Larry_Sweeney

I just realized I put this thread in the wrong discussion area. I wanted it in the Q&A. Can someone tell me how to move it? Thanks

MY CHALLANGE OF THE DAY I'm working on a restoration project for a 1830 Pa. stone house. The casings (all trim) is attached directly to the studding and the plaster comes up to the casing. I show in the following attachment what I'm after and what I've been able to accomplish so far. I realize I can't get the rabbeted jam (or can I?), but (1) is there any way to flush the face of the door to the trim? (2) I would also like to get the casing on the inside of the door to be next to the studding. I thought by changing the "jamb settings" could possibility do the trick, but I'm getting nowhere. I was able to get the trim against the stud on the front side by changing this setting. . Does anyone have any work around suggestions to get these items accomplished? I suppose not to many of you come across this type of construction, but doing a lot of restoration work I run into it all the time. I know I can just make a cad detail of this, but it would be nice to somehow figure CA out to accomplish it in the model. Thanks for any and all advice. It's always appreicated.

Rich...............Not to get off the subject too far. A short time ago I put in the "Suggestions" that we should have the option to "rotate" the molding profile in the Molding Polyline Specification dbx. https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/5769-option-to-rotate-a-molding-when-building-up-a-molding-profile/ This is just another case where it would come into play. Our only option now is to rotate the molding profile in Cad and then resave it. At some point you end up with a whole bunch of the same profiles just rotated at different angles and not knowing which one you will need to use until you see it actually "attached" to the molding p-line. If you agree, put a comment on that suggestion--------------squeeky wheel gets greased!

Robert...............Yes, its working correctly now for me also----now. I reloaded the material off the site and started changing the texture scale. The first time I started changing my texture scale I only made a copy of the texture one time and used that copy to play with the scale. The second time, I made a copy of the texture on every scale change and it acted appropriately. I guess this was what Curt was telling me to do. Whatever------------at least I got the scale to where I like it. Thanks to all and have a great day.

I tried using the jpg. from the thread above, but it turned out blury. Here's the link of site where I got the texture if any wants to try. http://www.swtexture.com/2013/04/slate-crazy-tiles.html

Curt.....The first thing I did was to make a copy. Gram....For the pattern I have it set as area. With this pattern the scale is greyed out. This is the actual jpg. I downloaded for the material. Maybe someone else might try enlarging it and see if they get the same results. I'm going through the whole "materis loading" process and see if I get a different result. Thanks to all for your time and advice.

As you can see from the attachment there is no distortation in the flagstone. The flagstone "texture size" hasn't change since the X/Y scale was at 96". I have it set at 168" in the Define Material dbx. now ,but there has been no change in render view.

I downloaded a flagstone texture and it turned out way to small in scale. I went into my "Define Material", "Texture" and my scales settings were set to 20" in the X & Y. I kept increasing the X/Y scale up through 96" and they were still to small. I went and changed the scale to an even larger number and the scale showed change on the "teapot" in the dbx. window, but the scale did not change beyond the 96" scale in my render view. Will the scale only encrease a certain percentage from the original scale? If this is the case why does it keep showing an encrease size when the scale is encreased in the "Texture Window" in the Define Material dbx?

Perry........I keep forgetting about that. So what you're saying means that I could pull all the surfaces back 3" from the connection. I don't know if that would work in my case. I was making a railing wall on a stairs and wanted to stop the wall 3" back from another wall for space for a 1/2 newel post (millwork) With it "connecting" to the "millwork" newel post the spacing of the balusters were all spaced equal. If I would use the "edit wall layer intersection tool" and pull back the surfaces would the spacing of the balusters change? I'll have to play with this idea and see what the outcome will be. Have a great day.

Rod........Yes, that worked. Thank you. For some reason I thought you could also use a cad line. Have a great day.

I'm trying to run a railing wall to within 3" of a normal wall that is running perpendicular to the railing wall. I was thinking I could draw a cad line at 3" and that would prevent the railing wall from attaching to the other wall. Either that's not the case or I need to check a dbx somewhere. Am I wrong or is there a way to stop them from attaching?

Bill..............Yes, that's what I ended up doing. It would be nice if in the railing dbx. we were allowed measurements in both directions. CA must think people only us square balusters. Have a great day.

I'm using a railing wall on a stairs so I can have a bottom rail. I have a baluster that is 3/4"x2" that I want to use. When I install it in the railing wall it is turned the wrong way with the 2" dimension running across (perpendicular) the rail rather than with (parallel) the rail. Is there a way to rotate the balusters or am I going about building the stair rail entirely wrong?

