johnny

That is pretty solid qty numbers, so id say you'd be best served leasing (or buying, but I like to lease) a KIP. You want a toner based printer, not inkjet for the #'s you are talking.

Do you want me to email you the myriads upon myriads of pictures I could use as examples..? I see way more crap design than I do good design...and yes, I do believe that is based upon lax regulation on who should be designing structures. Id say its more an exception than the rule to see non-architects who know what they are truly doing. To me it feels like back in the 90's where the transition from "Graphic Designer" to anyone with MS Publisher could call themselves one. Software is making it too easy to BS....

I copied what you did as best I could and had very little trouble. My file size was 2.89meg....so not sure whats happening with yours.

Id say the opposite. The more professionals doing the design the better housing will become (and no, I am not just talking architects). I see too many hideous new homes that reinforce that belief.

Personally, this isn't a place where I would use an auto-dormer... in fact, I rarely use that tool.

As software is becoming more and more "automated" I think things have to go this way - and I hope it does. WAY too many pretenders who view the software as "the business" and think they can BS their way through a set of plans. We need more restrictions IMO while also grandfathering in existing designers in some fashion.

That is a good point too, and I realize now after using Chief's built-in PDF system is that CA prints in Vector (which is sharp) vs using Adobe's print driver it converts to an image. Upping the DPI would probably make sense, but the option to print in Vector is perfect.

BINGO...that did it Ben, thanks.

So i've been trying to work with greyscale prints, and I dont know how to get the result from CA such the text isn't blurry. The print preview by Chief looks great, and then the print itself is pixelated. Below is the print preview screen capture and then the PDF result. Are there settings I can change to get more crisp text and lines?

There is a specific Forum for "HomeDesigner" https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/ This forum is the for All-Pro version of Chief Architect.

lol.... so I sent an email request for invite! Looking forward to it.

Id just add that if you go this route make sure you don't change your "angle" accidentally. Its easy to do, and I was having that problem until someone on the forums pointed that out.

I'm with Scott on this - paint what looks good and sometimes it can be more creative to use "tactile" tools like the "paint" tool.

I'm the JPC that never shows to workshops if you are the same scott that never sends me the invite through your normal email...=) I dont know why I never get whatever initial invite you send me. Whenever ive been able to make it is when you or someone else directly emails me. One of those workshops would be very cool.

so to be clear are you saying you keep basement and foundation plan on level 0? ...or are you saying you've never done it that way?

I wish I saved the file at that point, but what I did was go back and manually edit things to get it working again. I can tell you I had many "issues"...but mostly where Floor 1 areas not fully encapsulated by the floor 2 perimeter was causing problems.

So adding a foundation to the main (1) floor - so foundation on floor 0 - shouldn't the stem wall of the foundation be dynamic with the room height? Id like it to be, so is there a way to get that done?

lol...yep, I see it how. I was looking over at the wall settings thinking I needed to change the wall layer somehow. I feel dumb.

I've tried multiple things to get the upper section of a pony wall to align to the interior Sheetrock. Its got to be easy and I am missing it. Any help is appreciated.

So I recently tried using floor 1 as my "daylight" basement level with all sorts of problems. I've heard others on the forums use the 1st floor in CA for this purpose, and so I am curious if you guys had similar issues or if I am missing something key. My biggest issues were dealing with the roof, and how it treated lower walls which didn't have a "main floor wall" or floor platform above it (on Floor 2). Even when I went to all manual roofs I was getting wall edges wanting to build up to the roof-line, and when modifying the upper 2 floor (which was main floor) where the outline of the building was temporary disconnected several walls auto-generated themselves back from floor 1 to the roof. Is there something in particular you need to keep in mind when trying to use Floor 1 as the basement level? Thanks for any help!

Yep, would be nice to have usable information for annotations in the model.

Hey Charles....tough window condition to model in CA exactly as you show (though very rare from my experience). Personally, I would probably just use a glass louvered window (notice you can set the size of the glass panels) and add the frame detail in poly-solid (you asked in your video for comments on alternatives). Your way works too, i just consider this more a louvered window with individual reinforced frame than mulled sectionals. Its fairly easy to add 2D detail to the glass louvered window to match your condition if 2D is enough. I think you are correct though there is no easy way to model this exact condition in CA using the window tool.

If you have the type of of troubles you're having it typically means its bad architecture. Glenn touches on this as well....its a good thing to match you floor plan design with what is happening elsewhere in the structure.

Considering how many people helped me with videos on this forum I felt compelled to make one for you....enjoy. Its pretty easy.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVeuxItO-a4&feature=youtu.be&hd=1

Yep, works good for B&B, ship-lap siding, as well as, modern cladding panels combined with the "coins" tool. Its actually pretty cool, but I do wish our material regions had corner settings to apply.