rgardner

Never seen that style of construction before.  Just tilt up your trusses and throw some LP siding on it good to go! 

1 hour ago, sascea said:

Does anyone know how to change the decimal under the story pole marker lines? I've attached a picture, it's the numbers circled in orange. I would like to get rid of them completely as some of my story pole markers are close together and this takes up extra space.

 

Thank you in advance!!

Assuming you are using premier it is in the settings for story-pole dimensions.  You can set how many decimal points it lista to or change to fractions instead.

49 minutes ago, Chopsaw said:

I find a note on the end of the connecting circuit is usually the least confusing.

I use this method.  I have a little 2d symbol in my library which is 2 45deg dashed lines which in some areas is indicative of a continuation of circuit then I place a note there saying to upstairs circuit, and I copy the same concept upstairs.  Side note when using the spline go ahead and just change that line to the electical connection layer it will look the same as your electrical connections and show up where you want it.

In x12 setup a quick style palette and apply it.  Pretty quick 

3 minutes ago, BBBuilders said:

Plan size of 32MB is to large to attach. 

 

If I copy and paste a portion of the plan into a new plan I am able to arch the windows.  

 

I can arch windows that have not been mulled.

Do you happen to have them vertically mulled as well?  If they are stacked windows try mulling just the upper set and doing it then milk afterwards.

4 minutes ago, DzinEye said:

Using this method I get this bit of wall in the doorway which I can't get rid of.  How did you work around that?

I didn't look at the plan file.  Just offered something I have done with other plans with this scenario.  OP said it worked for him.  Maybe they can share? 

@cortssmith

9 minutes ago, GeneDavis said:

Sure, I'll try that, but my b&b is the entire attic wall and the top 15" of the wall below.

 

Presumed all MR details had to be within a wall's bounds, and don't want to see joints along line where attic wall bears on wall below.

It will spread across both walls.

21 minutes ago, rockyshepheard said:

I followed solver's method and got it to work on a newly created set of four walls. Trouble is it doesn't work in a scenario where I already have the structure built and am just trying to add textures after the fact. I really don't want to start all over from scratch just to get a pony wall on this corner.

Just change the walls in your existing plan.  Just make sure the first floor wall, and the pony wall lower wall are the exact same wall and on align at outer main layer.  

58 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said:

...the lower wall should NOT be a Pony Wall.

You are using the material eye dropper to choose the color of the upper wall.  Use the object painter instead or do it the right way and open the lower wall and change it to a brick 6 as Michael shows above as well as Erick did in his video.

1 minute ago, rockyshepheard said:

I am aware of the stone and the yellow wall type. But aside from that, how did you do it?

So Michael Erick and I have all told you to change that lower wall the same as what you are setting the pony wall on your second level.  That is how it is done but your video shows you not doing that step.

1 minute ago, rockyshepheard said:

That is bizarre. They are NEVER aligned when I make them. That's why I use them.

That would either be a wall definition issue or the fact that you have something other than align on outer main layer selected to offset them.

21 minutes ago, rockyshepheard said:

How could they line up perfectly? The very definition of a pony wall is that it sticks out a certain distance. I absolutely must be missing something here.

 

A pony wall in Chief lingo is the lower portion of the wall and has no bearing on the fact it sticks out or not.  A common tactic in PNW is to use lap siding on the lower half and 1/4” hardi with battens for a board and bat above.  Wall is framed as one wall but in Chief you would model it using a pony wall and setting it to lap-6 and the upper as board/bat 6 ( as an example only).  
 

now in typical Chief fashion there are many ways to do it including using the yellow wall for both lined up and using a wall material region to place the brick on that area.  Either way just as when it is built the walls would bear directly one over the other.  The rest including usually the sheathing is going to be on the exterior layer of the wall definition.

11 minutes ago, rockyshepheard said:

Yes, I did that. Here is result.

Are they the same wall types and lined up?  Did you try it with chief’s oob template?  If they are lined up and the same wall types then you have an issue with your wall definitions.  They should line up perfect.

7 minutes ago, builtright3 said:

 

Where do you get that on with the pro version? I usually print it when It first comes out but I don't know how to get it now.

Click the download link at the right.  

