit here and cry for a bit!

That's a good point Rene. The NECB is generally not applicable for houses and the last sentence of that quote is key. In my area, the building officials wouldn't be keen to even look at an alternative solution, and honestly, it wouldn't be cost effective either. Also, that 'competent person' has (locally) been deemed to be an Energy Advisor. I believe that is the general consensus across the country. My personal approach is to follow the prescriptive method, which isn't overly onerous in our climate zone, and involve an Energy advisor for performance calcs at a client's discretion.

Question Rene: did you need to get special training and/or certification to perform, submit energy performance calculations? In Canada, even though the software is free from the govt, a certified Energy Advisor only can submit performance calculations.

It's extremely easy to get that macro; send money to Joe or Michael using paypal! I screwed around for hours trying to figure out a way in Ruby. Then I contacted Michael and I had it in minutes! While I was able to keep working! I can't stress this enough Doug: When I saw the macro Michael had written, I realized instantly that I would never be able to figure it out. I'd probably be able to learn Egyptian hieroglyphics quicker! I felt like a genius when I paid a very reasonable bill to save me from all the metric conversions on every single plan I draw! Here's another example of a time saving macro Michael wrote for me: Elevation Markers in Metric that auto calculate. All the metric number are geodetic elevations and I don't need to calculate them anymore. I do one calculation only per plan and the rest are automatic! Life changing!

Just in case we're not having fun yet, In Canada, our wall areas would be calculated differently as it pertains to different sections of the code. For a glazing percentage that's related to the spread of fire, the wall area is calculated using the overall length of the wall, and the height from finished grade to uppermost ceiling. For the wall area relating to energy efficiency, the wall area is calculated as the sum of the interior surface areas of the wall.

Just curious Doug: is that how its being enforced in you area? Here, we're measuring to the uppermost ceiling, not the eaves even if they are lower than the ceiling. And of course, the eaves usually are lower than the ceiling. When this came into effect, there certainly was some confusion on this point. Code Quote: 1) The area of an exposing building face shall be a) taken as the exterior wall area facing in one direction on any side of a building, and b) calculated as i) the total area measured from the finished ground level to the uppermost ceiling,

Here's a few screenshots that sort of show how I'm handling this. For the allowed ratio, I'm still consulting my code book (no macro for that) once the structures' position on the lot is confirmed by the client. The green polylines are moved to the front for working, and once completed, I select them and move them to the back where they won't be seen (if you print in color like I do). If you're printing with no color, you'd need to make some other minor adjustments. The polylines are really fast to edit to match the window sizes, but of course they do need to be manually edited as windows change. But at least I'm not reaching for my calculator and toggling between 10 different windows to check the code compliance.

That's the extent of the control that I found. I changed the name. Would you agree that there's a fair bit of wasted space between rows? I'd like the sliders to control rows like there are for columns.

Tried that. Each unit fills it's allowable space better, but the wasted space remains the same.

There must be a way to alter or control the vertical spacing of schedules. I've included the exterior elevation view of windows in my schedule, and there's a lot of wasted space between each row. Does anyone know if that can be adjusted?

I hear you, and while I expressed my own opinion on solartubes, the intent was sort of to play devil's advocate; I find many clients haven't really thought it through but rather want them just because they saw another 'shiny object'. In my experience, homeowners often see only the 'pros' of a product but often overlook the 'cons', and so I tend to bring 'Negative Nelly' to the conversation in hopes that the end decision is well thought out. And budget is often a factor that clients building a home have a tough time sticking to. Locally, a velux solar tube costs $504 CAD (not installed), and the light fixture it would replace costs $16.00 plus bulbs - $4.00 (not installed). And I wouldn't make the same argument about skylights. I feel they're more of an 'architectural' element.

My own opinion: why not just buy a light fixture? Then, you can have light in the room at night as well! A solar tube will cost as much or more than the light fixture and all the electricity it will ever use (which you'll need anyway). Plus a light fixture can be placed on a dimmer giving you control of the amount of light. And in small rooms, where solar tubes are often desired (for some reason), a single light fixture keeps the ceiling uncluttered (which one gets centered in the room, the tube or the fixture?). Some folks may like the scattergun approach to littering a ceiling full of various fixtures. And a light fixture doesn't need to penetrate your building envelope or roof surface! They are only useful for bringing light into interior spaces in the daytime. Personally, I really enjoy a lit hallway or closet in the morning and evening, especially in the winter months!