Jon..................Exactly what I was after. Thank you so much for taking your time to help. It's very appreciated. To all......Thanks for your time and advice. Have a great day!

Jon...............Thanks for the texture. It's the closest to what I've been looking for yet. Idealy it would be nice to have more varation in the color from stone to stone. Colors of Pensylvania Bluestone vary from greys, pale greens to blue-greens. I imagine there is a program that I could do that in.

Mick.................Thanks for the info. I'm sure that's what has happen. I deleted the original site I had in my favorites and changed it to the new url. Have a great day.

Here are my results using a roof for making a rail cap on top of my curved top wall. for clarity I made the center section a different color. I started my roof "rail cap" by making my rafters and all fascias 1" thick and my roof surface 1/16" thick and the material white (color for my purpose). I then added my shadowboard profile to the roof planes. This is the cross section of what that combination came up with. With the roundover on the profile molding I added for a shadow board there was a conflict with the roof surface as I point out. Depending on your shadowboard profile this may not be a problem. To fix my problem I put my roof on a different layer and turned it off. This left the shadowboard still showing since it is on a different layer (roof trim). Then in place to the original roof I installed a p-solid to match the shape of the shadowboard and came up with this. This is also what is shown in the render view. I first tried to make a seperate 3D molding p-line but I kept running into problems and then realized I still had use of the shadowboard trim from the original roof used to make the curved top wall. Using the the shadowboard was a MUCH easier solution. I then put the shadowboard and p-solid I made for the cap (red) on it's own layer. There may be a better solution than this but it didn't go too bad once I figured out the process. A much easier solution would be to have CA give us the capablity to curve the top of a railing wall and then use a custom rail cap on top following the curve. How about it CA.----------X8?

Kirk................Thanks for the info. I had already visited the texture site you listed in your second thread. I didn't see what I was after. I'm looking for what I refer to as Pennsylvania Blue Stone. You can purchase it as square and rectangle pieces or random broken sizes with a thickness around 2" or so thick. Some pieces can can cover many square feet. Over the years I've worked with peices as large as 6'x12'x6". Bluestone patios are quite common around here in the northeast. I don't know why I'm having such a hard time finding a texture that will work. As for the 3-Diva site, it's one I've had marked as a favorite on my "Favorites Bar" for a long, long time and never had any type of problem before. I don't know what happened, but to say the least I'm a little "gun shy" now, but thanks for letting me know you had no problems. Have a great day

Ben.............agree 100%

Does anyone have or know of a seamless flagstone texture for use on a patio? I've been doing searches, but as of yet I've turned up nothing. I was thinking there was something on the 3-Diva site. I use to go there all the time, but I tried to go there yesterday and all kinds of S#$% came up on my screen and I didn't even get to the site. Some type of virus. Scared the crap out of me. I'm no computer gugu. Luckily my son-in-law was here (my computer gugu) and straightened things out. I highly recommend not going to that site anymore. I also thought there was something on the "old Chieftalk", but I don't know how to get on that anymore.

Mark.........The gargoyle came from Google Wharehouse. It was close enough to what the customer had purchased to use in the design. That section is still a work in progress. The actual gargoyle weighs 900lbs. It's solid concrete. I told the customer to get one formed out of dense foam, (He thought I was joking!) The cost of building the structure to sit it on would be W-A-Y less expensive. Structurally it's a real PITA! I'll need an engineers stamp for sure.

Curt.......this would definitely have been easier, but in plan view I wanted to show an actual wall. Now the next thing will be installing a cap on top like I want. I'm going to try and use a roof, shadow boards and freize to get what I'm after. This is the profile I'm after. I'm hoping to be able to use the roof rather than a 3D molding p-line. I have a feeling using a p-line will be a real pain. If it the "roof" idea works I'll show it on this thread.

Ginkgohouse......That worked! Ginkgohouse and to all............Thank you for your time and comments------much appreciated. Have a great day P.S. Ginkgohouse---Do you have a name?

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/49042923/BERLIN%20REAR%20ADDITION%20PROJECT.zip How does that saying go. If you don't succeed TRY, TRY AGAIN!! I'm not sure what I did wrong the last time, but if this doesn't work I'm going for a walk. Maybe it's best if I go back to bed and start this day all over again.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/49042923/BERLIN%20PROJECT%2006292015.zip Sorry about that..............Like I said earlier, my mind is in "brain fart" mode.