37 minutes ago, rockyshepheard said:

I see, but if the first floor is masonry wall, won' the second floor with pony wall stick out (cantilever wise)over the masonry wall? The first and second floors should be continuous face with not inset or outset.

 

Set the first floor wall to the exact same as the lower section of your upper wall and unless you have set your foundation to offset it should all line up.

1 minute ago, rockyshepheard said:

 

I think what Erick was saying is make your first floor wall just the masonry wall, make your second floor pony wall with lower wall as masonry, and the upper as the yellow wall.  Set your elevation you want and it will auto build it how you want.  Really discourage dragging walls as it will cause issues later.

7 minutes ago, Chopsaw said:

You may need to wait for the release of X13 for the callout tails but for now you can draw them with cad or import from AutoCad and then keep them blocked in your library or template plan.

 

See Plan Defaults for the 2D framing display :

 

 

Line style and weight/colour can be controlled by layer.

Just to add that setting is floor specific.  So you will need to change it on all floors or set it that way in your template before adding any floors.

2 minutes ago, rockyshepheard said:

Over use of spray can? Do you mean spraying once on wall x, then spraying once again on wall x? 
Thx

No not the connect walls button.  Do you have the one wall selected?  Not both.  Just the wall you want to adjust the layers on. Maybe search the help files?

1 hour ago, rockyshepheard said:

Ryan,

I cannot find the tools mentioned. I selected the pony wall>wall specifications>layers...don't see anything about interesections. Am I in the correct location of maybe I have old version of software?
Thanks,

Rocky

7 hours ago, glennw said:

For the corner.

Select the pony wall.

Edit Wall Layer Intersections (edit toolbar)

Drag the wall grip so that it forms a 45deg joint between the 2 walls.

 

For the floor gap, 

Select the pony wall and open it's dbx.

Structure panel>Platform Intersections>Go Through Floor Below.

 

As Glenn mentioned select the wall (do not open) and use the “Edit wall layer intersections” tool that appears in the edit toolbar at the bottom.  Search help if you don’t know what that tool is or does.  It looks like an intersecting set of Blue walls or an L shape.

if you don’t want to see the mitered corner you can pull it around so it’s a square.  Other option would be to pull that whole wall 6-12” around the corner so it ends naturally.  
 

btw what he says about the spray can may be true in your case.

14 minutes ago, solver said:

I'll suggest you have wall definition problems, and overuse of the spray can to apply materials.

 

 

 

20 minutes ago, rockyshepheard said:

Is there a better alternative than a 45 degree corner, to color the edge of the non-pony wall?
Also, the actual pony wall fix worked but it has a visible gap between itself its wall. I don't recall this happening before with pony walls.
Thanks for helping.

Using the same tool you can make it go around the corner to meet with the side wall.  Will work in both cases.

23 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said:

And you can also do the same thing in layout instead of in plan depending on what you're after.  Of particular value in layout is using solid fills (no transparency) to mask those pesky lines you have in certain views that you otherwise have to remember to delete every time your refresh the view. 

Sorry I assumed Erick was showing this in layout as it is much easier to do it there.

2 hours ago, solver said:

Yup, just like Erick shows here you can just put a simple CAD Mask over it with a slightly transparent fill, white or whatever the background is setup as works best.  You can also use the "Line Style" tab in that same dialog box and change the line to an invisible line style and you won't see the box at all only the affects on it.  

53 minutes ago, solver said:

 

Consider a pony wall with the lower a single layer with material set to match the ceiling.

Nice trick.

24 minutes ago, rgardner said:

It actually builds the wall right but you need to figure out your heights using cross sections and adjust the shape of the window top.  You can reframe the wall manually and it is correct.  It solves the issues with the drywall not finishing right from ceiling planes to wall transitions which are always a pain with those walls.

Key to get it lined up is cross sections and measuring how much to go up and down on each side.

23 minutes ago, cortssmith said:

I ended up doing that and it works just fine! Hard to get it lined up perfect but that's what I needed. Thank you!

Glad it helped out.

7 minutes ago, btnew3 said:

I need drawings done for 1,900 sq ft house on a crawl space.  I can send you the floor plan done in chief. Need all necessary drawings for pulling a permit.  My email is ikb.brian@gmail.com

It would help if you mention the area you are building.  Some will not work in certain areas.