dshall

Interesting Larry, I believe you were creating board and batts with 1x1 stud framing layer. Clever.

Let's not stop there, after all, 2x12 joists burn too,. Let's require concrete walls, floors and roofs, they will never burn.

We have a whole house fan to export the hot interior air to the outside...... and I guarantee you my whole house fan is louder than your silent fan. Our whole house fan sounds like I am inside one of those turbine engines on a 747 that is moments away from taking off. We usually place unwanted guests under the whole house fan and turn it on for a few moments ..... the problem clears up quickly.

Come on guys, the Great Glen Woodward solved this a while back. Simply select a wall or two, open dbx, make the wall NON ROOM DEF, paint the wall, reselect the walls that are non room def and change back to room def. Or you can use the material dbx.

I don't know.... if that is so, I would understand the complaint, but again, we have to sprinkle all new buildings anyway.

What I think is so funny is we are making our houses so air tight to be energy efficient, we are actually having to install a fan that runs 24 hours to get some ventilation in the house. Here in SOCAL, we run the AC maybe 2 weeks out of the year and we run the heat only when my mom visits......

This is so true..... I am not sure what the big stink is here i..... I assume you want the basement finished or you will soon, so put 5/8" type x gyp and you are done. To take it a step further, here in CA, land of the fruits and nuts, we have to sprinkle all new buildings. I would rather use TJI's (stronger) and put the type x on the underside.... does not seem like a big deal, what am I missing?

Have you thought of using a door with a different material on each side. Works very well in render, in vector you will have a few stray lines.

thank you Yusuf

It was Dennis, see post 18.

I think somebody came up with the no room def wall idea about 358 posts ago. It is a possibility. The issue with that is if plate heights change or room floor heights or ....... blah blah blah, there are issues. I ruled that out a while back.

Nope, you can never make is a dark color

Thanks for the model Yusuf. Here is a pic if I have a 12" wall and the window is inset. YUSUF buck scott YUSUF 2.plan

And no, I do not know exactly what you did in that model. I guess that is why if is helpful to post the plan so we don't spend an hour going back and forth refuting each other's solution.

I see what you did Yusuf, I can do that. I will exaggerate the issue. Buick a 12" thick wall, put a window with a 3" frame and inset the frame 8". Do you now see the drywall on the exterior that Brian and I see?

Maybe you could post a plan view of the studs. Are they 2x8's or 2 rows of 2x4's?

Wow, well don't keep us in suspense, post the plan please. Funny, I wonder if it is what I'm thinking of. One wall but I would get two layers of studs..... Another solution but not perfect. So Yusuf, let's see your solution.

Not the best way, see pic,

So I sent this into Brian, and this was his comment, I must agree with him, for whatever reason I have not made a stink about this before and I guess not too many other folks have made a stink about it. If it important to have this fixed, please let headquarters know that it is important to you. But, going back to my BUCKED WALL ISSUE, if the drywall did not appear outside, I might be able to simplify my bucked wall methods.... so far Perry's method is best.

I sent invite for a gtm

Thanks Joe. Did you try it? It appears to cover the window frame. This is no better than the Perry method for a number of reasons.

I was able to open and I assume Robert was able to open.

Plan reviews can easily take 4 weeks for the first time, and if plans need to be resubmitted, another 2 weeks is not unheard of. It is absolutely ridiculous. A few years ago they offered expedited plan check service for an additional fee, out in about a week, of course everyone opted for the expedited plan check service so they were back to where they were, everybody wanted the expedited service.

Thanks Bill, I would be very interested in learning the blinds attachment method. I do agree with you, Perry's method may be the best at least for me as of now. Perry's method works best in plan, section and elevation, the other methods did not work for all three... plan, section and elevation. I went back to Joe's method for a brief time...... window with 4"frame set in 12" thick wall and recessed 8"....... the problem with Joe's method..... and it is a very simple and good method but the DRYWALL shows at exterior. See pic. Why is that? Why does the drywall show on outside? Why doesn't the meeting of drywall and exterior finish NOT, I SAID NOT meet in the middle of window so we do not see the drywall on outside?

I need 2 sheets just for my energy calculations. A simple 20'x14' addition off the back of a one story, slab foundation and roof trusses, 13 sheets and one month of plan check time.