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Everything posted by Alaskan_Son
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There are several methods, but I think the vast majority of us do it with 3 plan files as both you and Dennis have alluded to. The basics: Draw As-Built plan. Name it "As-Built". Save. Use "As-Built" plan but Save As "Demolition". Create a CAD Detail From View of your floor plan(s), modify and delete items as necessary, put all the line work onto a unique layer, paste hold position and move to back group. This will allow you to both see and display the as-built items if desired. Modify plan as necessary to create demolition plan. Save. Use "Demolition" plan but Save As "Proposed". Modify plan as necessary to create Proposed plan. Save.
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You aren't exploding the block when you drop it in your plan.
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Thinking of upgrading my MAC COMPUTER, should I?
Alaskan_Son replied to dshall's topic in General Q & A
32 GB and SSD...no doubt. -
Those actually aren't beams, those are soffits. You can consider using actual Beams, polyline solids, slabs, solids, etc. And you can also block that soffit and it will behave better. You can also draw them 3-1/4" wide instead of 3-1/4" deep. That's about all I have for you though. I actually almost never use soffits for anything. I've never understood while so many users like them so much.
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I don’t personally need this texture, but I wanted to thank you for sharing anyway George. Awful kind of you.
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I’m away from my computer now, but no... you should not have to cut and steal from the same wall type. You should be able to take the hatch and put it in ANY wall type. The reason I suggested maybe having a series of walls was for the hatch FILL as an alternative to the palette idea.
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Here it is...
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Try using the Hatch Wall tool. I think I made a video a while back. I'll see if I can find it.
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Nice video Lavor : ) Thank you for bringing this up too. This was a fabulous challenge that really peaked my interest and so I decided to make a video of my own with my take. I would highly encourage anyone and everyone to watch this one. I think there’s some pretty good stuff in here...
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I think we're talking about 2 different things here: PLAN VIEW: Walls, Normal layer controls the display of the wall and all its framing. If that layer is not on, the wall will not show...at all. If that layer is on AND Walls, Main Layer Only is on, then just the main layers will display. If Walls, Layers is also on, then you will also see the various layer breaks (if you have multiple main layers); otherwise you will just see the wall outline. 3D VIEWS: None of those special layers have any affect. They are for Plan View display only. Turning Off Walls, Normal just turns the wall display off completely. If you happen to have wall framing that will still show as it is being controlled by the framing layers.
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I tested this one out ^^^ and it seems to be very easy to use and quite powerful. I've tested some of the others in the past too but they were much more limited and much less intuitive. If you know somebody with AutoCAD, they also have lisp routines that can can convert line work to patterns.
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Good tip. Either that or grab your Chief Window by the top bar and drag it over to the edge of your screen (same as your solution but with the mouse). You can do the same thing with your other window to get it onto the opposite side of the screen.
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Exactly the same thing we do around here 90% of the time too except that the header is usually a 4x12 and the lower 2x6 doesn't continue over the top of the trimmer...
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I'm probably preaching to the choir here, but just in case (for you or anyone else reading along), this is what the Truss base tool was created to do. its like a special roof plane that stops trusses below from framing into roof plane above and visa versa. Now getting the overframe framing correct is a whole different ball of wax. It's a little time consuming, but one of my currently preferred methods for both ease and 3d accuracy is to just use trusses for all of it. The overframe portion is very easy to do with trusses. Once the overframe trusses are in position, lock truss envelope and no special snapping (X10), open truss detail, delete unnecessary parts and pieces from the valley trusses, and optionally adjust the framing as much as you see fit. For the ridge beam use a roof beam with a custom rafter tail. For the ledgers, kickers, or whatever those things are called...a couple 3D boxes. Build one, rotate in elevation, rotate in plan, move into proper position, boolean operations to trim; and then copy paste in place, and reflect about to create the second... Overframe example X10.plan Not super easy although its not really all that bad with a little practice. I just can't stand it when something isn't accurate enough to take a 3D view of something without having to say things like "this won't really look like that".
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Are you talking about the header or its label?
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Missing items in X10 Preferences and Components dbx
Alaskan_Son replied to ambrozac's topic in General Q & A
No, I added that. I was just referring to the description field problem you mentioned. -
You can always just add the modified symbol to your user library or even to your toolbar.
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Missing items in X10 Preferences and Components dbx
Alaskan_Son replied to ambrozac's topic in General Q & A
I may be misunderstanding but I don't have this problem... -
I think Joe is probably right, I think I've actually made several videos going over this process in that past, but here's another, for your specific situation...
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Yep. That's one of the methods I was referring to that will also cut the hole. You could also set to be a Window Symbol, or use the Inserts into Wall method along with the new Edit Wall Cutout Polyline tool...one of the most fabulous new X10 features.
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Quite a lot of options actually, some of which could cut the hole for you too, but here are a few pretty simply solutions to directly address your question... In X10 you can set the object to Inserts Into Wall. In the Depth field just enter something like .01. It will still show as zero unless you have you Number Style set to decimal inches but it should do the trick. Place the object into a blank plan and Export 3D Model (3DS should do the trick). Then import the model. During the import process, specify the object to be a CABINET. You'll probably need to open the object in your library and delete the countertop. Just block the object. Chief treats Architectural Blocks just like like cabinets in many ways...cutting trim is one of them.
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You actually didn't need to do the second step. Simply converting to a polyline solid is enough...converting to any polyline based object for that matter...faster then the method I showed in the video above too.
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If you just learned that than I suspect you may have been missing out on some pretty great functionality elsewhere too. You can actually use ANY polyline based object along with any other polyline based objects. You can subtract a roof shape from a polyline driveway, you can combine a custom countertop shape with a slab, you can find the overlapping union of a landing with a room molding polyline, etc. etc. Just remember that the object you start with is the type of object that will remain, get extended, etc.
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Correct. The problem is that the circle is not a polyline until you do so. Here's another quick tip...
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You didn't need to convert them to p-solids, you needs to convert the circles to polylines.
