DBCooper

Maybe... but I would still bet good money that when you sent your original elevation to layout that the layout box was automatically sized to just go to the wall sides and then when you added your elevation dimensions that they were outside of your walls and therefore outside of the layout box and clipped out of the view. This is a very common gotcha and why both I and Adam suggested selecting the layout box and making it bigger. Resending views will solve almost all problems but many times it is not actually needed.

You can make a wall any height you want by selecting it and then dragging the top down. Generally, you want to control wall heights through the room heights but if you are modeling a free-standing masonry wall then adjusting the height seems fine. You can also use a solid railing instead of a fence. These come with a wall cap by default that you may or may not want. You could remove it if you don't want it. If you have terrain, you could also use a terrain wall. These will follow the terrain though and this may or may not be what you want. There are probably a lot of other ways to create a wall not using the wall tools. Although when all is said and done, I'm not sure that creating a copy of the brick material and rotating is really a problem either. Picture below shows a normal brick wall with the height lowered, a solid rail, and a terrain wall (going over a bump).

@Charlie Have you tried updating your libraries? Just click on the "update" button at the bottom of the browser. I noticed this problem and after I updated the libraries it went away.

Not me. I think I am still on the no fly list.

I would bet that "reset dialog sizes" brings it back. If not, then I would try "side windows", "toolbars", "message boxes"... And if none of that worked, I would reset all preferences as a last ditch effort.

Some times you can make changes to the model to remove the stray lines. For example, if you have stray lines on something like a counter top, you can often get rid of them by using a custom counter top instead. Some of these lines can be caused by bad wall connections.

Is it possible that your dimensions are being displayed outside the area of the layout box? Try selecting the layout box and making it larger. Is it possible that your dimensions are on a layer that is turned off in the layer set being used on the layout? This could be a different layer set than the one you are using in the elevation. Did you send the elevation to the layout as an image? Images won't update when you make changes to the view. If it is not one of these, then you might need to post your plan.

OK, I stand corrected. You can't make a "curved wrapped stair" but you can create a "segmented" or "faceted" wrapped stair that might look pretty close to a curve. Nice job Adam. I learned some new tricks. I still might want to use separate landings though since I feel like I have more control over them.

Actually, you might want to check out this support article: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-03107/creating-a-stair-rake-wall.html

When you select the living area and delete it, the program automagically turns it off in your general plan defaults. If you want it back, you need to turn it back on manually. This also means that you don't need to use "plan check" to get it back now.

Camera dialog.

Try turning it on in the "general plan defaults"

I think Glenn is right, I don't think you can make a curved wrapped stair. Another way of doing it would be to use individual landings for each step. A landing can be any shape you want.

Looks like a case for rope lighting. Might want to check out this video: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/70/rope-lighting.html As for "up" lighting, you could modify one of the puck lights from the library so that it (and the light source) are both facing up. You can flip it upside down in the "open symbol" dialog and then adjust the light in the "open object" dialog. You might be able to use a cabinet soffit and then place the light on top of it. You could probably also use a molding but you will then need to position the light manually. As for your wall niche being too thin, did you know you can set the depth in the dialog? I don't think it can be deeper than the wall but you can set it to anything less that the wall thickness. If you want to make an actual hole in the wall, you could probably just use a pass-thru.

Like Mick said, you can use Chief on either a mac or pc or both (just not at the same time). Make sure whatever computer you buy will meet the system requirements: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/products/sysreq.html Chief also has a blog article with some tips for buying a new computer: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/blog/computer-for-design-and-gaming/

Did you make the "open below" room by changing the room type to open below or did you place a hole in the floor/ceiling? Might also want to check either the floor below or floor above. Again, if you want anything other than a semi-random guess, you should post the plan.

Couple of things... First, there is an option for mulled units called "treat as door" that will make the unit act more like a door. Second, if you want to show either door open in a camera view, you just need to use the tab key to select it. This allows you to have one or both open and you can even have them open different amounts. Still might be nice if we had the ability to set the width of each component for a double door, just like we can for window components.

You could go through the "open symbol" dialog and change an outlet from being "wall mounted" to being "floor mounted". You could also put it on a fake wall and mark the wall as invisible. But why not just use electrical schedule with the actual outlets that are in the plan?

You have a symbol in your plan, K-10493 (possibly a kohler toilet?), that has more than 65,535 vertices. 3DS export doesn't like this. My guess is that it doesn't show up when you open the 3DS file in another program but maybe it shows up and is missing pieces. One way you may be able to fix it is to replace the symbol with a generic one that has less surfaces. I suppose you could also break the symbol up into two or more separate symbols but this would be a little bit more involved.

One way to find things like this is to turn off all layers and then turn on each layer one at a time. Since ceiling/platform holes will normally be put on your cad default layer, I would start with just turning on that layer to see if you can find it. The other thing you can do is post your plan (or a link to it) on this forum. One of the more experiences users will probably be able to find it pretty quickly. And if you are lucky, they will tell you how they did so that you will learn a trick or two.

Have you tried %description%?

You need to use "open symbol" instead of "open object". Seems really silly that we have both of these dialogs and we should just have one. It's also easy to find in help by searching for "flush mounted".

In X14, all you need to do is copy this into your door label: %width.to_s("'-\"")% x %height.to_s("'-\"")% I got this from calling tech support and talking to someone that really knows how this stuff works.

Ok, TT. I imagine it's really hard to find clubs short enough for those little green arms of yours. You can turn off normal auto fillers and/or the corner join fillers. Not sure what else you want but sounds like you might want to make a feature suggestion. And while we are speaking of feature requests, I think what would be really useful for cases like this is if we could just go ahead and edit the shape of a cabinet just like a polyline.

I have found that when cabinets are joined front corner to front corner that they work best when you make sure the corners are lined up perfectly. The program seems to allow them to join even when you are sloppy though (like t-time said, any time they are within 3" or so). Reasons why they might not join would be things like they are not the same type of cabinet, using architectural blocks, not oriented the same way, and who knows how many other things might cause this. You can also turn off the ability to corner join in the general cabinet defaults but since they are joined on one side but not the other, this doesn't seem like the case. You should either post the plan or send it to Chief if you want a better answer. BTW, even if you get the cabinets to join at the corners, there will still be holes in the tops and bottoms that might show up in camera views. For some reason, the program does not fill these spaces even though it looks like it should from a plan view. If you need to show a solid top, you might have to go ahead and use a poly-solid to cover these holes.