Alaskan_Son

You need to close the file before you zip it. Also...to get the file size down, consider delete any unnecessary objects from the file and doing a save as of the trimmed down plan file.

All you should need to do is drag those 4 little short walls through so that the join into the exterior walls. Eric and Chopsaw's solutions are both good as well. Really just depends on works works best for you and for the individual situation.

No...we are talking about the same thing. I just may not have described it properly I guess. I was saying almost the exact same thing you just said in your last post. When I said that the 3D plants used images with transparent backgrounds, I was really just referring to the material definition same as you. Instead of deleting the texture file though I was suggesting to change the material altogether and I also added the idea of possibly making the material semi-transparent. I do like your idea of just deleting the texture file though. That's a pretty quick method.

Most of those 3D plants use images with transparent backgrounds. Just change the material to a solid color and see if that works for you (with or without transparency).

I don't think there is any right answer. I think you're just going to have to figure out what works best for you. Just a reminder though about one feature we have that may get overlooked pretty easily... You can always place objects onto their own unique layers and either check or uncheck material list for that particular layer in any given layer set. Just remember that your material list will generate based on the settings in your current layer set.

I downloaded that library Johnny and the door looks just fine on my end. So does that pull. And they work fine together as well. Not sure what the deal is. One of the 2 must have been corrupted on your system somehow though.

That pull works just fine for me. I suspect it may actually be the Bella Drawer front that is the problem. Where did you get that? I don't have it in my library. Try to copy and paste that drawer front to your user library (assuming its from a bonus or manufacturer library), right click and Open Symbol in the library, and check what the bounding box depth is. I suspect its probably less than 3/4" (which is probably roughly what it SHOULD be. If my suspicion is correct, you should report it to tech support. In the meantime, you'll just have to modify and use the drawer front from your user library. You'll have to modify it first though... Take a cross section of that cabinet and measure how deep that drawer front is. Open Symbol in your user library and set the Bounding Box Depth to match that number. Replace the drawer front with the new one from your user library.

There still doesn't seem to be any usable information in your attachment. There is still a file with no information and the only file that contains any data is not a valid file type. Actually...that file has NO file type. I'm wondering if perhaps you're not just dealing with a corrupt font file that happened to work okay for a while.

Chris, I think you'll need to first zip your font file and then attach it. What you attached doesn't contain any information.

I'm away from my computer so I cant test this, but one of the first things I'd recommend you do is check to see if there's an attic wall in that area. If there's not, either turn auto attic walls back on or manually draw your own. If there IS, it may be an invisible wall...delete it and it should revert to a normal attic wall.

Nope. As long as that main layer thickness is actually .01" ( which it may be… hard to tell unless you change your number style to decimal inches) you should be good with that.

To add to what Eric suggested. I would recommend all users add their own Room Divider wall type that has a thickness of something like .01". This wall type can be used to define a room without changing size on you, and can more effectively be used for things like the above example as it will give you something to snap you main layer to suing the Edit Wall Layer Intersections tool...

2 things... 1. I would recommend you use the term Rich Text as only other AutoCAD users will likely understand what Mtext means. 2. Chief basically has 2 different macro types...Global, and User Defined. Global macros have some unique subsets of macros that recognize WHERE in the plan they exist. One of those subsets is something some of us refer to as "room context". This is how the global Room Info macros work...they recognize the room they were placed in and report the appropriate value. Currently we cannot use a User Defined macro in this same manner and so we're limited to using the OOB global macros for any room information we want to use in a standard text box or a rich text box. I'm pretty sure I could get around this by writing to and reading from an external text file (which I've done in the past in order to create some automated room numbering) but that would require some pretty complex macros and methods. This is the reason Joe, myself,and probably Gerry and others have requested in the past that we be given a Room Context for User Defined text macros so we could create our own custom macros that could be used in Text and Rich Text boxes for use as room labels.

Here's a quick example plan and layout using a method you can use to essentially create a Rich Text version of those room labels... Alan's example.plan Alan's example.layout I went over the basics of the method in another thread over in the Tips and Techniques section but essentially you need to: Use a custom macro in the default room label (I just used a modified version of the macro BT posted above for this example that is set to display only the room name when the layer set includes the number 2). Use a solid fill in your default room label (not actually necessary but the technique gets a fair bit more complicated if you don't do this). Set up a couple different room label text styles (one for the room name and another for the ceiling height). Overlap a couple layout boxes in layout using 2 different layer sets (one with nothing but room labels being displayed. Move the appropriate layout box to the front group, and shift it up or down as necessary to get the appropriate text spacing (this step isn't actually absolutely necessary either, but then again the technique starts to get a bit more complex). Once you figure it out, its actually a lot faster and easier than it sounds.

