Alaskan_Son

Todd, Its hard to tell whether we are getting through to you or not. It would be really nice if you would give us some feedback. It can really be frustrating to take a bunch of time helping people and never hear whether we fixed your problem or not, and if so, which solution it was...and maybe even a small thank you. The point of this forum is for us to help each other. Even if you don't have a lot to offer at this point in the way of advice, you could at least offer us some feedback as I mentioned above so we (and others) could all learn from it. With regard to your questions. Hopefully we answered number 2 above. As for number one...I would personally probably not use a railing wall as you did, but would manually use the edit handles and drag the wall down in plan view to make it shorter. There may be a better way, but that's my advice.

Thats bizarre. Never seen that before. How do you fix it? And could you attach the plan? I'm just curious to see whats going on.

Thank you for that explanation Jim. That makes perfect sense. I rarely use plans for displaying framing so I see why I haven't had an issue yet., and I can see now why "my" method (while fine for most situations) is really the wrong way. Good to know.

Optionally...see attached

And there's also the drywall to account for. The ceiling height is measured from the bottom of the rafter, not from the bottom of the drywall, so you would need to add an extra 1/2" to that ceiling height...195" 195" (the correct setting, give or take) minus 192-3/8" (what the lower edge of the ceiling in your plan was actually set to) equals 2-5/8" (your discrepancy).

I personally build ceilings exactly like you have and not per Jim's method (although I'm not knocking it at all). That's not your problem. Your problem is that your math and settings are incorrect... -Your ROUGH floor is at 133-3/4". Your finished floor is 3/4" thicker or 134-1/2". -The Outside Bottom Height of the ceiling plane I checked was set at 192-3/8" when it should be at least 194-1/2" (134-1/2"+60")

Maybe you can capitalize my name from now on in lieu of mailing me chili or sand.

They are the same method. Tommy's suggestion just encouraged a little more effort from the OP.

My mother is hispanic...grew up in New Mexico. I have the best of both worlds right here in Alaska. You can keep your chili Scott. Just mail me some warm sand and we'll call it even : ) Because you are definitely gonna lose.

I don't understand this statement. YOU have to set the heights for the custom ceiling plane. They're just set too low. Can you explain exactly how you set the ceilings up step by step?

Deal...try Tommy's version and see what happens. I would like Chili Colorado please.

I like Tommy's version better. Teach a man to fish...

Copy that : )

That still requires setting the ceiling plane height properly...which they aren't.

Todd, your ceiling planes were just set too low.

A huge thing to consider is how good you are at what you do. Seems to be totally diregarded by some people. One person may only be worth $25.00 an hour depending on how fast and knowledgeable he/she is. Another guy may know a lot more, have a lot more predawn details, and may be able to get the job done 4 times as fast. So that person may well charge $125 an hour and be the better deal.

I'm not so sure that's entirely true. I know a ton of the upgrades that at least attempt to automatically take place on my computer have nothing to do with security. And even then...the vast majority of software doesn't actually need to be connected to the Internet at all. Ironically a lot of programs ONLY make regular internet connections to look for updates (maybe even security upfates to make it safer to continue checking for updates). A ton of the updates are simply to keep up with other updates...to work better with new software A, to work better with new hardware B, to work better on new operating system C, etc. I might also add that many programs only update automatically if you allow them to do so, and I would suggest that if you want things to stay the same for a little while, cutting out the upgrade service may not be such a bad idea. I don't upgrade stuff all that often myself (except ESET which does so automatically) and I must say, I don't have a fraction of the issues I hear a lot of others have (needing to reboot, needing to find the latest drivers, needing to download drivers, needing to reinstall programs etc. My computer also works the same almost all the time.

It's because of this constant upgrade everything crap we have in our society. If you want it to stop, you basically have to stop upgrading stuff. One thing always leads to another… If it ain't broke… Hey, what the heck, fix it anyway. Edit: just to clarify, I'm not against improvement, I just don't know that it's always warranted with technology. Often times I think the cost outweighs the benefit. Sometimes it's just best to stop, live with the hardware and software you have for little while and then upgraded it all every so often. That way you deal with all the changes at once. Just my 3 cents.

Definitely don't attach the plan. That won't help.

Maybe you should post a plan with your issue. I just checked, and recessed lights WILL offset from ceiling just fine as I mentioned in my previous post. You just have to raise them up THROUGH that first "ceiling" using a NEGATIVE number. Not exactly intuitive, but it will get you what you want.

Adjust the height of the light fixture sir via Offset From Ceiling using a negative number.

1) It would be helpful if you would attach the plan 2) Select the room>Make Room Molding Polyline, and then select the molding lines around your shower (one by one), open the dbx and check "no molding on selected edge". That's one way anyhow.

I personally don't have much of a problem zooming and in and out with the scroll wheel while moving objects, however panning around the plan is a different story. Probably the easiest way is using hotkeys for zooming and panning. You can use the arrow keys to pan, and the / and - keys for zooming in and out.

Not at my computer at that moment, but I know I've used it for something else before. I want to say it was in CAD details using the Trim command.

Roberts solution may also work, and one other option that works decently well (but not great)... Checking Through Wall At Start/End for the walls (in the wall structure tab). This will likely leave one small section where one of the walls is butting into the drywall of another wall though.