HumbleChief

In this case I drew the first truss towards the lower part of the roof framing, multi copied and it appears as though that single multi copied truss landed that one truss in the magic spot for it to misbehave. Any other location probably works fine. Probably couldn't do it again if I tried lol. As Mike Long suggested above it seems to be interacting with the roof below.

Has not been my experience. Have never needed to build roof framing in order to place trusses or have them 'reach' fascia.

Actually had the roof framing built first when the truss misbehaved. I'm also pretty sure that if that truss is not in that exact location (instead of copying into position) it behaves OK.

"I would need a few more details on the little end wall trusses" Had these pieces figured out as above...

THANKS Michael! Not an emergency fix needed and have sent it in to tech support. I'll use the work around for now.

Thanks SO much for taking the time Mick. I noticed that wall below as well but shouldn't snap any where near a 'wall below'. I'll send it in and thanks again.

Looks like I copied the small gable truss back towards the main roof plane which explains the short tails and why they all look like gable trusses - DOH. But that other truss has me stumped.

Trusses are behaving a bit weird on this plan. I'll send the 2D plans to the truss manufacturer so it's not that important but was curious about the behavior. User error? Bug? Thanks. TRUSSES 3.plan

Way to go you guys. Glad you got it worked out.

I actually built a shipping container structure in La Jolla, CA. If you don't know where that is it is in one the most highly regulated areas in CA. Shipping containers are amazingly strong and structurally sound - until you cut a window or door into them. That's where the engineering fun begins as they are suddenly worthless from an engineering standpoint. If it's in your back yard I would have no problem. Permitted and inspected? I echo everything John_Charles put so well above, and then some. I recently watched a video of a young couple who built from a couple of containers and they framed up the interior walls for electrical and insulation, then drywalled and could have done the same thing for way less if there was no container in the way. On the other hand these sorts of explorations and experiences can lend a huge amount of knowledge to your portfolio but if you decide to actually build with shipping containers beware and carefully read what John has posted above.

Here's the plan from a closer camera view. Haven't viewed it yet but maybe it will help? https://3d-viewer.chiefarchitect.com/go?share=203228054774368

I noticed the the view on my rig started to break up the closer I got. Would it help if the camera were closer to begin with?

Definite difference in the views but have no idea why. The one generated here looks acceptable and I would be OK with client receiving same, though like I said I never use the feature. The one generated on your set up not so much, but again the solution is above my pay grade. Let us know if you figure it out.

Here's a screen shot if the vid's resolution is not good enough.

Let me know if this helps.

Hey Scott, looks like Dave's views (above) are RT's from his RTX 3070 video card not the 3D viewer. Not so much apples to apples. How are you generating that picture view? Perhaps I could generate something similar for you to compare, if that might help.

...or at least look seriously into what it will take to complete a shipping container home. Will there be permits? Or is this a backyard project with no inspections? If it's a permitted project let's just say you will have a lot of fun getting the engineering done as a start. There's a couple threads here re: shipping containers that might be enlightening. As far as your picture it looks like there might be some roof framing that's not showing that makes it looks like your roof is too high. You can adjust the roof framing, turn its layer on if it's not, or perhaps lower the roof but getting a plan so we can view it is your best bet.

Got it, and thank you, and as always didn't explain myself as well as I could have but your help is always appreciated. I have X13 but have been hesitant to use it as I found a couple of bugs rather quickly and want to finish up a couple of plans in X12. Didn't know about the ceiling height below change in X13. I'll move to X13 sooner rather than later.

Thanks Michael, the air gap was there to even the second floor floor heights allowing the ceiling heights below to be adjusted if needed. I finally worked it out by ensuring the first floor ceiling heights did not need adjusting, locking the "floor bottoms" when altering the framing on the second floor and now the first floor rooms throw the "can't adjust ceiling heights because the floors above are at different heights (sic)" but now, no need to do so. Here's a pic of the framing showing the 16" deep TJI's and beams and the 2 x 12 deck joists, both running in unexpected directions but verified in the field. I can now get this to my engineer without having to explain in word only. Thanks Chief, and thanks for the help.

It looks like the technique has to include a first floor ceiling height that doesn't need to change before messing with the second floor framing. That way the ceiling heights don't NEED changing when the floor heights above no longer match? Make sense?

Thanks very much for taking the time Mark, and yes getting rid of the air gap works on this simple plan but the warning about ceiling heights can't be adjusted because the floor heights above vary returns and in the actual plan I need that option to change ceiling heights. I'll look again but I THINK I need the air gap?

Not sure how you all would handle this condition. There is a second floor living area that sits on 12" TJI deep framing and outdoor living area that sits on 2 x 8 framing. If only the floor heights are adjusted then there's that warning about ceiling heights on the floor below can't be changed because the floor heights above vary. Adding an air space to the 2 x 8's brings the floor heights to equal but the framing at the railings and wall transitions are raised over the air gap. It can be handled with a detail but am wondering how you all might deal with the same condition? Thanks FLOOR JOISTS.plan

Yes there are ways (better?) other than the expected method of selecting objects and inspecting them in the ALDO to see which layer they are on but that's the point. If you don't know the miriad of methods available in Chief, as a new user, it can be frustrating. Why can't that dashed line be selected in plan view to inspect its layer and turn it off/on like every other item? Why does that dashed line ignore every attempt to select it other than creating a CAD detail? Long time users have figured it out, but why does it need figuring out by side stepping all of Chief's conventions of selecting objects and their layers?

I went through the process many years ago by turning all the layers off, then on, one by one until the 'ceiling break lines' appeared. Can't be selected to learn the layer they are on and haven't been selectable for many, many years. There is STILL no better way to find their layer than the method above and the tips suggested.

Thanks for the great tip as always Glenn. Perhaps it will help the OP as well.