olyconstruction

Pocket door problem

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Hi Chiefs, 

 

I am trying to center this pocket door in my elevator shaft but it will not budge past this point. is there and setting within the pocket door that will not allow it to move within a certain distance from the end of a wall?

Thanks!

EX5.JPG

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One option is to change door style to slider, change to slab type.

Modify plan with cad lines.

If door is supplied by manufacturer then uncheck include in schedule.

 

ELEVATOR DOOR 1.PNG

ELEVATOR DOOR PLAN.PNG

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Yes. If you center the door then you won't be able to open it fully. Chief forces the door into a position that will provide a deep enough pocket when the door is fully open.

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Good call Mr. Page! 

 

Mr. Lackore: Thank you, thats what I thought was happening. It seems like I should be able to move it a little more because of where it shows the door panel, but I guess not.

 

Thanks for the help guys!

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As Bill pointed out a pocket door was not the correct use for this situation

Bills is more correct as to the real world

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30 minutes ago, raltd9245 said:

As Bill pointed out a pocket door was not the correct use for this situation

Bills is more correct as to the real world

 

I'm not aware of any residential door interlock that works with any door type other than a swing door. Of course, I'm assuming this is a residential application.

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When I gave an example of a two part  elevator door I was working on a Commercial job that had that style of door.

There are at least three styles of doors. 1. One large door - "pocket " door will work. 2. Two door that slide to one side - "Slider" door style will work.

3. Two doors that split - "Pocket" door style w/ (2) doors marked.

 

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This project was actually started by someone else and I am making edits on it. I did not realize that the pocket door was a problem until I was asked to center it. But it does seem like a slider door is more appropriate.  

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14 hours ago, olyconstruction said:

This project was actually started by someone else and I am making edits on it. I did not realize that the pocket door was a problem until I was asked to center it. But it does seem like a slider door is more appropriate.  

 

I assume this is residential, because the shaftway walls appear to be wood frame. Keep in mind that most residential elevator manufacturers don't provide the landing doors, and I'm not aware of any residential door interlock that works with a sliding, bi-parting, or pocket door - they are for swing doors only.

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It is going to be a wood framed building. We are using a shindler elevator rated for 2500 lbs. the detail on their specs shows a sliding door. 

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9 minutes ago, olyconstruction said:

It is going to be a wood framed building. We are using a shindler elevator rated for 2500 lbs. the detail on their specs shows a sliding door. 

 

Okay; so - a low-rise passenger elevator. In that case, Schindler will provide the landing doors, so you're good to go. If the hoistway is entirely wood-framed, you may want to check with Schindler about securing the guide rails at the floor levels and roof - lots of elevator specs require steel or concrete for that purpose.

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Or you could go with converging pocket doors, but in all cases this setup seems to fail fire protection requirements.

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28 minutes ago, olyconstruction said:

How so Kelly?

 

Four stories or more will require a 2-hour rated shaft enclosure; 1-hour for less than four stories. Maybe Kelly figures the 2x4 shaft walls you're showing isn't adequate. There are plenty of UL assemblies that will give you what you need, but a 2-hour assembly will require extra finish layers, so the wall will get thicker. The shaft walls shouldn't be a huge issue; my thought is the devil will be in the guide-rail and entrance jamb details. But I've never done a commercial elevator in a wood-framed hoistway, so maybe it's easy. 

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This is my first elevator shaft period for me, so thank you very much on the advice, that is important to know because the elevator shaft is right next to an exit door and stair landing, and I might have to double check it I will have enough room if I make the walls thicker.  

 

When you say guide rail and entrance jamb, are you talking about the entrance jamb on the door openings of the shaft and a guide rail that houses the elevator wheels? 

 

It seems I would be able to find manufacturer information or even make details of those things relatively easily, is there some reason it would be challenging?

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Keep in mind I've never detailed a wood-framed commercial elevator hoistway - so maybe it's easy, but every commercial elevator I've dealt with was detailed by the manufacturer for concrete or steel landings, which provide a very rigid substrate for securing the guide rails (for the rollers, or wheels) and the landing entrance doors. Remember that the landing entrance doors are mounted to the interior face of the hoistway - sort of like Bill showed in post #2; in other words, they are not "pocketed" within the hoistway walls like you've shown. Again, this requires a very secure and rigid connection at the sill and the head. Also, because the shaft is a fire-rated assembly, detailing the jambs is important. I know wood-framed installations are gaining in popularity, but I'd definitely contact the elevator manufacturer to coordinate the design before you commit to a certain manufacturer, elevator model, or installation method.

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This got me to thinking.....I tried to make an elevator door.  Always enjoy the challenge.  I made this with sliders on a 2" interior wall and then had line color white.  

Elevator Door.jpg

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