dshall

Thanks Bill, I must study your "blind" technique. This is a typical case of pick your poison. There is not a perfect solution, that being said, I think DG Method is the least hassle.

Yes Yusuf, that is Dennis Gavin's method. However you forgot to put an exterior finish on the non room def wall. I think Gavin Dennis gets this weeks award for "Inspirational Achievements", thanks again DG, good stuff.

Graham, last week I changed my name to Scott, just goofing with you, I think you are correct, the build order is important. Some really weird stuff.

Thanks Dennis, definitely the best solution to date. It does work with a few quirks. 1. Sometimes the top of window is not correct, in fact sometimes I need to put in a totally and incorrect top of window height..... maybe something I am doing..... 2. The other step I have not figured out is how to use your method with my windows already in place. I would like the window to be in place and then add your oversized window opening and the non def wall in the correct spot WITHOUT HAVING TO MOVE THE WINDOW that is already in place. I thought I did it once but I cannot repeat. Thanks again, good solution.

Thanks guys for the help. Bill, you do not have the recessed stucco band, Yusuf, I am not sure what you are doing, Jeff's solution would not work because I rely on sections and if I drew the section, I would not have the framing, Dennis's looks good, I think it might be a derivation of Jeff's, I wish you would post a small plan Dennis, I thought JC method might work, but take a look, the window is backwards, so far my method seems to work the best,,,,, but that is saying very little. I have a feeling the solution is under our nose, Dennis, would you mind posting a plan with your solution? I am attaching the plan I am working on, so if anybody gets a great idea, just edit my plan and repost. Thanks all. BBB A BUCKING PLAN 1.plan.zip

Gene, that is exactly it, a sub frame of 2x4 within the exterior wall.

Yep, tried that but you do not have the stucco return between the window and the bucking wall...... you know, in my example I have about 4" between the window frame and the bucking wall, the bucking wall being the wall that sticks out another bucking 4".

Yea, but if the window moves, I have to monkey around with the walls again.... but you and Joe may be right, that might be the best solution...... so essentially my solution (double walls) but using double walls only at the openings.

Thanks Dennis and Bird...... not sure if Jeff's solution is the solution... he did not show a section or a decent plan view solution. If anybody can post a small plan with their best solution, I would appreciate it.

Joe, it is really easy to describe a solution, but have your tried it? I should of said something else, I am not only looking for a satisfactory 3d look, but a good plan solution and a good cross section solution..... I ain't even going to request a good material list solution... I gave up on material lists a long time ago.

Geez, Yusuf "The Ethiopian" is espousing some sage advice..... BTW, I am trying to use some large words that he won't understand (English is his 99th language, I doubt he can decipher what I am opining about).

The goal is one wall type but I want my....... BUCKING DETAIL!!!!!!!!

BTW, in my plan I used a window and a pass-thru. I should of put in a window and did the DOUBLE WALL O[TIONS...... ENLARGED OPENING OPTION, that way only one window and no pass-thru needed. But still I had to build two walls.

I know, I know, you think there is a misspelling in the title, not so. Take a look at the picture, my client calls this a BUCKING DETAIL Essentially we are framing a 2x8 wall but around the window we want the REBATE/INVERTED TRIM, whatever you want to call it. Take a look at the plan, this is the beset solution I have come up with.... 2 walls.... what a hassle..... anybody have a better idea? BBB A BUCKING PLAN 1.plan.zip

Here is a vid, not a bad vid. http://youtu.be/EnUIljodQC4

Wendy gave you one answer.

I think Boxon The Serb did a good job too. I think you should make the PSOLID BEAM higher so it does not stick down in the room. There is some "z" fighting with the fascia and drywall on inside, easy to fix by turning off the framing, but you should not need to do that. I do not know why that fascia planes out to the drywall. Why is the fascia/ridge beam, set back the thickness of the drywall? I don't know. Maybe this is something we should send in to the boys at headquarters and see if they can fix this. In regards to the framing not being perfect, I am with DJP on this, tough to get it perfect, the technical connections are probably better left to the CAD DETAILS at this time. I assume the boys at headquarters will eventually improve the framing as time goes on.

That is what I thought. You edited both the tops and bottoms of the walls. We all know that you can set a wall that follows terrain and that is stepped to a specific height. What you would get CJ is a top profile similar to what you have via editing........ so I am not sure you had to edit the top of the wall to get the steps at top of wall....... but I know for a fact to get the steps at the bottom of the wall and the footing at the bottom of the wall and the steps for the footing at the bottom of the wall, you needed to manually edit the bottom of the wall. So the question is, why can't we specify a stepped bottom of wall with footings at bottom of wall so that the footings are beneath the top of grade? Great post CJ. This should be in the suggestion forum.

I think CJSpud, by Buddy who lives in the Hinterlands nailed it...... and this is what bugs me........ the footings do not go below the terrain. CJ had to manually adjust the bottom of the footings so they are below the terrain. Does that make sense? Why can't we build what CJ built, but have a dvx setting where we can specify how much lower than the grade is the bottom of the footings, so we do not have to manually adjust the bottom of the wall. CJ, is that what you did? Did you have to manually adjust the bottom of the wall?

Hi Bill, I suppose I am confused as to where you are using that particular wall. Are you using that wall on the sides of the deck? You were not specific as to where you used the walls and you did not post a plan. As soon as I finish this little thing I am doing, I will do a vid..... I think there should be some good things that come out of the vid.

You need to be a bit more specific with the issue. I think you did a pretty darn good job. What do I think is wrong with your plan? 1. There is no edge to your deck..... I know how to fix this.... I do not like the result in plan view but I can fix that too 2. Not crazy about the handrail that sits on your roof..... I would rather a wall there that projects higher than roof surface (waterproofing issues) If you will be a bit more specific with 3 areas that did not work, I will see if I can do a vid...... there is some pretty good stuff here........

I have never had a problem creating a roof top deck...... and I did not use a terrain retaining wall. So Bill, how & why would I use a terrain retaining wall converted to a railing to create a roof top deck? And Michaelgia, why and how did a terrain retaining wall converted to a railing help you solve your problem?

I thought I used level zero for the foundation. I think on the last 500 projects I have used level zero as the foundation.

I think you got it at the end, not sure. The floor cannot be lower than top of footing...... but the footing can be 3.68 miles below floor. Here is a vid if it still does not make sense. http://youtu.be/Cki4DdTqDaU

Mick, again to restate, your footing elevations are controlled by the FLOOR THICKNESS. And this may be the way it works, but dollars to donuts, I bet the footing will be built at an elevation independent of the floor structure thickness.... The point being, I think you should control the elevation of the footings independently of the thickness of the floor structure, and the way to do that is by opening up the room dbx and changing the HEIGHT OF THE STEM WALL. Great subject guys, thanks.