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Posts posted by Gawdzira
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I can toggle those off! Thanks. The only time I use those is by mistake and usually followed by a loud, WTF.
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I have hired out of town engineers when I was pretty confident field observation would not be needed. Jared may be willing to travel to the East Bay.
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Jared Pechan (In Pacific Grove). He uses CA. 831-264-3217 jpengr@live.com
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I generally just draw an arrow from the switch and put it on the Electrical Connections Layer. I add the "3" to the switch manually.
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You probably want to post your .plan file to get anything but wild guesses for that question.
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I have had that happen from time to time. Like Micheal, if I get too wordy Chieftalk edits me down to a lost post. I had an amazing diatribe going the other night lost to the ether.
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See images. What I do for the dog walker is to take an image into Photoshop and cut out what I don't want to see to create transparency. I did the same thing with one of the trees from the bonus library. It was a bit time consuming to cut out the holes in the center of the tree but it really only took a few minutes. I could create a fair library of these in 45 minutes. I just use a basic 2d plant and replace the image with my own.
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Currently I just draw cad lines and then delete them. Except for the cad lines I don't delete and then notice them after printing and then slam my fist on the keyboard and then order a new keyboard from Amazon.
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D.K. Ching. (drops mic.)
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I would like to see this too. No Print Layer. I have a layer in my details sheet that I use for snapping and alignment. I have made it such an obnoxious color that it is easy to remember to turn off when I see it printed by mistake.
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For exterior elevations I move the camera (temporarily) to the cross cut section zone. Then I can place CAD lines at the plate and sub floor to snap my dimensions to. Then move the Camera back.
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Based on previous meetings I would block out 2 hours min..
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Tony, the gable at the front bedroom #2 looks good. Any chance of repeating that on the back. You would avoid 2 angled walls which would be a cost savings (or offset cost to the gable end that would be created). And not that you are asking but, that entry is really a pinch point. Is this a remodel or a new home?
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Is this a "Live Elevation"? If you are going to post the file you will need to open the layout and then do a "Backup Entire Plan" in order to have all the data needed to really answer your question. You will likely then need to upload to DropBox due to file size.
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In the words of Dorothy: "Are you a good gripe or a bad gripe?" At least that is how I remember it.
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Although you are asking for roof building information; I think you have a design issue with trying to push that angled bump in the wall so close to the corner. That is why the roof is not working visually. If you lower the roof and try to extend the angled end, it misses the wall and extends past the corner. If you want it higher it still is pushing past where something like this should be in relation to the corner of the house and roof. Design wise, I would carry a straight line of the roof over that bump out so you don't emphasize the protuberance. I can't tell if this is viable by the overall design of the building since you only posted a small snip of the house.
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Looks like the main layer for the adjacent walls are different but posting the plan could clarify that. Guessing without the plan file.
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I am on the latest version and it is happening.
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The bug report has been sent in but from now on I have license to rename you Tom Sawyer.
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I agree, this is confusing and it is a bit redundant that there are two places that would appear to do the same thing. Unfortunately it is the more hidden location that actually works.
Pyramid shaped chimney cap
in General Q & A
Posted
Like Joe said, showed....