GeneDavis

Thanks, I get it now, too. Had to learn what "assemble" means.

I have not figured a workaround for this, other to piece in (edit all the wall framing) the plates the way they will likely be done. Open up the wall framing detail for your 26' wall, see where the 16-foot stock lengths get cut to land on stud centers, and edit accordingly. Why bother? Ideally, since Chief won't do this for you, in the same material list, one could get only the plates to list out as total lineal feet, then divide by 16 or whatever, and add up for cut scrap. For now, one takes one look at materials doing framing all as total lineal feet, then a second using the buy list and structural member reporting.

I want to change the ceiling in an entry porch from all flat same height, to have a central section raised with a tray rim around. I've a mix of stick and truss framing above for the roof. Is it going to be better to divide the space with room divider walls so as to raise up the central section, then do pitched ceiling planes for the four sides of the tray, or should I just not do room division, and build all ceilings with planes.

My pref is for a diag front for this one.

You can relabel any elevation. Or you can rethink your layout scheme if you are doing shotgun houses. No one says a plan page cannot be done in portrait mode.

See attached. Uncheck recessed, for doors and windows. Oh, and enhance your profile with a signature line that tells us about what you are using, software and hardware. See mine for an example.

He needs the top plate, actually sort of a mudsill, to be a tripled PT 2x6, and inset from framing line. And only transverse to the joists. There's none where joists are parallel to wall. Here's a sloppy workup of what's going on. I made the foundation wall as brick>airgap>block, all as main layer and it's a pony wall with brick>airgap>airgap, the top section inner airgap same 5-5/8" thickness as the block below. Top of lower wall is set at a height appropriate for the tripled 2x6 floor beam to bear directly on the block. The foundation wall has a zero mudsill. The floor beam is manually done. I am no framing wizard, or at least not at the level to know how to make it autoframe and be properly placed. I did not diddle the block texture, nor did I do the framing as other than my default 12" I-joist. I only did a pair of wall breaks to emulate a single pier at block length of 15-5/8, but you can get the idea by seeing the image of what to do.

Hi, Nancy. It helps if we know you are using the same software as us. Is it Chief Premiere X11? You have posted before, so maybe it is time to put your details in your signature. Use the profile. See mine as an example.

Try creating wall types you'll need. They are all foundation walls and have a footing. Between piers, the wall is the single-wythe brick. Offset the footing appropriately. At pier type 1 (CMU parallel to wall) the wall has layers of brick, air, and CMU. It's a pony wall, and it's upper makeup is brick only. The break between upper and lower is where your beam bears on the CMU piers. Pier type 2 wall is like 1 but for when the CMU stack is rotated and 90 to the wall. i'm just spitballin' this into my phone out here in the dark next to the pool, but I think it might work. Use CAD lines to define your pier ends, and that's where the wall breaks go.

Thanks. Always interesting to see the regional practices when it comes to foundations. Two questions and a comment. Where is finished grade in your scheme, relative to top of footing? Is a rat slab poured and if not, what is done to stop moisture from coming out of ground and affecting floor frame structure? And the comment: seems unusual for 3-5/8" brick "veneer" to have no backing other than the periodic piers.

Piece by piece, huh? Are your block piers made of individual solids each the size of a modular block? If so, do you really need that level of detail in construction documents? Which of your elements, footings, brick wainscot, piers one way, piers rotated 90, do you model a piece at a time, instead of using Chief wall and foundation tools?

She's full-size, she's from the 3D Warehouse, and I don't know her name. 3D figures like this can make your file sizes huge, so choose and use carefully. I delete them after getting the camera shots I want.

Whatever, but five most used! Thanks.

I thought it might be interesting and useful for others, like me, that have and use few to none.

Is it easy to Skype Chief? I've a client that is terrible at communicating wants and needs, and it might be better if he could Skype with me, my Chief view active, voice to voice, both of us only seeing what I'm doing in Chief. Possible? How?

As seen here, it is possible, but not with the model you imported.

It looks like somebody did, though. Where did you get the 3D model? The texture scale on the cushion is obviously larger than on the rest of the chair. I suggest you contact this 3D modeler who has a number of upholstered models up on the 3D Warehouse. Ask her if she can improve your model. https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/by/desiree

I have been using SU since the stone age. I've plug-ins galore, use it with rendering apps, and can model just about any house including all its fixtures and furniture. I had all those SU skills coming into Chief and started with the pre-X version 10. I still prefer it to Chief if I want to do something in 3D, simply because I find it faster due to my SU skillset. It has kept me from fully using Chief's 3D modeling tools. That all said, Chief has all the tools necessary to do all the totally-to-scale detailing you need to do, and the string of posts above describes all that, and well. But I gotta ask, how often in your work, do you need to draw details of moldings and millwork items that will require molding knives cut, patterns made, etc., and therefore require shop drawings done with precision? One might say, "it's required in historical replications," but in my experience with that, the shops are given physical samples of existing parts to replicate, not drawings.

Away from PC right now, but tried doing a simple 20' square box house with same window corner and got same problem. Casements, 30" w x 48" h, force into corner and edit offsets to 3.75" both ways, between-pair separation 3.5". I built two houses with this config, 3.5" corner post in 2x6 wall framing. EDIT: Incorrecto! The config works in a plain box house situation. See pic. It is the wall intersect that must be doing it.

I did this house model as an exercise, using a for-sale plan, the web page showing plan views and many inside and outside images. The wall in question is shown in the images attached. Plan is attached also. The psolid out in the air away from the corner is a start at manually patching the whole thing, but why do I have to? NSB_Cottage_1725.plan

Have you looked at all the layers in the framing section?

Have you used the HELP function in Chief, that explains all the features of the window spec dialog, and then tried things out, changing settings to see results? If not, then why not start now?

Rhymes with quiche, n'est ce pas?

I prefer recessed as the term for the ceiling feature. A web search turns up a lot of people using the spelling "trey." Some dummy says it comes from French and I am sure the dummy has it confused with Spanish. Let's face it, builders and real estate agents aren't purists when it comes to architectural terminology. But kudos to Chief for bringing us the tools to do this.

If the cab is to truly be a single, it's gonna get built as a single box with faceframe, not as three cabs ganged together, so if this were my project, that is how I would model it. You can get the true look you want by fiddling with the stile and rail widths and overlays and reveals. You'll give yourself a nice course in modeling cabs by Chief, when you do this, so be sure to explore around and play with it, end panels, toeboard recess options, and all. If you don't know the details of how these are made, here is April to show you how, just like in a pro shop. And show us your result!