mtldesigns

I agree.. I'm not a hunter, so how many point is that. Doesn't look like the 8 point I see hanging on my friends wall.

This is what I do as well. Comes in handy with survey plans, so I don't have to duplicate the legal descriptions plus any thing else that might be on it. I just draw the lot, easements and placements of structures and misc.

Thank you all.. Had a storm roll through and had no power for a bit today, is why I am replying so late. I think underground lines in my subdivision must be water logged because for some reason this year the power shuts off even during a mild shower.. at least it seams that way. I can do that Chop, I was asking in particular for when I am in a door or window dbx.. I know how to do this, but your answer Robert and that vid you made Steve, cleared some things up, PLUS it will aide to others. I blame the heat for not being clear in my OP. What I was trying to ask or maybe wonder for a future suggestion if it was possible to have the door and window specification dbx have the options to add-change or delete and stack molding. Without having to create a saved profile or 4 piece stack molding part like Steve showed. We can do this in the room specifications under molding tab, is why I ask.

I am trying to figure out how to build up (or stack up) molding. Meaning, I want two or three moldings combined as one. Mainly need for lintels, for windows and doors, since the dbx won't let you build them like you can in a room molding dbx. Will be suggesting this when I am done here.

Great web site Gene. Full of information esp. the process. Thanks. Why did you have to do saw cuts 24" on centers? Did your plan showed that or the contractors plan? I didn't really see where they mentioned new construction, but I would assume they don't grind and polish until the house is dried in. So your house was on a wooden frame, that's why the 3 plates.. Now that I've had a cup of coffee, I had to read that again. I used Cloudy Stained Concrete via Chiefs core catalog. I set a thickness on top of my concrete slab (4 1/2") as 1/32". I didn't realize there were so many color and style options. I will pass this onto my clients for them to review as well. This is a Jacksonville company, I wonder if they'll come west to Tally, a 2.5 hour drive on I-10.. There reviews were all great.

To my concrete Chiefers... I have a descent sized house that the clients wants a polished concrete slab throughout. Any special notes or requirements that I need to call out? Google gives you a thousand different answers, so I am looking for more of a direction by asking you pros. I typically use a 4" monoslab, I know because of the grinding and polishing I will need to go thicker. So far this is what I have called out, please tell me if I am going in the wrong direction. Min. 4 1/2" thk slab/slump min. compression of 4000#. What about joints? Special aggregate?

I agree, and it looks like Vancouver Canada doesn't have flat land either. But Jason is right in regards the "Staging" stuff, that can take a lot of time. Will you be just be supplying 3D viewer link for them to share, or will you be part of a design review where clients can make comments and you make changes in real time? For example, picking multiple countertop materials until the Mrs. is happy or moving walls and openings so the Mr. is happy with a view of a football game from every corner of the house. (Both have happen to me is why I ask) In any case, I charge a flat fee for just the house model, anything else (staging and/or design review meetings) is hourly. I don't know the rate up there to give you a dollar amount.

Thanks Jacob. What do you mean by "specified elevation reference"? Are these based off of zero? The schedule you show is a little confusing at first glance. The second window shows the top of the window at 80" but the header height at 202 1/4".. I currently don't show my RO on the schedule, but if I did, 9 times out of 10, the contractor doesn't look at the schedule to see the height anyways to care, he's looking at the plan. I think I will show what you noted as a self check PLUS dimension window RO on my my plan views and details. Good to know I can show these heights though...

I couldn't get that to show correctly either. So since I am dimensioning the RO in the plan view, I just removed the RO from the schedule. As far as the 2" for your window buck, is that 1.5" for the buck frame and 1/2" for window gap? Just curious.. that's where I am struggling a little, making sure the RO is big enough but not to big to defeat the purpose of the ICF wall.

Ah.. thank you. So basically my brick ledge depth in this case. Sorry for late reply. Lost power to a storm yesterday and I didn't open internet when it came back up.

I am curious of what the extension length is for in the wall dbx? I couldn't find a thing in Chief about it.. Maybe I am looking in the wrong place...? https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-02944/defining-a-new-wall-type.html

This also the case for section arrows aka "CALLOUTS". You have to make the text style a custom source and uncheck "rotate with plan". @Luciano FYI your future reference.

I go this route all the time. Yes, its more lines on a default model, but you have so much more control. And IMO I think you have gained a lot of knowledge of this software in that one year..

It took me a minute to figure that out myself a month or so ago. To me, by having it checked means you do want it rotated with the plan, right? That's what I was thinking anyways, if my layout view is rotated, I want that note to rotate as well.

testing 1 2 3 black diamond door.calibz

I have one. I create a symbol in my library.. how do I get it on here though??

Hey Rob... I'm just guessing because I didn't see a model to look at. By chance is your carport slab done with invisible walls instead of a driveway? If so, that could be why, since that frieze is looking for a wall to continue out.

I actually tried this method on my first post-beam. Hated it, esp. if anything changed. And I was always reconfiguring that invisible wall. To me, since my clients do not use a wall details (per Chief), nor a BOM of lumber, I just ran my walls as normal and placed my post. So much simpler. Not to mention, the post are typically 8" sq.. how much am I really gaining in a BOM if I cut at each post? For a detail, I pick one post and manually place studs (poly solids, material fir) to show the connection.

A side note.. if this was going to be used through out my design, I then would create this as a new material to be used.

I don't know if this is the right way or not.. but what I do is create a solid and change it to a color (either paint or stain), then use the "Adjust Material Definition" (eraser looking thing with red grey and blue stripes), I get the color blend (red, green, blue) numbers and transpose them to the item I want that color. Go to that member you want to change color, pick the AMD (mentioned above) icon and select. Go to texture, and pick "Blend with Texture" this will highlight the color box below it. Simple pick that color box and change the color via the red, green and blue numbers you wrote down. Bam..

All good stuff gentlemen. After speaking with Casey (client), he is not going to build for about two years. His goal is to get the plans, and start cutting wood. He then is going to get it dried. Also, there wont be a knot in any of his pieces.. and if it doesn't pass the mustard, then it's firewood. He wants this house to be here for his great-great grandkids and will take the time. I also brought up the fact he needs to check with locale on their requirements.. (and Chop and Doug have mentioned). Here in Wakulla Florida, so def will need to be wind rated.

Got a new client who has his own saw mill. This guy wants to build a 4000 sq. home, but wants to saw all his own studs and he wants the actual to be the nominal. Meaning a 2x4 measures 2x4, etc... I know that is just a setting in the dbx so that's not an issue. I'm just wondering in my head what kind of engineering or permitting issues we may have in the future since the wood will not be graded. He thinks we can get by with this because the main supports will be steel. IDK... Am I thinking to much into this? I have put in my contract a stipulation, that any engineering rejection based on framed members not being stamped/grade, that an hourly rate will be charged to update to meet those requirements. I typically don't charge for engineering changes is why I felt the need for this adder.

Hope you find someone.. Rich. I got family (mom and dad) in Howard City, so somewhat familiar with the area. However, I am to far away to help you out.

This is exactly what I do.. I have all four elevation views open, for example, and copy and paste from each one to the other (if applicable). Not worrying about order. Once complete, I rearrange the order on the schedule. I love this availability to be honest, makes for a nice clean drawing. And if you need to modify the text, you do it in the schedule. Rids the possibility of missing an old fashion text somewhere.

Just wondering, why do you uninstall?