rgardner

4 minutes ago, kwhitt said:

Hi Ryan - thanks for the response.  The AutoCAD cross-section above shows exactly what you mention (the large fascia, frieze, and angled shadow board).  I was hoping there was a way for Chief to handle this situation out of the box with the proper square cut, so that the framing would generate automatically.  There will be an addition added to the main part of the house that will be framed the same way without me have to manually add the rafters and soffits.

Although this type of construction does happen alot I would guess there are way more that are single story homes without a "half story" above so the oob settings are generally set for that.  Although I am pretty sure that the oob template from chief has plumb cut set so I am guessing your template has been changed to that.  But in every job you are going to need to set your defaults for that job.  So you should set your roof structure and fascia for the individual job if it is different than your template.  If you do just these or more of these style of construction jobs then you could definitely set it to default to those settings.

If this is an as-built there is probably a large fascia board and maybe a frieze and shadow as well? Got any pix of what you are trying to accomplish? 

Did you try setting your roof to plumb cut and giving it the size of fascia/sub-fascia that it would take to build it and cover the rafters?   

4 hours ago, glennw said:

Chief will not auto build a roof over a deck with the OOB settings.

Open the deck room dbx.

Structure panel, Ceiling, check Roof Over This Room.

But...do you really want a deck room?

A deck is normally constructed with spaced timber decking - not waterproof!!!

You really just need to use a normal room type and work out how you want to waterproof it and define the floor construction accordingly.

As Glenn kindly pointed out there are some issues with your design as far as water penetration goes.  Maybe research using a Balcony room and build out the settings as he recommends with some form of water barrier and drain system to control the rain from getting into your home.

5 hours ago, amaliya said:

Hi there,

 

Has anyone tried to change the dimensions of the ready floor plan from inches to cm? If so, could you please share with me how? I would really appreciate it! Thank you!

I find the F1 key helps alot in these type of situations.

10 minutes ago, robdyck said:

Not that I know of. But you can make them all the same height and depth relative to the terrain which is adequate for any drawing. For instance, in my region, cylindrical piers on footings must have the bottom at least 5'-0" below grade for frost coverage, and the top at least 6" above grade. So I end up with a 4'6" cylindrical pier on a 10" footing, set to the terrain as mentioned and they are always the right height...however the deck posts will not 'find' those foundation elements on their own.

Yup that has been my experience.  It would be an awesome tool if the pier/post tool could be set to the top height manually (or automatically if using auto deck framing) and have it set to a certain point above terrain.  Would make 3d terrain modeling look that much better with lots less effort.

1 hour ago, kwhitt said:

I've got a main house with concrete foundation walls and some 16 x 16 CMU piers here and there.  I also have some 6 x 6 wood piers under a deck.  The builder wants to change the wood deck piers to 24 x 24 brick piers with larger footings.  I have already customized the framing for the deck and don't want it altered so have turned off auto-framing.  I just got the terrain data and I'd like the piers/footings to conform to it, however I don't want to alter my deck or main house framing in any way.  Do/can the pier footings work automatically independent of the framing?  I am seeing that the piers and footings are now two separate items that can be opened.  The footings allow me to specify distance from the terrain, but the piers have no such control - at least that I can find. Is it now necessary for me to manually size the piers?  Thanks, Kevin

I may be a little dense but I am a little confused as to what you are searching for with this question.

If I am understanding you correctly you have placed piers in what way?  I believe for modeling and 2d you should be able to change your original 6x6 posts into the 24x24 cmu piers by changing the post to 24x24 and setting the material to CMU, resize your footing appropriately.  You would then just need to set your post top height to the bottom of your beam.

Am I understanding your question correctly?

14 minutes ago, EconBlueprints said:

I tried everything, and I can change everything except the text size.  Is this just another Chief work around that wastes hours and hours of time?  Very frustrating to say the least.
In my case, changing the layer does nothing at all.

It is tied to the label text definition.  So the layer for the label has a text size default setting.  Change that to the size you want to use.

8 minutes ago, DRAWZILLA said:

Is the framing sill plate turned on in that camera  views DBX 

Good catch Perry.  The Aldo view shown looks to be like the one you are using in your plan 2d view and not your 3d view which uses whatever layerset/defaults you have set for that camera.

