Alaskan_Son

I thought that at first as well, I even put it in my post but deleted it when I realized that it looked like those light were actually under the cabinets (from renderings in previous posts), and some of the light leaks were on the walls and not even near the cabinets.

I didn't mess around with it too much, and there's a lot that could be done to make it look nicer, but here's a 4 pass, just under 5 minute ray trace using your settings and plan with the following changes... -I deleted most things from the plan that weren't in view (if you do this, save the temporary plan with a different name before you start deleting stuff) -Under the lighting tab in the ray trace dbx I pretty much always uncheck "Use Camera View Settings" -I moved the added lights to behind the camera and deleted or turned off all ther rest (including the sun). Please note, turning the sun off isn't always necessary (and proabably wasn't in this case), it just helps sometimes (at least in past versions to get rid of some of those "light leaks". -Probably most notably, I built a quick roof on the plan. Not sure if the probelm was the missing roof or something else...at any rate, its nothing fancy, but hope that helps.

You made no mention of having tried turning off the sun. Have you tried that yet?

I can't speak for everyone but we do a lot of custom cabinetry and getting the cabinets drawn correctly (interior and exterior) can be very important at times...especially in order to communicate and detail exactly what we're looking for to the cabinet shop.

You could just be creepy : )

Lisa, Can you attach the plan? If so, I think we could help you get things fixed rather quickly. I think what you need to do is set the height off the floor, or offset from ceiling dimensions correctly for your pucks. It can also help in these situations to check "show position in camers view" so you see where the actual light source is. If the light source is offset from the fixture it could be buried and you may not really notice it.

If you're gonna do that, why not just use 2 drawers without hardware and then add the handles manually??

I just got back to my computer. It actually isn't quite as complicated as that. What you can do is... 1. Build cabinet exactly like you want it but with no handles... 2. Copy/paste in place, change upper drawer to an opening, and add handle to lower drawer placing it where you want it... 3. Copy/paste in place the new cabinet, change lower drawer to an opening, and change upper opening back to a drawer placing handle where you want it. 4. I would defintely uncheck "included in schedule", and would supress label for the latter 2 cabinets. This method has its obvious flaws but would also allow for different handles on the upper and lower drawers. You can also use a door for the lower drawer and that gives you independent control over the handle placement as well as the panel and handle style. Only drawbacks are the opening indicator is wrong (which I don't use anyway) and the auto label is also incorrect (which I don't use either). Either way, its a bit clunky. Hopefully we'll get something a little more awesome in X7.

This price seems a little low to me for a such a huge amount of work. For an extremely large consultation fee and a moderately high markup I think I could find an exorbitantly high priced architect to get them finished up to the point you could hire Scott at a relatively low rate to clean the plans up and add a few crappy ray traces to sweeten the deal.

Just spitballing here and I don't have my computer handy to test it, but how about remove the handles...copy and paste the cabinet in place...delete the top drawer...add a handle...change all materials to "no material" except the handle, set the handle to where you want it...copy and paste in place again and set handle separately for 2nd drawer.

2 other options... 1. Place the knobs manually 2. Adjust the height of the handles from top till they both work. I can usually get this to work close enough for most drawings.

I don't think you understood...if that polyline solid is on the second floor, the height would need to be 42" plus thje hieght of the first floor structure, first floor walls, and 2nd floor structure. Absolute elevation is always increasing starting at the bottom all the way to the top.

Don't know whether you're right or not, but good call sir. I wouldn't have thought of that.

You're right. I totally missed that. I didn't study it long enough.

I realize that. I was just making a point. I prefer to have the guy who actually built the system deal with any necessary service or repairs.

It looks like you're getting some light bleeding. Try turning off the sun before ray tracing and see if that helps.

I have my computers built and configured by a local "computer guy". That way you get exactly what you need, a little more money stays local, and your service is nearby instead of India.

So...I guess you won't be posting the plan.

I got similar results as you Lew. I have a feeling the file was exported incorrectly. And word on the street is that the best free AutoCAD-like software is DraftSight.

You're not forgetting things already are you?? I'm just kidding, but this quote is just begging for Scott to show up and start commenting on how old you are : )

Wow...that makes me feel special : )

Did you check your references?

Thats kinda what I was suspecting as well. Looks to be a little z-fighting on the edge of the sink like there are 2 countertops in the same general space.

Todd, Can you attach the plan? It will eliminate all the guesswork.

You might be suprised all the things you can make with little "cabinets". You can also use the slab tool, mouldings, framing, and any other number of tools to create those little parts. Once built I usually put them on their own "Custom cabinet parts" layer so they're not displayed in plan view.