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Everything posted by Alaskan_Son
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The pony wall just needs to have a reduced or removed interior drywall layer is all. And P.S. If you use a casing with a profile kinda like this... along with an appropriate rough opening dimension around the door, you can actually get the automatic recess too. Adding a custom color in the groove around the door isn't so auto using this method though... Okay, I'm done with this particular discussion for now. WAY too easy to spend too much time messing around with and discussing the methods for this type of thing.
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No need for the negative offset if you use the pony wall approach if the molding is supplied by the room.
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Update video card driver. If that doesn't fix it, possibly roll back video card driver. Could also just be an insufficient video card, not sure. At any rate, you should be able to fix no matter what by opening those offending windows and doors, clicking on the label tab, and selecting "Hide In This View". This can be made easier and quicker by temporarily dragging/relocating the camera so that you can actually see and select the offending objects or by simply using the Delete Surface tool.
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Go to the second floor and make that room "Open Below".
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Sorry David, I don't think there is any "easy" way. All the methods are going to be pretty time consuming. One of those situations where you have to ask yourself how important it really is to model in 3D.
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Hi Casey, I have personally used molding lines (along with custom moldings and molding symbols), and architectural blocks for this type of thing where most all the necessary parts and pieces are distributed automatically when the molding lines are resized and they display like we want in plan view as well... It's not something I'm going to spend the time or energy to spell out here on the forum, and it wouldn't be free, but shoot me an email if you want to discuss further and we can set something up. Here's a quick tip for your specific question on the house though: Symbol... Molding Polyline (no molding assigned)... Architectural Block with shelving layer turned off and both block and molding layers turned on)... One object to keep track of and only one line displayed.
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I always just draw a polyline and then use polyline subtraction to remove a section of the roof from the middle--thereby breaking into 2.
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VIDEO LESSON: Dormers - Manual/Automatic
Alaskan_Son replied to SNestor's topic in Tips & Techniques
Even when we know how it's done, its nice to see it done in a clean, orderly way. It's refreshing and reminds us how it could and should be done. And for people who don't know how its done? That much more helpful. Good job. -
Is there a way to point the camera down for birds eye view?
Alaskan_Son replied to rockyshepheard's topic in General Q & A
Doesn't have to be an ortho view. It could be any non-cross section/elevation camera. -
Terrains are all about: Giving Chief the correct elevation data to work with Giving Chief enough elevation data to work with Not giving Chief conflicting or confusing elevation data (i.e. overlapping data or data placed too close together) Understanding the difference between defining your terrain (i.e. elevation data) and modifying the defined terrain (i.e. terrain modifiers).
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I really think you're asking in the wrong place. Completely depends on your climate, the home's construction, the lengths of the various runs, the sizing of the ducts, heating/cooling units specs, etc., etc. This is a question for your mechanical contractor or mechanical engineer IMO.
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This is a confusing statement. I think it's worth clarifying that a wall set to be a Terrain Retaining Wall includes a Terrain Break as part of the wall itself. There should be no reason to have both. Now if you're talking about a Terrain Wall or a normal wall/railing along with a standalone Terrain Break, that's a different thing.
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Yep. That's a strange one.
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VIDEO LESSON: Chimney Tip - Porch Railing Tip
Alaskan_Son replied to SNestor's topic in Tips & Techniques
Nice job Steve. Not sure the quality of your videos is good for my self esteem, but thanks for sharing -
The thing new users typical miss is that you have to select the edge that you want to join to another edge. Next click Join Roof Planes, and lastly, pick the edge that you want to join to.
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2 problems jump out... 1. You have soffits set to be 6" thick. This may or may not be correct. 2. You have gable sub fascia that is the exact same height as the gable fascia. The subfascia should prolee be smaller than the fascia.
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Hi Ed, What you probably did was select the ROOM and not the wall. Next time, click to select the room and then either hit tab or click the Select Next tool to get to the wall. You can tell which object is selected by looking down in the lower left hand corner of your screen.
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Sorry, I think tech support was mistaken. You control the skylight material defaults in the Roof Defaults. I think this is just one instance where Chief probably shouldn't even have the Use Default option available since this location is the lowest level setting. In other words, I would put it like this... You found the default setting. Chief just probably needs to remove the option to Use Default for that particular item.
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I use Snagit.
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Modifying room label with additional text
Alaskan_Son replied to madcowscarnival's topic in General Q & A
...now turn off the Rooms, Interior Dimensions Layer as Eric showed. -
You could make that door from scratch in a New York minute. I’m away from my computer so I can’t check, but I think I made one just like that for @Rosco2017. Maybe check with him.
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Not at all good sir : )
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Is there an additive measurement tool in Chief?
Alaskan_Son replied to Clarice's topic in General Q & A
A lot of great options in Chief. Material lists, schedules, macros, polylines, etc. ...and many ways to very quickly manipulate the results with spreadsheets. There is no specific running total tool though.- 6 replies
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- take off tools
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Keeping Stair Sections From Merging Into A Single Section
Alaskan_Son replied to EconBlueprints's topic in General Q & A
Ya, that works, but for me it's actually even slower than my 16 click process even though it CAN take less clicks. And it actually only takes less clicks if your stairs don't require opening up and changing settings again afterward (which is one of the main reason to want to save and re-use your work). Seems like it should be a lot easier. -
Keeping Stair Sections From Merging Into A Single Section
Alaskan_Son replied to EconBlueprints's topic in General Q & A
Here's a quick challenge. I have a set of stairs drawn in this plan. Assume they took forever to get properly positioned and sized but that you want to disconnect the upper section so that you can do something a little differently... Stair test.plan What's the quickest (if any) method you can find to simply disconnect the one section. The fastest method I know of requires no less than 16 clicks to start with the section you see on the left and arrive at the result you see on the right.