VHampton

You're very welcome. It's folks like Steve however who deserve the credit for posting the how-to videos.

That's a line weight issue for sure. Chief often has a heavy default. Do a shift select on those dimensions strings which shouldn't be any greater than 16. This is a preference (of mine) in that I like them to be a tad less heavy so that they don't overwhelm the drawings - especially details. All of the default line weights can be changed by going to EDIT ----> Default Settings... ---->Dimensions Also... when in doubt, use this preview tool (in Layout). It'll show the "heaviness" of certain lines before printing.

Again, glad to be able to offer any insights. By the way... I completely agreed that solids are the key to making things happen with custom details. For basic functionality however (with regard to wall assembly and roofing) there's very likely an easy solution. The walls are "snapping" correctly, but they may have different thicknesses and main layers.

Glad to be of help. The rainbow tool (material selector) is the best way to see what's up. Especially when projectiles may present as UFO's. That tool will let you know if it's sheetrock OR if the roof is highlighting. Roof highlighting helps narrow down the troubleshooting as you had conveniently discovered. In instances when small flat sections of sheetrock appears, the first culprit can often be a ceiling surface - which is bleeding through because there's no roof to "contain" it. That's why first floor roofing needs to be tight to the wall - but not too tight or it'll block the siding from showing. On a side... the same thing affects roof trim. On second floor gables, the upper frieze boards won't always show up because the 1st floor roof isn't quite snug. Anyway, glad that you got it figured out. It's one of the many intricacies in working with manual roofing. Regarding this ----> Click on the wall. There appears to be a break going on somewhere. Try to drag the missing stucco up. Raw plywood should not be showing.

Hi Cailin, Choose a door... and as Joe said, the tools are all there. You're in the driver's seat to make the glass panel door any height, width, thickness, color, and shape that you like. Hope this helps. Kind regards - Val

Chief can make anything. No work-arounds required. Use a glass panel door. Set the frame thickness to the desired slenderness. Steel doors are often no more than a couple of inches. Change the material accordingly. (presumably to dark steel) Please post again in case any of this is unclear. Attached is an example....

Without downloading your plan file... 3 things present themselves as being the possible causes and/or the remedies. One of them could be the solution.

The line weights (in the layout viewport) probably need some refining. The defaults can be far too heavy. Edge Line Defaults should be less than the standard 18. Reduce to 16. Pattern Line Defaults work well anywhere between 7 to 10 and w/ a medium to dark grey line color. This should help. On a side... the shadow tool really helps give exterior elevations some depth.

Bob… looks really great. Is this one generated with a paid version?

Agreed... I noted the double TVs. The potted plant growing through the table as well. Ability to stick with the basic ingredients would be quite helpful. The rendering process wound up completely changing the single door too.

Thanks again for posting this thread today Bob. Learned a few pointers, including command prompts asking the rendering machine not to change anything too drastically. Really great stuff. As per Susan... renderings sell the project, and they're to be somewhat expected these days.

Thanks for sharing Bob. To your point, the programs have a tendency to make minor changes. I tried a room w/ a online software called Luw.ai In 30 seconds, it went from a very basic camera view to a fairly well resolved rendering, but with minor changes. For example... the steel garage door went from dark iron to wood. Still, this is fairly impressive. Perhaps paid versions allow more control? Perhaps Chief is already woking on a new feature?!

The threshold allows for the break ...and per Rich, so does a border. A wide border often enhances a space by creating an interesting picture frame. These are fairly minimalistic transitions (below). Often times you'll see herringbone "rug patterns" surrounded by borders. It can be a nice touch. Adds interest for sure.

The flooring should have a visual flow. The angles will be far too busy. Keep the directions square to the rooms and run the hallway flooring long. ...Parallel to the walls. Short sections of hallway flooring tend to foreshorten the space. Don't angle the hallway floors, and definitely not in that one room. It's going to look really off. Use a threshold to make the transition in that one area, or if possible, mitre the boards into one another. That would be a great look.