1 hour ago, uremodel2014 said:

Im hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction. I'm working on a full home remodeling project. I have elevations that are sent to layout. After working on door and window schedules, I happened to notice that all my elevation dimensions are not showing on the layout page. When I click on the elevation, it links me back to the camera view and the dimensions are there. I thought maybe I had the dimensions layer turned off on the plan or layout page. Nope, both are on. Still not showing.

Then I tried sending the elevation to layout again and the dimensions came along with it and stayed. If I cant figure out why the dimensions wont show on layout page, I will have to delete and re-send every elevation. anyone have a clue they would be willing to share?

Thanks,

 

Just a guess here since you don't show any pictures of dbx for the layout but you most likely have a saved plan view problem where the layout was referencing a different saved plan view. Other issue may be how you have your layer sets/defaults setup.  It sounds like it is pointing towards another view.  But sorry hard to tell without seeing what you are talking about.

12 minutes ago, j2narchitecture said:

@rgardner Thank you!  It worked!  I am out of practice with CA, but getting back into the groove.  

Glad it worked for you!  Have a great weekend.

1 minute ago, j2narchitecture said:

Thank you everybody for your feedback.

 

@DRAWZILLA I would also need to turn off the attic walls in the perspective overview and that creates other issues on gable walls.

@solver  Attached is a pic of the particular wall I need to remove.  

@rgardner Is there a way to stop the foundation from trying to build up to the roof?  I tried the Wall Specs --> Structure ---> Platform settings to see if any of these would work.  No luck.

Move the foundation wall to the new location, or you can select the foundation "room" and unselect roof temporarily until you have things ready.

Looking up design criteria for a project in northern Oregon and came across this interesting info! 

Anyone else seeing this with covid?  They don't claim it is a temporary measure either.

Your foundation wall is trying to build through to the roof.

58 minutes ago, Campbad said:

Oh I see - I got it now thanks

Just to add:

In the cross section view if you want it to "slice away" more of the house and move what you see go to the plan file and move the cross-section camera so the line is where you want to see and it will automatically up date to that position.

18 minutes ago, SNestor said:

Thanks.  But - if you look at this wall in framing view the posts do not extend to the floor.  I thought that was the goal?  Also - when you select panel the wall cap is assigned to the top of the panel and not at the top of the pony wall.  

You are right with the Wall cap that it would need to be added as a molding line to do this.  That is the downside to using a panel instead of a solid wall but it is alot easier and more dynamic to place a molding line for that actual molding than to try to place in this example 6 polyline solids for the screen enclosure.  It is surely not the only way to do it nor am I saying it is the best way to do it.  I am just saying it is the method that I use for my screened porches (I do lots of plans in Michigan and Wisconsin where apparently the mosquitos are bigger than the birds.)  It does allow to get everything as close as possible automatically with no polyline solids needed. 

The posts if you need them to model can be done a couple of ways.  1.) Use your manually placed posts from below and bring them to the underside of the beam or ceiling if using flush beams. or 2.) Bring the posts to the top of the pony wall height and align with the posts in the railing wall.  These are just a couple of the ways that come to mind to accomplish it.  I believe the OP was asking about showing the newel posts in plan view which is what I showed him in the response above.  I was not saying that it would auto place the post through, or at least I did not mean to infer that.  Hope this helps someone.

53 minutes ago, kwhitt said:

 

I'd like to know about the newel posts too. 

BTW this is set as a balcony room and I changed the structure to be a 2x10 pressure treated joist with a decking material.

3 hours ago, SNestor said:

@rgardner

 

Ok..so you are using a pony wall.  Still my question is.  How do you get a solid panel on the upper portion?  If the bottom wall is a siding-4 (modified to have siding on two sides) what wall type are you using for the upper wall type?  I'm not understanding how you get a "post to beam" railing wall, a siding-4 wall on the bottom and a solid panel in the railing wall?  

 

Can you post the wall definition so I can see what you are doing?  Thanks!

Sorry was finishing up a deadline.

This is what worked for me:

Just now, SNestor said:

@rgardner @Kbird1

So...I'm a bit confused.  

