Adam_Gibson

I haven't gotten any other responses.

For what it's worth. I've specified Solatubes and Velux Sun Tunnels. The Solatubes provide more light, which I suspect is because of their patent on the collector element. The first time, it was for a large log home that had been constructed from 4 small log homes and was depressingly dark. The change was dramatic. I've had them in my own home's interior rooms in Indiana and love them. No condensation issues or leaks, and no maintenance so far after 8 years.

Please add that to the thread in Suggestions!

Here are two examples of (what I think are simple-to-code) cabinet backs. I've added them to a thread in the Suggestions forum, but if anyone cares to disseminate their workarounds, please share. Also, if you'd like to voice your opinion on that Joe's thread, maybe it will get some notice, and reaction.

Ha. That's funny. Cool.

NKBA wants designers to use centerlines on cabinets that contain electricity, water, or drains. I've seen it help some trades not to miss details.

If there's a wall break or something behind the cabinet Chief will pick that up, sometimes instead of the cabinet side. Looks like that happened on your second image. If you're dimensioning elements in an elevation on one cabinet, you'll have to use points for anything other than counters and toe kicks. For example, if you want to dimension an appliance in elevation. Perhaps someday with will become more comprehensive. Hope this helps.

Here's one I either stole or created. It's been a while. Garage Door, Glass Sectional.calibz

If you don't have other Bone objects, you can probably use the material eyedropper to change the color to white on all at once using the Material Painter Floor, Room, or Plan Mode.

I've been happy with the HP T120 for a year. Prior to that, I used an HP 110+ for over ten years. No issues, other than the occasional orneriness. Be sure to use OEM print heads. I assume the T130 is even better, and about $1k. I suggest the proprietary stand as well.

Anyone know the quickest way to make a window like this top one? I'm stumped on the triangular part. It's a 12/12 pitch.

Thanks again. I used both of your methods with good results. I really appreciate your time and generosity! The home was built around 1850 as a double. We plan to jack it up and dig a full basement. The historical society will want renderings, so this helped immensely. We can't change the facade at all, other than replacing siding and windows.

Any reason do not just create a custom lintel for the top millwork?

Geez. You guys are amazing. I'm lost on how you, Mark, did your thing. I get using shutters (great idea). Did you make the P solids into shutter symbols?

Thanks all. What I was shooting for was if there's a way to simply make casing in that shape, avoiding applying symbols to the windows. Renee, I like your approach. I'll get the exact dimensions for casing and lintel and use your method. You all are so generous with your time!

I have no problem creating custom extrusions, but I'm wondering what the best method would be to create this shape casing for various height windows. I don't think I've run into this before. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Great! That's two of us so far. Allen Brown (Brownsburg) and Tim Schrock (Lebannon) used to be involved. Do you know them?

This is great info. Thank you!

Oh. Damn.

Your eye doc can prescribe "computer" lenses. Maybe it's been discussed (I haven't read all the posts). I get my scrips from Costco Optical and what a difference these lenses make. As far as curved, I had a couple that I loved because the far fields / near fields were so much closer to my eyes (I use dual 32" monitors). But at the time 4K were pricey. Now I see they're around $450. Next pair will be curved. 4K resolution is fantastic.

I like that look. And your reasoning.

Yeah, I get that. Did you put a request in the Suggestions forum to separate opening indicators in plan view from doors?

That's what mine is as well. No problems here.

I don't think so unless the door is also dashed. Sometimes I've sent the plan to CAD and changed the lines, copied and pasted in place with lines larger than the original. I doubt that's helpful.