Kbird1

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Everything posted by Kbird1

  1. Kbird1
    the picture is too small to see any details , post the plan.... did you raise the roof after the fact ? is auto roof off and needs an update? framing needs a rebuild? ....... too much guessing as you can tell M.
  2. Kbird1
    I don't think you are using X9
  3. Kbird1
    that was why I was curious , it always seemed to be in the way , so my current Template Plan doesn't have one.... M.
  4. Kbird1
    There are two Tutorials in the KB on doing this if you need more instruction ? it is what CA calls a Cape Cod.... https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00653/building-a-cape-cod-roof-that-bears-on-the-1st-floor-walls.html https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00772/building-a-cape-cod-roof-by-adjusting-ceiling-heights.html
  5. Kbird1
    I was thinking the same thing , the stairs look fairly narrow , but hard to tell where there go or what for , in those few pics...
  6. Kbird1
    Thanks Robert
  7. Kbird1
    Check that you still have Room Definition on the Deck etc , as everything appears to be float now and it looks like you need you Guard rails set at 42" to match the 36" sloped rails. M.
  8. Kbird1
    Hi , 8 lights is the current CA limitation ( part of OpenGL ) but changes in X10 to unlimited at the expense of performance Spot lights are best , Point lights really effect RT times , if you open the Light's DBX and turn on the Indicator on the Light Data tab you will get the blue Arrows in the Pic below which is helpful I find when doing a RT. The red cross shows it's on the blue arrow the direction . You can group select the lights using the Light Adjust Tool (light bulb icon) and switch them on and off as a group , or use the adjust button and group select to make changes like the Light Indicator on or off. Mick.
  9. Kbird1
    Not if it is not in the Legend , not that a couple of feet in the legend is enough to throw the ML off enough to effect anything as far as pricing goes. And it would still be in the drop down though for use if needed. I just tried it you can actually drop it in from the Library , then delete the wall you drew and it will remain in the Wall Types Dropdown List , and doing this in the Template, then saving it, means you will always have it accessible. How are you doing your legend out of interest? M.
  10. Kbird1
    I found had to Rename the Wall in the Wall Type Dropdown , resave it to the Library and then it used the Correct name in the Dropdown , so I updated the files above , I guess you can rename it that way to anything you like too ..... I guess if you dropped it into your Template Plan it would always be available Correct?
  11. Kbird1
    I looked at that , even tried a brand new blank plan and got the same thing.... this is Matt's main walls ...siding 6
  12. Kbird1
    Chopsaw , I just updated my files above as I noticed the new Wall was not reporting correctly in the Wall Type Drop down box , it should now show in the Wall Types Dropdown as 6 x 8 Piling Wall. better to to get the new file if you tried the old one, as I think the old one was using one of your standard wall names xxxx.x.4_ND ? which may mess your Wall Types up , not sure ? I guess you know that once you draw the 1st section of wall in the Plan , it is then available to edit via the normal dropdown too? M.
  13. Kbird1
    Chopsaw's Symbol is just used as another Option on the Newels >Type list as it includes the 10" diameter Concrete Pile and the 4x4 Post , could have a Saddle I guess but looks good. M
  14. Kbird1
    Very Nice Chopsaw , thanks for the Stump Symbol too, makes this easy to setup, this method seems to work great.... I haven't experimented enough to find out what the downsides are if any yet?..... Not sure what you mean by " Too bad that railing walls can't be saved " though , I made some changes , so they were how I'd want to see the Pilings and Beams in 3D, and changed a few of the railing settings eg no half post and saved the Wall to the Library, and was able to reuse the New Pilings Wall ( as I called it ) in a new plan. Here is my Plan and the new Wall type to look at : Treated Pilings Wall.calibz Piling Wall Plan.plan
  15. Kbird1
    You are right , for some reason the Poly Solid won't hold the Mirror material , if the Solid isn't rectangular in shape , The easy Fix was to add a 1/8" thick 3D Box in Front of the Solid and Rotate it to the same angle as the Solid ... 5° I think? Since I had it made, I blocked it and then dropped it into a Blank plan and made a symbol out of it for you, hope it helps.... Angled Mirror_MHD.calibz
  16. Kbird1
    They look pretty good considering you just started with CA didn't you? You need to check the Light DATA for each light and turn on the indicator in camera views so you can tell which way the light shines , as it appears the pendants aren't set to shine down ( ring on ceiling) or perhaps there are too bright (wattage) and possibly your pucks in the glass door cabinets are slightly too high? or they are the wrong puck and shining up? it appears light is escaping the top of the Cabinet.... Currently only 8 lights are actually used, in RT, so you may need to turn some off , so others will come on.... the Indicator helps with that or even turn the Potlights (cans) off and add your Own 3D Light Sources instead. If you turn ALL the light OFF CA will add one to each room without a light ...which is the usual reason for the bright arbitrary light spot on ceilings sometimes , as long as there is a light somewhere , CA won't add it's own , so you can add a light and put it at the other end of the room and not use it for your Scene at all if that weird light appears. Are you floors handscraped ? the texture bumpmap maybe a bit too high if not....looking in front of the fridge. M.
