mtldesigns

Hey JP, Get used to using pre cut lumber lengths for your walls too. I don't know if this is actual assignment, if so, your tech professor will explain. In essence for a 9' ceiling, your rough needs to be 109 1/8". The finish ceiling will be be based on your ceiling drywall thickness, if strapping is needed (typical in the NE), and your floor finish. Study up on this, you might impress your instructor then. https://www.ezwoodshop.com/blog/lumber/lumber-dimensions-weird-2x4-lengths/ https://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/why-use-pre-cut-studs-for-framing-walls/ teaching a man to fish....

assuming your using premier x12?

try material region... Be in camera view looking at the wall you want to change.. Build>wall>material region. Draw a box.. thats your new material. Change it to what you want, then shape it with the grips. Read up on in, and there's vids..

Ah... manual ceiling plane.... gotcha! That worked.. thank you both! Dang misquotes, couldn't see the obvious.

LOL... dang misquotes.

Yes.. for this job, but it's ok... There will not be any problems on future jobs (I will use the advice you two gave). As for this project, this was a As-Build change. The builder in MI was going to use PT wood foundations (yes that's a thing) and because wood got so expense, they did a deep mono slab for frost and moved the mechanicals in the attic. I had this as an attic space too, so if I had planned accordingly, it could have been a room and then I could delete the ceiling in that room.

So Canadians don't have a south? No wonder its always cold up there. But, I do as Chops states as well, in situations like this, draw individual lines and reverse. Less frustration IMO

That did work, but can't be used here. The other side of that wall is a sloped (shed ceiling), so deleting the ceiling surface deletes it all. But I will use this on future endeavors that don't have this scenario.

I've been meaning to ask this before.. when showing a attic access by converting a poly into a "Hole In Ceiling Platform", how do you get rid of the ceiling part that was cutout, and now attached to the roof truss? Its part of the ceiling below.. I thought painting it "insulation no gap" would work, and it did, but the rest of the ceiling in that room disappeared also.

Very cool John.. Very detailed too. I learned some new words today, like baubles.

Ah, and your right. Just did one, not a group, worked as it should.

thinking way outside the box here.. make a copy of the model.. do the autoroof on that copy.. then copy paste back into your orig model.

that's what I thought also, but just like the example, I picked the ext. and railing wall, and picked the dim that was perp to it.. both of the walls moved, but the ext. and rail wall that was perp/connected to, did not move or adjust. I mean, I can work around this, no biggie. Bu thought as you did...

sorry, not yelling in subject.. forgot to turn off caps

Curious as of late.. but it seems that IN THE PAST when moving a wall via a dimension, that most of the time any connected wall moved as well.. esp. exterior walls. Why doesn't it do this any more?

Actually these are two 20 year old's. They were looking for a tiny house, that you see on TV, but they realized those things are expensive.. so they went with the next best thing, a small build. Just not portable. They got some acreage and are going to live off the land as much as possible. Couto's for having a dream and going for it. Can't wait for my 28 year old to get her own place I typically make my interior doors 32", as well (36" on customers request), but since they are young, they were going to go "tiny", and the space for a extra 2" does change things. But since I've posted the plan, and updating the laundry, I have made all interior doors 30.

My engineer tells me that if its residential, an engineer is all you need. When I do light commercial, I need both. Hasn't got me in any trouble, so it must be true.

I actually like this better than vents in the doors/walls. Can put where needed. See, that what this forum is all about.. learn from others knowledge. Thanks

How does that work Ryan? Is it ducted via the attic? I attached the floor plan (haven't move HVAC, WH or added Mini yet), but wanted to show arrangement. The blue circle is where I had planned on for the mini.

Thanks all for your suggestions and info. Client loves the idea of the mini split, so will be moving WH to that niche, and getting her side by side back. Moving forward to complete construction docs. I am going to add some vents in doors for the mini to recirc.

North Florida.. Greenville area. They have already purchased a 40 gallon elect WH... otherwise I would have suggested. They've purchased a lot of things already, like the shower pan, fixtures, and I believe LP vertical panel siding, because he's animate about on using it.

Hi Adam, Where I lived before in Missouri, it wouldn't be required either. BUT here in FL., You will need that second set of eyes and that stamp, even though its not load bearing structure it still structure and could affect a high wind event.

:-)

Using the shelving has saved tons of time.. great tool It is limited though, no miter cuts.. always square - rectangular.

Well after I asked the question, my gut still wouldn't allow me to put off the bedroom, so I did create a little space for it. I had a hall laundry closet, that I stretched, pulled and moved around to get a utility space on the backside, I had to take away from the kitchen to do so though. I am trying to convince client, to go with mini splits to get some of that area back or get a bigger laundry for a side by side WD (as it was when located in the closet). I would think a 2 ton mini w heat pump would still be cheaper than a traditional HVAC unit. The house is 24' x 32'.