Actually, all you have to do is open the room and then click okay and it will update to reflect the new default room label.

The problem you're having is that Chief will not actually snap to the interior edge of the casing. Your dimensions for your window are snapping to the outside of the frame and the dimensions for your door are snapping to the inside of the frame.

You just need to go into your Plot Plan Text Defaults and change the layers there.

The answer is complex... -You can use referenced macros along with standard Text or Rich Text boxes as Eric suggested but I much prefer to stick to using owner context macros whenever possible and I'll give you some ways to do that below... -Referenced macros won't work for room labels but depending on what you need to display, you can use standard Text or Rich Text boxes along with Chief's built in Global Room Info macros -Here's something that works with normal non-referenced labels but it only works in layout... Place objects for which you would like to have different colored labels onto different layers and only display one group of those objects using one specific color for the labels (done by changing the color for the labels' layer). Send your view to layout Copy/paste in place your layout box Create a unique layer set for that second layout box where all layers are turned off except for your next group of items for which you would like the next color, and then change the labels' layer to the appropriate color. Hope that made sense. If not, let me know what doesn't and I'll try to clarify a bit.

As Glenn and Johnny already pointed out, there are several other ways to get that type of information. In addition to what they said you can also use a framing schedule or a custom macro solution. If however you still really want the skewed projection you speak of, you can do this... Turn off all layers except those that you actually want to show Convert the whole plan to a symbol Rotate the symbol onto its side using the Symbol Specification Rotation settings Create a section view for each roof plane (may require rotating the symbol more than once depending on the model) You could also optionally create separate symbols for each and very roof plane using layer settings, the Delete Surface tool, or by copying and pasting each individual plane to a blank plan. You can then do the same thing I went over above...Rotate the symbol and then just use a section view.

Is it possible you've made this change AFTER building your trusses? If so, group select all your trusses and rebuild them. There are a number of ways to do this, but you can either Force Truss Rebuild or you can even just Cut/Paste Hold Position.

You must be. All you need to do is select "Square" here... If you do so in the Build Roof DBX, you must either "Build Roof Planes" afterward or have "Auto Rebuild Roofs" selected... You can also just select "Square" directly in the individual roof plane DBX(s).

Good tip Dermot. I missed this the first time I read through the thread or I may not have even added my own side panel suggestion to the video. That being said... Just a quick note for anyone following along. I used a different and seemingly less efficient method in my video. I essentially created a custom door front and used that instead. I think its worth noting that if you use a door front from the library by Specifying an Appliance/Door/Drawer here... ...you get 2 added benefits: You can control your panels on a side by side basis. You can create more accurate drawings by actually using the proper thickness material and then modifying the Y origin offsets as I demonstrated in the video to properly locate the panel in relation to the frame. The method Dermot mentioned is quicker and easier for most situations. It just might be a bit more limiting.

Here's a quick video going over how I would probably handle the aforementioned challenges.... If you find the video helpful enough, please consider sending a donation my way. Thanks : )

Only the STRUCTURE settings need to be super thin. On my personal plans, and per Chiefs OOB settings that means only the framing layer. And no...If you're using trusses then there's really no need to change the structure back. It can just stay at that nearly zero value. Only reason to change any settings would be if you wanted to stick with the automatically created truss profiles in which case you would need to turn off auto roofs and change the top chord dimension back. You'll need to just try it out and see what works for you.

I agree, it would be nice to simply set a heel height instead of what most people are doing by going out of their way and figuring the appropriate birdsmouth cut settings or figuring the appropriate Raise/Lower From Ceiling Height setting. In the meantime, there are a few things you can do in order to directly enter a heel height... In the Build Roof DBX, uncheck Trusses, and then click on the Structure tab and change the Roof Layers Structure to something like .001". Doing this will allow you to use EITHER the Raise/Lower From Ceiling Height setting, or the Raise Off Plate value as a heel height. In the Build Roof DBX, check Trusses and in your Build Framing DBX>Trusses, change the top chord to .001". This will also allow you to use the aforementioned settings for direct heel height entry but will also require that you open up your trusses and change the top chord and/or that you turn off auto roofs. If you're using the workaround in my OP then this is really a non-issue as you'll need to open up and change the trusses anyway. Pick your poison. As I recall there are benefits and drawbacks to each. Not sure I understand. Can't you just change the material settings for your trusses? Just create your own SPF material type and assign that to your trusses. If you really want to see these changes please report it to tech support and/or post a suggestion over in the suggestion forum; otherwise, you'll likely never get what you want.