Joe_Carrick

One trick I sometimes use is to make a "Cabinet" with a blank front, no toe-kick and the countertop have 0 overhang. You can make the cabinet any height, width & length you need and just set the countertop and cabinet material to "tile".

Change the "Railing" to the same material and set the width to "Automatic"

Another method is the "Select Same" / "Load Same" tools.

John, Is there an actual floor structure behind the window or is it just a tall room? If you can post a plan, we would be able to give you more options.

Adam, In case you didn't catch my last comment: You can drag any line in the Schedule to a new position and it will renumber the Windows. IOW, if you drag W23 to just below W04 it will become W05.

There's a separate checkbox for "Include in Schedule". It's on the "General Tab" You can reorder the Labels by moving the Line in the Schedule. IOW, move W24 to the second position in the Schedule and it will renumber the Window.

OK, so here's one of my pet peeves. But I have so many...... If the cabinets that my company has started to sell can be provided with a face frame like this (totally customizable), why can't Chief produce the same thing? My ordering software can specify any number of openings up to 8 in any set of dimensions that I might want. Those can be specified as Open, Drawer, Left Door, Right Door, Butt Doors with overlays of 1/4", 1/2", 1-1/4", 1-3/8" or Inset. It's ridiculous that I can order anything with a manufactured tollerance of 1/16" but Chief can't even do it graphically.

I like my Driver Setting to be 240 yards with a slight draw. ;)

I actually hope that everyone does. I made it for my home which is undergoing renovation and remodel due to the fire back in December. It's kind of a neat symbol which adjusts to almost any size opening. If the opening gets taller than appropriate for 4 panels then it becomes 5, 6, 7 or however many is needed. The width is also adjustable but I wouldn't want a garage door more than 16' wide, not to mention that it might be very difficult to have one of this type bigger than that.

Here you go. Glass Garage Door.zip

I'm running 3 monitors HDMI1, HDMI2 & VGA. The HiRes 30" requires HDMI to get the full 2560x1620 resolution.

I'll post it this afternoon when I get home

See my specs in my signature. All together it was about $1800, including the monitors.

Do you want it to have an Aluminum Frame? I can provide you with one if you let me know more fully what you want.

I'm in a bit of a conundrum. We have a powder room that opens off of the den and it has a pocket sliding door. Naturally, it's open most of the time and the wife wants a hinged door so that it can be just slightly open when no one is in the powder room. The problem is that the room is only 3'-6" x 7'-0" and with a 28" door swinging into the room it would be very difficult for Perry to go into the room and close the door. I could swing the door out instead of in, but that doesn't seem like a good idea to me. What would you do?

What you are seeing there is the Door Jamb. Look in the Door dbx and uncheck the box that says "Has Jamb". The Interior and Exterior Casings can also be "suppressed".

Check any and all Views, including extents with all Layers turned on: Plan Views (all floors, including foundation and roof) Elevation Views Section Views CAD Detials etc. IOW, everything in the Project Browser Make sure you turn on all Layers and zoom to extents.

Each Schedule in the Plan will result in a set of Labels. Maybe you have a Schedule on another view or in a CAD Detail. IAE, there must be more thatn one schedule in your Plan File.

It's basically a Railing (Solid) but there is a "Half Wall Tool in the Walls Dropdown.Menu.

Glenn, One thing that I find is a problem is that I can't change the color of the material except by picking an individual framing member. Only after using the stud's dbx to change it's material can I the use the eydropper/spraycan to individually edit each of the other framing members. IOW, it's pretty tedious.

Glenn, That's pretty cool - great example for Kirk of what B&B is all about

I thought that Kirk was asking what sort of tool we'd like to ideally perform the job. I didn't realize he was just "fishing" for something to provide a work-around for

So I assume you are doing this on Plywood Siding. Another reason to have the ability to specify size and spacing.

Try this macro for riser height: inches =nR.floor frac =( (nR-inches)*16).round.quo(16) case when frac == 1 result = "#{inches + 1}" when frac == 0 result = "#{inches}" else result = "#{inches} #{frac}" end result This macro for number of treads: num_treads This macro for length of run: # Displays Stair Length (Total of Treads) nL = num_treads * tread_depth # Convert Decimal Values to Fractions inches = nL.floor frac =( (nL-inches)*16).round.quo(16) case when frac == 1 result = "#{inches + 1}" when frac == 0 result = "#{inches}" else result = "#{inches} #{frac}" end #Display Results 'Length = '+result+'"' and here's one for the total height of a run: arr =(total_risers*riser_height).divmod(12) inch_frac = ((arr[1]-arr[1].floor)*16).round.quo(16) result = case when inch_frac == 1.0 "#{arr[0]}'-#{arr[1].ceil}"+'"' when inch_frac == 0.0 "#{arr[0]}'- #{arr[1].floor}"+'"' else "#{arr[0].floor}'-#{arr[1].floor} #{inch_frac}"+'"' end result

Kirk, since you asked..... Something like the Corner Boards tool to apply the battens to the wall (3/4" x 2" at 12" oc is common but a set of defaults would be appropriate). Spacing is really based on the size of the Boards, so if 1x8 boards are being used then the spacing would be 8". If 1x12 boards are being used then the spacing would be 12". The battens should stop at window casings and aprons as well as at door casings. The advantage of such a tool would be that shadows would be cast by the battens depending on the sun angle rather than an arbitrary picture used as a texture where the shadows might be opposite of what the sun angle would dictate..