 

If we use say "siding-4" as the wall type for a "post to beam" style railing wall...how do you then get a "screen material" on top of the siding wall on the bottom?  Are you using a P-solid and painting it? Or...maybe a molding polyline?  Or is there a way to get this railing wall to have separate materials on the top and bottom that I'm totally missing?

 

What Mick showed above is like a pony wall...but no one has suggested a pony wall...so, like I said.  I'm lost here...

Yes Steve it is using a "pony wall" for the lower solid wall and a railing to beam or ceiling with panel for the screen portion.  I usually use a 1/8" thick panel with the wire mesh as the material but Mick made a good suggestion of setting it to glass then using the mesh material so as to adjust the transparency.

2 minutes ago, kwhitt said:

 

Thanks Ryan.  You're right.  I guess I can just place my pier/footings manually which I intend to tweak anyway.  Speaking of double or triple beams, do you actually draw those out individually?  I am using a triple 2 x 10 beam and just drew it as a single member 4.5" thick with a custom label.  I was curious how others do this.  Kevin

I do them individually so they show as three lines and I only allow one of the labels to show but change it to say "(3) 2x10 Flush Beam".

But I am sure some others may have some good suggestions in this regards.
 

9 minutes ago, kwhitt said:

 

Ryan - thanks.  Changing to balcony works, but I lose my pier footings.  

Makes sense.  To be honest I never use chiefs support for decks because I always end up manually placing any beams and posts/footings.  I generally re-frame the deck anyways and just use the auto feature to put it in there initially until I am happy with it.  That allows me to use double or triple 2x if I want or to set a flush beam and posts at corners instead.

53 minutes ago, Kbird1 said:

 

That what I do as well except I use Chief's "Glass Panel" from the Library, then apply the Mesh to it, which seems to still allow you to set the Mesh's "Transparency" which is sometimes helpful but maybe the Transparency option works anyway? this is just how I have always done it.

 

Nice Trick!  So you "paint" the wire mesh to the glass?  And that allows you to set the transparency?

34 minutes ago, Kbird1 said:

 

You trying to fill in my Day ?  

 

1. In and elevation camera select the Wall
2. open the DBX , uncheck Railing , ( don't panic)
3. grab bottom of Wall and pull it down to the bottom of the Joists,
4. re-check Railing ( phew)
5.  hit Ok

 

Let me know If I missed a step.....  it's the same trick used for Fascia Mounted Railings , there are a few posts on that here too.

 

Mick.

Not sure of this but the idea of making it a balcony room comes to mind and makes me think that it may fill it in below?  Or possibly just a wall material region?

I do quite a few screen porches but we never do two sets of panels.  I usually have a solid (sided) wall below then posts going up to a beam but the posts are hidden in the wall below so it is not modeled.  To do that, I use the method Steve did above, however instead of using solid and painting it I use a 1/8" thick panel with the wire mesh as the material.  Very clean.

2 hours ago, ACADuser said:

OK found it:

 

Distributed Objects

The Distributed Object tools allow you to place multiple copies of an object in an evenly spaced array, either within a region or along a path. Select Build> Distributed Object to access these tools.

 

Definitely comes in handy sometimes.  Random example is I was working on a faux victorian style home and they wanted a decorative railing above a small non-parapet roof trim where putting an actual railing would not work correctly due to the actual roof placement.  Distribution line and a molding line for the railing, quick and simple.

5 minutes ago, MrSousa said:

All I know is that they will toggle on/off with 'T' or if I turn them on in the menu. I have decided not to use the Temporary Dimensions. I am able to use Automatic and Manual Dimensions to get what I need.

Just to clarify when you have the 'T' turned on the dimensions are not there till you select the wall correct?  If this is the case then I am pretty sure what they are telling you about the layer being turned off is the case.  Maybe turn your dimensions on and see if they look about the same location?

Basic Example:

No Manual dimensions placed at all w/ temporary dimension on:

Manual Dimensions placed and layer turned on:

Manual Dimension layer turned off:

Temporary Dimensions Turned on but the dimension layer off which shows the manual dimensions which over-ride the temporary once placed because chief thinks there is a reason you set them where you did and it is the information you want to see: