rgardner

Members
  • Posts

    2885
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by rgardner

  1. 1 hour ago, Chopsaw said:

    End wall trusses are a bit tricky.  It might be best to post the plan file and have one of the experts take a look.  It could just be a incorrectly positioned ceiling plane or something.  I don't think chief will ever frame a truss for a window automatically though.

    This was going to be my suggestion and my suspicion if it isn't fixing it by rebuilding it.  The ceiling plane is probably going through the start of the truss at least which would cause the truss to build to the ceiling plane.  If you upload the plan file as Chop says then someone can figure it out for you.  

  2. 1 hour ago, rck-tech said:

    Hi, 

     

    I watched this video https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/9914/focus-creating-trusses.html

     

    around the minute 11:30 he shows how to make an attic truss. I followed it step by step. the end truss does not fully close, 

    assuming it did close it; if I add a window or a door to the gable wall would the end truss re-frame and create the headers etc...

     

    Thank you,

     

    endtruss.JPG

    Trusswindow.JPG

    Did you by chance just copy one of the others?  If so you will need to Force truss rebuild (right top option).

     

  3. 46 minutes ago, ACADuser said:

    So the only way is to make pony walls on the 2nd floor?

    Did you do that with the balcony railing wall too?

     

    I only did a quick attempt with that one wall to the right to see if that was what you were looking for, but yes if you do that on the balcony wall as well it should work.  just set it to 0 off the floor so it knows that the portion to build between platforms needs to be the pony wall material and everything above the 0" level should be the upper wall.

  4. 1 hour ago, GeneDavis said:

    How can you get precision placement in stacked views?  Point to point won't work unless I'm doing it with dead views (not live), and I want the elevations to be live.

    If you send it twice without moving the layout box and/or resizing them they should land in the same spot.  Then adjust the layout box how you want it and group select both to move them???

  5. 2 hours ago, Chopsaw said:

     

    It is not totally out of the question.  My supplier can deliver a 77' truss without special permits. They can build and deliver longer ones but it costs more....    Did not ask what the maximum is but it is also dependent on access to the job site.

     

    Definitely a good question for your local truss supplier though. ;)

    54’ was always Max in Washington state. 46 in upper Wisconsin due to terrain.

  6. 21 hours ago, Deirdre_OBrien said:

    Thank you - that did the trick. I split the cabinet front to two doors and made the one door blank. This allows me to play with the remaining door and make it whatever size I want. I am building a blind cabinet in a location that faces the side of the range. I need the door of this cabinet to swing out without making an awkward connection with the range door and door handle. I'm also putting a rev-a-shelf type item in the cabinet (not a lazy susan). 

    image.thumb.png.476234114ef91d8a1ef4c114ba6d7734.png

    If I understand what you are trying to do here it looks like a true corner cabinet without a diagonal door.  Place a corner cabinet size it to the 39" you want each direction and at the bottom of the first page of the cabinet dbx you will see diagonal door (make sure that is unchecked to make it squared off like you show above.)  It will show as two doors but generally these type of doors with the hinges in the corner and on one side will look like two doors close to each other.  You can mess around with blanks and separations to get it sized how you want for the door.

  7. I was looking for these a while back as well to show on a nice elevation view for a project I had.  I ended up using one of the existing elevation trees and just closing the polylines myself and blocking it.  You still have to unblock it so that the trunk stayed separate from the foliage but here is my little one that I made.  Only took about 10-15 minutes to close it all off and trim.

    2d-filled tree.calibz

  8. 42 minutes ago, Dermot said:

    The next version, currently called X13, is scheduled to be released during the first half of 2021 (very similar to what we have done for the past several versions).  All of your libraries, toolbars, hotkeys, template plans, etc. should migrate forward pretty much automatically as long as you install X13 on the same machine as X12.  You can also migrate them manually if you install on another machine and we have a tech article to help you with this process if needed.

     

    You might also be interested to know that there is a sale going on right now that includes 20% off on upgrades.  You should be able to upgrade from X11 to X12 for $556 instead of the $695 regular price.  If you upgrade now, you should also get a full year of SSA which will allow you to get X13 when it is released next year.  I have no idea how long the sale is going to last but you may not want to wait until December.

     

    For more information about upgrades, you might want to check out this page:

    https://www.chiefarchitect.com/products/upgrade.html

     

    For more information about what is included with SSA, see this page:

    https://www.chiefarchitect.com/products/ssa/

     

    For the full list of what's new in X12, see this pdf:

    https://cloud.chiefarchitect.com/1/pdf/marketing/x12-new-features.pdf

     

    If you have more specific questions, I would encourage you to call or email our sales team during our normal business hours.

     

    @ChiefUserBigRob seems like a pretty good deal...

  9. Was thinking the same as Erick.  A backup might help.  Depending on how you built the model if everything is set within the materials dbx instead of painted you may just be able to use the “paint-can” tool and select the plan option with the use default material selected and “paint one of the walls and everything that has that material will be set back to its default material/color.  But that is only if you set everything directly instead of painting colors/materials.

