JiAngelo

Yes to 2nd question. And change the 2nd floor roof pitch to 1/4" if you want it to resemble the picture posted previously.

For the eaves to match at the front porch and to use autoroof, Make the garage and middle room above roof planes all 12/12. Don't build those attic rooms just yet. I personally then lower the room above ceiling to 4' 1 1/8" ceiling height (the minimum I generally want my room above sidewalls to be) . It was luck this worked first time around. My garage was 24' wide and the room was 12' wide centered above. Next step is to see how much wider I can make the room. Turns out 14' is too wide, but 13'8" works fine. If I'm ready to lock the roofs on the entire house, then I uncheck automatic roofs and set the ceiling height back to std. in this room. Chief then draws the slope start lines automatically. If the room was being used for storage, I might lower the walls to 37 1/8" and that would allow the room to be even wider. This is the only way I've found to control the sidewall heights. There's another method that draws the walls under the roof regardless of the sidewall height - it just does whatever makes it work and then I have to compare elevations to figure out heights. Alternatively some room truss designs require the side rooms so that a 10" bottom chord extends the entire length. Using Kellyh's method, In the side rooms I would set the room height anywhere from 1.5" to 7.5" - unfortunately the overhangs won't align with a front porch unless you raise the porch roof - which is a problem if there are windows above to consider. I've never been happy with the attic room results unless the room is alone on a floor by itself.

My bad. I didn't catch the outside unit. Given the room size, and balancing this with cost (a window unit is only $200), what if you inset the wall between the doors, reducing just the toilet space to 3'4", leaving the bathroom 4' wide at the sink? I also reduced the doors to 2'6" wide and made the bathroom 7'8" deep. I am showing the inset wall as block, but it could easily be a 6" siding wall, accenting the block to either side and increase the toilet space to 3'6". This allows a passthrough that is a few inches wider than a 5,000 btu unit to maintain airflow on the outside. These small ac units are only 15"-16" deep.

>Tools >Layout >Referenced Plan Files double-click the one you want to change and select new plan. If the views exist in the new plan they will repopulate. This includes cameras, cross sections, and cad details.

Check this out. It could mount over the toilet. https://www.acwholesalers.com/LG-LQN090HV4/p106101.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwO20BhCJARIsAAnTIVTrbGyYyYlroj21QWNWBjz4s0egVLQ-FTU9yg3C2zXd47OBLjtlcZEaAhKPEALw_wcB Also look at RV ac units. Problem is your room is less than 40sf so any wall unit is likely oversized.

Send a plan view image with the camera location showing please.

To create a model, -View the house in 3D, no terrain. -Turn off any interior furniture (To lessen the size of the model). -Export as a 3D model (I prefer *.dae) In your terrain plan, -import 3D model. -Chief will add it to the library. -select it like you would a fixture and place it where you want it. For.me it imports with the basement footer at terrain.elevation. so I have to sink the house about 8-9 feet along the z axis. (Usually until the garage doors are 2" above the terrain.) Then place the house where.you.like. Then repeat for the other floor.plans you want to include. The upside is all 3 homes are now independent for schedules, notes, details and material lists. The downside is if you.make any changes to a plan, you need to re-export, re-import, amd replace the model. There is a better way. Simply "reference" another plan from your terrain file, like you would another floor. Renerabbit showed me this a while back, I haven't had the time to.master it. It is similar to placing a footprint in a cad detail (but in the terrain file's plan view) Best part is it is live. If you change the house floorplan, the changes show up in the terrain file.when it is reopened. Chief has a help dbx that will walk you through it. Hope this helps. We use it for subdivisions to show.many different homes side by side.

I was hoping this isn't what he meant. It's a bit more complicated than that. Due to the curvature of the earth, every area is divided into a "state plane" grid that surveyors use. Here's my area's coordinate system. I am in OH_S The last DXF's from my surveyor has one corner of our 50'x100' lot located at x= 21767534.875" and y=2539813.4375" from Chief's origin. (also my surveyor's state plane origin, which for us happens to be near Edinburg Illinois, southeast of Springfield.) I only know this because I had drawn a house near the origin exported it to my surveyor and he sent it back to me to show me where my drawings were showing up on his system in comparison to where my lot was actually drawn. In the reverse, if I import the surveyor's dxf and choose "ignore" when the following dbx pops up, Then draw my home inside his dxf lines, then what I export back to him will have the house located exactly in his system, our our excavators GPS equipment, and our own GPS tablets. This takes some practice to get used to.

Change your CAD defaults to display quadrant bearing and decimal feet. Lots are typically closed polygons, so I turn on "Show Length" and "Show Angle" in the "Line Style" section of the Polyline DBX. (last image above) You can manually draw a survey by placing a starting point X then double clicking the line tool and entering the distances and orientations of each sequential line. The resulting dxf will give your surveyor the correct orientation of your home in reference to the lot lines you drew. Note, the dxf lot lines themselves will not be located to real world state plane coordinates (GPS) - that's a bit more involved and is usually done in the reverse starting with a dxf from your surveyor or county GIS center.

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The csv data is for a shape file.

Can you post in the kml and shapefile formats?

Have you tried room dividers at the breaks so that Chief sees 3 different rooms defined? Then try changing the middle room to roof group 1. But I have to ask how you intend to deal with eaves on the long side? You need the planes to start off at the same facia plane, not the heel height.

In your wall definition on the upper wall move the plywood to inside the main layer. However all exterior dimensions will now be to this plywood, not the stud.

Each "room" is ~2 feet above the other. (3x tread height) Often I'll design a third room "patio" to define a landing area for the stairs off the deck. It's not necessary but helps when drawing. Stairs then belong to the lowest heading up to the next room.

There are a couple of trailers in bonus libraries. One is a triple axle you cam resize it to fit your building.

Deja Vu ? You are measuring to the ext. surface layer vs. The studs. Studs are 10'x10' =100' Surfaces: 10.25'x10.25 = 105' Change default to measure to main layer. Also, 9.33'x9.33' =87'

Shayne can you post a picture of your graphic scale bars? Mark, if I'm understanding you correctly, ignore %scale%. Like DBCooper said, one can use %box_scale% (and %sheet.size%) in either the label of the layout box itself - OR Create a text box with those macros and an line arrow reference pointing to any layout box on the drawing page. We use variations of " %automatic_label% | %box_scale% " in the label of our layout boxes versus on the drawing sheet because sometimes we mix scales on the same page. Front elevation might be 1/4" and sides/rear might be 3/16" or 1/8". The video shows this does not enable underlining. Our layout box borders are generally turned off, but if you position an arrow+text box at one corner. Here's an example showing sheet.size and different arrow types referencing upper corners of two layout boxes. The larger text under the elevations is the layout labels with %sheet.size% added to the right only. As for a graphic bar scale we drew the following years ago on the layout page 0 as part of our template. It appears on every page in the title block. It is drawn to real sheet.size page dimensions. Works great if we print at sheet.size. Our problem is we normally draw sheet.size = 34x22 for final plots, but we have 17x11 printers in house. So we print at 1/2 scale in the print dialog, but the macros don't adjust to the "Check Plot" 1/2 scale we are printing. The graphic bar does reduce proportionally, so the 1" box actually measures 1/2" on the printed page (and so on..) and we adjust for this internally but anyone else is lost looking at a 17x11 print. I'd overlooked that sheet.size variable. Adding that in a corner of our titleblock would indicate scale is off if your holding a 11x17 page and it says 22x34. My question: Is there a check.plot variable? like creating %box_scale.check_plot% - that would make the macro's match the printed scale vs. sheet.size? We could then create 2 PDF's for each project 34x22 and 17x11 with all the scales automatically adjusted. (and sheet.size in the title block so we know the difference.) John.

I think those drivers are 32-bit. Is your windows 64-bit? This link may help you

Here is where you can add additional angles. Section cameras can't be rotated apparently, but can be drawn to any allowed angle. Draw a line perpendicular to the wall and find its angle and allow it. If it is 88 degrees for example you might want to allow a smaller multiple, like 22 or 11 or 5.6 If that doesn't work exactly subtract 180 from the angle (or add) and try that number or fraction there of instead. Here's an example of 2 parallel lines, one starts left and ends right, the other starts right and ends left - that is why the angles are 180 degrees different from one another.

There's a box awning in the commercial awnings bonus library that I use alot. It looks like your roof but only offers 2 supports and the colors match the flat roof. When I played around with the corbels, resizing them, only the timber corbel worked, but it is awfully big and may not give you the look you desire.. So instead I created a 4"x4"x7' solid, created a side elevation view of the porch and rotated the solid column to 45 degrees. Angled the ends to plumb/level with the porch roof and wall. Then slid it into place under the roof, against the wall. - I colored it osb to contrast with the corbel and the roof - and I left the corbel so that you could see the difference. The solid idea actually works best. I've used the corbels on smaller roofs before and suggested it without thinking it through. My bad

Sorry, logged into this website is what I meant. Switch to www.chiefarchitect.com and visit "my account" and select "digital locker". This should tell you if chief sees your computer as authorized for the software. However, this may be a permissions problem with windows itself. Can you right click the program and select "run as administrator" - see if that works.

Contact Tech support is the easiest. However if you are logged in check your digital locker and see if it shows the current computer as connected.

The easiest way is to place an enlarged corbel (library) then raise it so the top frame is inside the roof and move it so the side frame is inside the wall.

Clopay has a door that's all glass panels