Alaskan_Son

Yes. The floor joists will override the ceiling joists. At least in all my experience. I personally never make sure the ceiling framing settings match the floor above...never seemed to be a need for that.

Try this...Edit>Default Settings>Walls>General Wall and check "Auto Rebuild Attic Walls" On a side note, you should really watch some of the videos, read the manual(s), and utilize the Help files. The questions you've been asking lead me to believe you probably haven't done enough of the above.

You should really attach a plan to get a better answer. In the meantime, here's another guess... Did you make sure to open the room DBX and check "Roof Over This Room" in the structure tab?

Can you possibly be a little more specific? Not sure I understand the issue. Does the line move so that it is oriented at a 90 degree angle to where it was before or is it moving 90 degrees from where you want it to move, or...? And what technique are you using to "offset"?

Try searching arbor, pergola, or trellis instead of, or in conjunction with the words "wedding" or "arch".

Thanks for the compliment. To offset the arc, my instructions would be essentially the same... Method 1: A. Select the arc you want to offset B. Click "Copy and Paste in Place" C. Start dragging the line in the direction you want to move it using either; -the square edit handle to move an exact copy of the arc -the circular edit handle to move a concentrically resized copy of the arc and then hit tab. E. Enter you desired coordinates/dimensions Method 2: A. Select the arc you want to offset B. Click Transform/Replicate Object C. Check "Copy" and enter 1 in the Number of Copies field D. Check "Move" and enter the desired coordinates/dimensions Note: I'm not so sure you can use this method to create a concentrically resized copy of an arc Method 3: A. Select the arc you want to offset B. Click Multiple Copy C. Click Multiple Copy Interval D. Enter the Desired Dimension in the Primary Offset field (should already be highlighted) E. Drag the arc using either; -the circular edit handle to make concentrically resized copies -by the square edit handle to make exact copies in whichever direction you drag it -by the rotate edit handle to create exact copies that are rotated around the object center

Not sure if you watched my crappy video or not Jerry, but what I would normally do is... Method 1: A. Select the line you want to offset B. Click "Copy and Paste in Place" C. Start dragging the line in the direction you want to move it and hit tab. E. Enter you desired coordinates/dimensions Method 2: A. Select the line you want to offset B. Click Transform/Replicate Object C. Check "Copy" and enter 1 in the Number of Copies field D. Check "Move" and enter the desired coordinates/dimensions Method 3: A. Select the line you want to offset B. Click Multiple Copy C. Click Multiple Copy Interval D. Enter the Desired Dimension in the Primary Offset field (should already be highlighted) E. Drag the line using either; -the circular edit handle to move relative to the original line (if its drawn at an angle) -by the square edit handle to move in whichever direction you drag it -by the rotate edit handle to create a copy that is rotated around the object center There are probably other methods as well but those are the ones I would suggest.

One of the library items I attached earlier in the thread has the GFCI label still.

You should probably attach the plan. Seems to work correctly for me...

You are very welcome. Thank YOU for attaching the plan.

Spent a little more time today exploring the possibilities of using cameras to create custom guidelines, gridlines, bearing lines, etc. and made multiple changes to my post above based on my findings. Figured I should probably stop changing my post though in case anyone following this thinks they already read it. A few additional details/notes/tips... -The cameras are a little time consuming to set up due to the fact they cannot be copied, so it would definitely be a good idea to place them into your template plan. Its not a big deal to add one or 2, but creating a whole series of them takes a bit of time. If you're going to use the technique, it would probably be best to stack a whole bunch of them off to the side and top/bottom of your template plan, that way you can easily drag them over onto the plan as needed. -By locking the "Custom Grid" layer (or whatever else you call it), you can make it much easier to select objects without accidentally selecting the camera. -By unlocking the "Custom Grid" layer you can easily group select it along with a wall, post, etc. This could be extremely handy if moving a main bearing wall. This way your "Bearing Line" (or whatever you want to name it) moves along with it and the change is reflected across all floors. -You can easily group select your custom lines using the match properties tool and either move the entire reference grid or rotate it to a custom angle which is another useful feature altogether (the ability to have grids situated on 2 separate angles). -You can create multiple layers with grid lines serving different purposes on different layers so you can assign different colors, lock and unlock different groups, and to make it easier to select a specific group using the match properties tool. You know...maybe I should start a separate thread.

I see what you're trying to do now. Sorry, I wasn't fully undestandimg before. I thought you were simply trying to display items on multiple floors for construction documents. If I understand correctly, what you're really after is displaying items on multiple floors for purposes of following load paths? If so, here are a couple other ideas...neither of which are perfect solutions. 1. Consider the possibilities of using cut/copy in conjunction with paste hold position to move items from floor to floor...either the actual posts or just reference points/markers/grid lines of your choosing. 2. Consider using cameras. I messed around with this for a few hours today and there are a number of potential options. The most effective method I've found seems to be as follows... Create a series of floor cameras with long focal point lines stretched across your plan. Use them to create strategically placed grid lines or criss-cross them to create a specific reference point. Set them to display on all floors and then put them on their own unique layer and save them...possibly lock the layer as well if you want to keep from accidentally moving them. Unfortunately you cannot snap to the focal point lines, however you CAN center to them, align to them, and make parallel/perpendicular to them. Not the most ideal solution, but definitely a usable method to create reference points or grid lines across multiple floors. Here's a quick sample plan showing what I'm talking about. There's really no rhyme or reason to the design of the structure or to the labels...basically just wanted to demonstrate the "Custom Grid" possibilities. Cool thing is that you can VERY quickly move one or more of the custom grid lines and have the change reflected across all floors. This way, you could for example move one of the lines and cycle through multiple floors to see what affect moving one bearing point might have on the rest of the structure. Custom grid.plan

You can also simply use layersets and send multiple overlapped views to layout. It really doesn't have to be all that complex. Hide all your layers except the posts, roof planes, or whatever else you want displayed on any given floor and overlay that view onto whichever other floor you want.

You bet!

Sometimes maybe, it depends on what all is going on. Anyway, point is that there are purposes to breaking the elevation line (cutting around various fixtures, furniture, etc. while still leaving the callout label in place, AND without the extra lines cluttering up the plan.

Your attic walls are just set to invisible for some reason. Open the wall DBX and uncheck Invisible and you're good to go.

Thanks for attaching the plan : ) Someone should be along to help you here shortly. I personally haven't downloaded X8 yet (waiting for the public release so the kinks can be worked out) so I wasn't able to open it.

You know, come to think of it, you could also use another schedule if you're already using the plant schedule for something...furniture schedule maybe... or even an electrical, cabinet, or fixture schedule which all have quite a few options as to which items to display. I guess it might come down to which schedule or "Option To Include" that you're already using.

Took me a minute to figure out what you were trying to do, but if I'm understanding you correctly... There might be a better way, but you can try to use a Plant Schedule to get what you're after. Could use some refinement (I didn't spend much time creating a suitable plant) but here's a quick sample plan...Footing schedule.plan There are at least 1 or 2 videos out there on the subject too. Try searching for plant schedule and see what you get.

Have you tried messing around with the Reference Floor Display?

Can you attach a plan? Too many variables to makes guesses.

Curious...what would you want to do this for?

You're very welcome : )

Not really, no. The goal of breaking the cross section line is to get rid of all the messy extra lines created when cutting through adjacent cabinetry...

I'm resurrecting an old thread because I stumbled across a new piece of information. Had a situation where I needed to put 2 breaks in a cross section line... Moving the callout to either the left or the right and dragging back wasn't an option so I started digging a little deeper. Turns out, you can change the callout location to either left, right, or both sides, change the cross section line style to the blank line style and then change the callout location right back to centered. Very sneaky