Alaskan_Son

Okay, so you're question prompted me to make the jump to X8 this morning. Not sure if you're trying to build a base or wall cabinet, but I've attached a quick sample plan using a base cabinet (probably the more complicated option). I think the trick is to use a custom panel for the sides (thereby giving independent material control). If you're using library items for the door and/or drawer fronts you can just change the panel/door/drawer material to glass, but then the drawer box itself also changes to glass (probably not a problem for a wall cabinet). Cabinet test.plan

1. Click on "More Reply Options"... 2. Click on "Browse"... 3. Select whatever file you want to attach (screenshot, plan file, etc.)... 4. Click "Attach This File"... When you're all done, click "Add Reply"

Just a guess here, but you need to change the actual height of the text. Sounds like all you were doing was zooming.

Check out this thread to see if it helps you at all... https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/7978-object-snaps-strange/ Also, here's a quick and crappy video showing how you can use CAD detail from view for this purpose as well.

I've taken to using a separate demo plan as well. I draw up the as-built situation, do a Save-As and modify as necessary to create a demo plan. Then I take the demo plan, do another Save-As and modify as necessary for the proposed plan. Views from all 3 plans can be sent to the same layout.

I don't want to sound like a jerk Dan, I'm really just trying to be helpful...truth is that if you're not willing to help us help you by posting a plan that you're pretty quickly gonna burn some bridges around here. It may not be your intention, but as a group we end up spending an inordinate amount of time guessing at problems that are more often than not solved very quickly when a plan is attached. I've seen countless threads answered in mere minutes when plans are attached. I've also seen a ton of 10-15 post threads where the problem is never solved because there's no plan to look at.

Hey Dan, As the others have said, it would really best to attach the plan file. Its too difficult to tell simply based on screenshots exactly how you've constructed your model. There are just a ton of little variables that come into play. It looks like your problem is probably rooted in your wall definitions though. Again, attach a plan for a more accurate answer.

You betcha.

Use Edit>Edit Area Draw a marquis around your entire plan and then rotate it. Easy peasy.

Yes. That is correct. Just in case you (or anyone else reading this) don't realize it though...there's a "Make Room Polyline tool in the edit toolbar that makes this very quick and easy.

If your fill was created just using the room dbx, I'm not sure of another way other than creating another polyline for each individual door. What specifically is your goal with the particular details you're drawing up? Just in case there might be a possibility to use a different method.

Yep. Create a break in your room polyline and drag it over into the door...

I personally don't seem to have the problem you're describing. A few ideas though... -Is it possible you're inadvertently snapping to something thereby causing the behavior? -Try using the circular edit handle to create your multiple copies. It will force you to move those copies in a path perfectly perpendicular to the original line. -You can always hit tab during your move to make sure you're not veering off course.

You need to attach a plan, or at the very least a screenshot. I for one am all out of guesses and apparently have no idea what you are talking about.

Yes. The floor joists will override the ceiling joists. At least in all my experience. I personally never make sure the ceiling framing settings match the floor above...never seemed to be a need for that.

Try this...Edit>Default Settings>Walls>General Wall and check "Auto Rebuild Attic Walls" On a side note, you should really watch some of the videos, read the manual(s), and utilize the Help files. The questions you've been asking lead me to believe you probably haven't done enough of the above.

You should really attach a plan to get a better answer. In the meantime, here's another guess... Did you make sure to open the room DBX and check "Roof Over This Room" in the structure tab?

Can you possibly be a little more specific? Not sure I understand the issue. Does the line move so that it is oriented at a 90 degree angle to where it was before or is it moving 90 degrees from where you want it to move, or...? And what technique are you using to "offset"?

Try searching arbor, pergola, or trellis instead of, or in conjunction with the words "wedding" or "arch".

Thanks for the compliment. To offset the arc, my instructions would be essentially the same... Method 1: A. Select the arc you want to offset B. Click "Copy and Paste in Place" C. Start dragging the line in the direction you want to move it using either; -the square edit handle to move an exact copy of the arc -the circular edit handle to move a concentrically resized copy of the arc and then hit tab. E. Enter you desired coordinates/dimensions Method 2: A. Select the arc you want to offset B. Click Transform/Replicate Object C. Check "Copy" and enter 1 in the Number of Copies field D. Check "Move" and enter the desired coordinates/dimensions Note: I'm not so sure you can use this method to create a concentrically resized copy of an arc Method 3: A. Select the arc you want to offset B. Click Multiple Copy C. Click Multiple Copy Interval D. Enter the Desired Dimension in the Primary Offset field (should already be highlighted) E. Drag the arc using either; -the circular edit handle to make concentrically resized copies -by the square edit handle to make exact copies in whichever direction you drag it -by the rotate edit handle to create exact copies that are rotated around the object center

Not sure if you watched my crappy video or not Jerry, but what I would normally do is... Method 1: A. Select the line you want to offset B. Click "Copy and Paste in Place" C. Start dragging the line in the direction you want to move it and hit tab. E. Enter you desired coordinates/dimensions Method 2: A. Select the line you want to offset B. Click Transform/Replicate Object C. Check "Copy" and enter 1 in the Number of Copies field D. Check "Move" and enter the desired coordinates/dimensions Method 3: A. Select the line you want to offset B. Click Multiple Copy C. Click Multiple Copy Interval D. Enter the Desired Dimension in the Primary Offset field (should already be highlighted) E. Drag the line using either; -the circular edit handle to move relative to the original line (if its drawn at an angle) -by the square edit handle to move in whichever direction you drag it -by the rotate edit handle to create a copy that is rotated around the object center There are probably other methods as well but those are the ones I would suggest.

One of the library items I attached earlier in the thread has the GFCI label still.

You should probably attach the plan. Seems to work correctly for me...

You are very welcome. Thank YOU for attaching the plan.

Spent a little more time today exploring the possibilities of using cameras to create custom guidelines, gridlines, bearing lines, etc. and made multiple changes to my post above based on my findings. Figured I should probably stop changing my post though in case anyone following this thinks they already read it. A few additional details/notes/tips... -The cameras are a little time consuming to set up due to the fact they cannot be copied, so it would definitely be a good idea to place them into your template plan. Its not a big deal to add one or 2, but creating a whole series of them takes a bit of time. If you're going to use the technique, it would probably be best to stack a whole bunch of them off to the side and top/bottom of your template plan, that way you can easily drag them over onto the plan as needed. -By locking the "Custom Grid" layer (or whatever else you call it), you can make it much easier to select objects without accidentally selecting the camera. -By unlocking the "Custom Grid" layer you can easily group select it along with a wall, post, etc. This could be extremely handy if moving a main bearing wall. This way your "Bearing Line" (or whatever you want to name it) moves along with it and the change is reflected across all floors. -You can easily group select your custom lines using the match properties tool and either move the entire reference grid or rotate it to a custom angle which is another useful feature altogether (the ability to have grids situated on 2 separate angles). -You can create multiple layers with grid lines serving different purposes on different layers so you can assign different colors, lock and unlock different groups, and to make it easier to select a specific group using the match properties tool. You know...maybe I should start a separate thread.