  10. 16 minutes ago, ChiefUserBigRob said:

    Cost of doing business i agree. If there arent that many changes in the program to make it better whats the point in my opinion. Just like autocad. You dont need to upgrade for every release. Nothing changes that much. However they rent their software now which has it cons but i need it to keep for certain drafts

    The SSA advantages on its own are generally enough to justify it to me but add in the free upgrade to the newest version makes it a no brainer for me.  X12 to X11 I would estimate as a whole saves me at least 1 hour if not many more on every job due to just the small changes.  That really adds up to me over a years time.

  11. 5 minutes ago, Gawdzira said:

    You library will remain intact. Honestly, simplify your life. If you do this professionally, the yearly SSA is a cost of doing business. I don't uninstall the last 2 versions in case there is some crazy reason to open an old file in that version. Since x11, I have not had any problems with opening old files so I don't even know if it is worth it to keep the old versions at this point (for me). Some people who work for other folks do keep the old versions so that they can offer to work in the older versions and maintain the old file for someone who does not have the current version.

    So, to recap, Dude! just freaking upgrade.

    Well put.  If you are using Chief as your tool of trade keep it sharp and upgrade to stay up to date. The ssa program is an inexpensive way to keep it up to date, have free access to the latest catalogs, as well as tech support.  It’s less than $45 a month for a tool that can make you tens or even hundreds of thousands every year.

    • Like 1
  12. On 8/14/2020 at 8:33 AM, TheKitchenAbode said:

    I don't have any problem with the up-vote. Seems like a nice way to say thank you and for the the individual compiling up-votes their accumulated total demonstrates how helpful they have been. Down-votes are another issue and I have never given one. I would only consider such if someone was just outright disrespectful or intentionally disruptive. I don't believe anyone should be down-voted because they have an opinion that differs from another or even the majority. There are many ways of doing things in CA and though one particular way may seem to be the better down-voting the alternative way is not in my opinion appropriate. Just use the method you personally prefer and move on.

    I usually stay away from these as I don't see a lot of value in complaining but I do see a value in both the upvote and downvote when used properly.  I stalked these boards for quite some time before I started contributing and asking questions.  In my case when i was newer to the forum If I was researching a question I had and reading through the forums and came across someone who said "do it this way" and I saw a bunch of downvotes, (usually a couple of declining comments as well) and then someone like @Alaskan_Son, @solver, @glennw or another power user come on and say "do it like this" and I see a bunch of upvotes.  It is very easy to see what the general consensus is regarding the best or even the correct method.  If you spend any time on the Facebook groups and see some of the advice (granted the advice on chief talk is at a much higher echelon of quality and precision.) you will see TONS of users who are giving completely incorrect advice on how to do something and basically training bad usage habits, such as manually adjusting walls when an attic wall is not showing correctly instead of going to the attic level to find they had deleted it somehow and there is an invisible wall keeping it from building correctly as a typical example.  Chieftalk maintains a much higher level of accuracy due to the power users being so generous with their time and advice.  If anyone comes on and gives incorrect advice it is almost always corrected and the person researching can see ok this person with 2 upvotes says do it this way or this user with 3000 says this way it becomes obvious which is correct.

     

    Now that being said in NO WAYS should they be used for personal vendettas or just because you disagree with their opinion.  But I can understand why in this case some of the downvotes were done because the receiver was telling NEWER users to not do something which the general consensus and even Chief themselves (shown by Dermot's comment) are recommending as best practices and how the program was designed to be used.  This to many appears to be misleading advice and other users (I did not actually downvote it although I was tempted to do so,) helped to show that with the downvotes.  This is the value that I see with the upvotes especially and in SOME FEW CASES the downvote.   Now everyone has their own workflow so to an advanced user as many on this thread are it is basically useless to argue changes to their workflow unless they are requesting information as they are considering adjusting their usage.  But for NEWER users the more advanced users if they feel inclined to comment to help them should be careful about personal opinions regarding new tools or the generally acceptable and recommended workflow practices.  

     

    Again my two cents free of charge and I hope it is taken at it's intention as a personal observation of what has gone down on this thread and the other and the viewpoint of how I considered the votes and ratings when I was "stalking" the forums before as a new user.  Hope everyone has an amazing weekend, and stay safe! :)

     

  13. 3 hours ago, josbrp said:

    they are checked. does not let me to change that

    If they are set to automatic heights that means there is an invisible wall that is in that same space keeping the attic walls from being built.  Go to your attic level, turn on attic and invisible walls and delete them all twice with auto attic wall build turned on.  Should clean it up.

  14. 1 hour ago, josbrp said:

    do you mind sharing the file with the roof like that? i get big gaps on the walls when i edit the roof planes manually.

     

    thanks

    Is it possible you manually adjusted your walls in an elevation mode?  If so that turns off the automatic wall sizing you want  on to fill the "gap".  Select all of your walls in plan view, open the wall dbx and on the structures tab make sure the first two radial buttons (default wall top and bottom height). is checked.  That should fix the "gap" problem.