mtldesigns

This probably should be a suggestion... and maybe I will put one in... But what's the possibility of a creating a Chief Architect Catalog of downloadable textures as in what Rob is asking? As well as other textures and to be used for Bump Maps? Time is money, and it seams like there's always 3 jobs on the back burner, so spending time trying to create textures, find textures could be used more wisely. We sure don't need another Cabinet Catalog. Us Chief users could really use something like this, and appreciate it even more.

It always seems a "no def" wall doesn't do good in PBR.. or it could be my settings.. who knows. Those walls always seam to glow.

Nice looking house Roland.. saw the Saints on the big screen, then saw your from Orleans.. Way to represent! Use 3D plants when you can.. so much better that the images in a render view. You can change the sizes, rotate so no plant looks a like.

you did to Mark.. :-) Thanks gents

found it..

That makes sense, because the previous house I did a framing schedule for each wall detail and this was a save-is.. with a new wall schedule. How do I delete schedule that I cant see? The G schedule specifically.

Good morning Chiefer's, Starting some framing details this AM. I've done about 10 of these small house plans, and this one was a modification of one of those 10. Up till now, the framing detail always showed just the "T" label. This plan however is showing a G label as well. What is it? I pick it and its part of the framing member "T".. I turned off the Framing Label and it turns off.. so its part of the members, but I don't know what it is or how to turn it off.

type in split wired in your browser. I'm assuming this is what you meant.

Hey JP, Get used to using pre cut lumber lengths for your walls too. I don't know if this is actual assignment, if so, your tech professor will explain. In essence for a 9' ceiling, your rough needs to be 109 1/8". The finish ceiling will be be based on your ceiling drywall thickness, if strapping is needed (typical in the NE), and your floor finish. Study up on this, you might impress your instructor then. https://www.ezwoodshop.com/blog/lumber/lumber-dimensions-weird-2x4-lengths/ https://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/why-use-pre-cut-studs-for-framing-walls/ teaching a man to fish....

assuming your using premier x12?

try material region... Be in camera view looking at the wall you want to change.. Build>wall>material region. Draw a box.. thats your new material. Change it to what you want, then shape it with the grips. Read up on in, and there's vids..

Ah... manual ceiling plane.... gotcha! That worked.. thank you both! Dang misquotes, couldn't see the obvious.

LOL... dang misquotes.

Yes.. for this job, but it's ok... There will not be any problems on future jobs (I will use the advice you two gave). As for this project, this was a As-Build change. The builder in MI was going to use PT wood foundations (yes that's a thing) and because wood got so expense, they did a deep mono slab for frost and moved the mechanicals in the attic. I had this as an attic space too, so if I had planned accordingly, it could have been a room and then I could delete the ceiling in that room.

So Canadians don't have a south? No wonder its always cold up there. But, I do as Chops states as well, in situations like this, draw individual lines and reverse. Less frustration IMO

That did work, but can't be used here. The other side of that wall is a sloped (shed ceiling), so deleting the ceiling surface deletes it all. But I will use this on future endeavors that don't have this scenario.

I've been meaning to ask this before.. when showing a attic access by converting a poly into a "Hole In Ceiling Platform", how do you get rid of the ceiling part that was cutout, and now attached to the roof truss? Its part of the ceiling below.. I thought painting it "insulation no gap" would work, and it did, but the rest of the ceiling in that room disappeared also.

Very cool John.. Very detailed too. I learned some new words today, like baubles.

Ah, and your right. Just did one, not a group, worked as it should.

thinking way outside the box here.. make a copy of the model.. do the autoroof on that copy.. then copy paste back into your orig model.

that's what I thought also, but just like the example, I picked the ext. and railing wall, and picked the dim that was perp to it.. both of the walls moved, but the ext. and rail wall that was perp/connected to, did not move or adjust. I mean, I can work around this, no biggie. Bu thought as you did...

sorry, not yelling in subject.. forgot to turn off caps

Curious as of late.. but it seems that IN THE PAST when moving a wall via a dimension, that most of the time any connected wall moved as well.. esp. exterior walls. Why doesn't it do this any more?

Actually these are two 20 year old's. They were looking for a tiny house, that you see on TV, but they realized those things are expensive.. so they went with the next best thing, a small build. Just not portable. They got some acreage and are going to live off the land as much as possible. Couto's for having a dream and going for it. Can't wait for my 28 year old to get her own place I typically make my interior doors 32", as well (36" on customers request), but since they are young, they were going to go "tiny", and the space for a extra 2" does change things. But since I've posted the plan, and updating the laundry, I have made all interior doors 30.

My engineer tells me that if its residential, an engineer is all you need. When I do light commercial, I need both. Hasn't got me in any trouble, so it must be true.