  17. Kbird1
    I agree Ortho , always looks very dated to me.... , with a nice photo from the Lot you should be able to use Standard View with the Photo as a background i'd think. Good luck with it.... M.
  18. Kbird1
    It (likely) depends on the Order you do things , if you have a normally framed roof CA will build a knee wall on top of the existing one, if you raise the roof to support the Rafters. If you have the Trusses already drawn in , then raise it , it should enlarge the Truss on a "Force Truss Rebuild" effectively making it an Energy Heel Truss. M.
  19. Kbird1
    The Balloon through Option works ..... not sure how you plan to Frame it? It seems CA does not consider these Attic Walls ( nothing on Attic Level) hence no auto rebuild another Option is to add a BLANK 3rd floor and draw those 4 walls yourself ( using reference layer) , when you build the 3rd floor, in the DBX you get make the room height 10" high and the Floor structure 0" by deleting both joist and ply , then one wall will build on top of the other.
  20. Kbird1
    would of been good info in the 1st post either raise the Room Ceiling height...... if you want that room with a taller Stud height? or Select the Walls and Choose Balloon through the Ceiling in the Wall Structure DBX , this should pull the Siding up to the Soffit ...works here in sample plan... if you raised the Roof manually M.
  21. Kbird1
    That PDF is mine actually , I posted it a couple of years ago and it has been re-posted a few times now, it is tips from here on the Forum I had accumulated , I thought others could use..... . I have one of Graham's Thread too I have been working on for easier Reading. Jintu (Username Chiefer) is another good Raytracing Expert here on the Forums , he actually does 3D Renderings as a living using Lumion and other High End Renders , so knows his stuff too. I am a Newbie when it comes to RT , so I follow both of their Posts to get Tips and Learn.... You are right there is a ton of Trial and Error for RT's , which is why I run 10 passes 1st , you can usually tell in 3-4 if it's going to look right , if not just stop it, I then make a few changes and try again and then run one at 20-25 but find it doesn't always make too much difference , especially if viewed on a normal computer monitor , with the Retina , you may want to try the DPI a bit higher like 110 ( 72 is default ) and see if you can tell the difference....
  22. Kbird1
    If you have mostly Manual Roofs you may need to use the Edit ALL Roof Planes Tool at the bottom of that Drop down in the pic below (Build Roof Planes is at the Top)
  23. Kbird1
    that is the Roof Plane DBX , not the Build Roof Planes DBX
  24. Kbird1
    Depends on what you are trying to do I think.....move the roof up or just make it Thicker / Deeper, so you can have an Energy heel Truss ?
  25. Kbird1
    Well I have been building and fixing computers for many years , so I'd do it myself , but Laptops are definitely way more difficult to work on , especially in the last 2-3 years as they no longer have user removable batteries , or Ram Access and HDD Doors on the bottom like they used too. If you don't have heat issues , you don't need to do what he did to add the NVME Drive only. It was in the top RH corner of the Video ( has 960 on it , looks like a RAM Chip) , he never covered installing it as far as I saw FFing thru the VID. but it goes in at a 30 deg. angle, you snap it down flat and secure it with the small screw , that's it. I would open it 1st before buying a nvme drive though and see if the m2 slot is there, and empty , if so thats great as the HDD can stay in the computer as you Storage Drive, worse case scenario , no m2 slot means getting a SATA SSD instead and swapping it out with the HDD. If you have the Budget the Samsung EVO line are great Drives but even a budget SDD or NVME eg from WD (BLUE line) is going to be much faster than the HDD you have. M.