robdyck

This happens only when a polyline is converted to a molding. Instead, select the molding from the library and draw on the intended surface using the Molding Line tool. If you start with cad lines, just leave them there and draw over them with the Molding Line tool, using them as snap references. I have reported this to Chief a long time ago...as soon as it became a problem actually. Keep in mind that the Molding Polyline tool will draw moldings at some interpretation of 90 degrees from what is intended. This is why it is better to use the Molding Line tool and then complete the shape once the molding has been established. Also reported...but not fixed.

Disconnect Selected Edge. This tool shows up at the bottom when you single click on a polyline (needs more than one segment). I'll get a notification if you use the @JKreider format!

At the driveway, you have 2 elevation regions / lines either overlapping or touching. I'd suggest pulling back the elevation line for the asphalt driveway away from the region of the concrete. Conflicting elevation data is kinda like having Jell-O touching your potatoes and gravy!

I'd also suggest removing and cropping almost all terrain lines beyond the terrain perimeter.

In this area, you have overlapping conflicting terrain elevation data; an elevation line and an elevation region. Delete the elevation line, and alter the region so it does not intersect the retaining wall. This statement is not referring to the elevation lines which also need to be cut back from the ret. wall.

Keep in mind that there are times when a Retaining Wall is a bit annoying in the way it connects to other walls and the way it affects the terrain elevation. When, and only when this is a nuisance, I switch to a terrain break and then I will model the retaining wall using slabs, solids, molding or whatever is the most suitable, like a concrete lock block from Chief's Library. A terrain retaining wall transitions the elevation data within the width of the wall. A terrain break can be set to transition much wider (120" is default) or much narrower so you can 'bury' this transition within other objects. Regardless of which tool you use, the terrain elevation data should not cross over or extend into this transitional boundary. As a general rule of thumb, I like to keep elevation data (points or lines) 1" away from my retaining wall or from the terrain break transition boundary.

You can drawn a L shape, then disconnect the new line in order to extend it in the opposite direction. A T will not work. Bad Example: T drawn by drawing the molding L line back on itself and extending beyond the perpendicular segment: Instead:

You can draw invisible walls in the garage that align with the 2nd floor exterior walls. This will allow you to have varying ceiling heights in the garage. The portion of the garage under the 2nd floor will maintain the default ceiling height (ceiling elevation equals underside of floor joists) while the portion of the garage with a roof over it can have it's ceiling height lowered.

For this purpose, you could use a different strategy. In your roof plan, turn on the layer for Opening Header Lines and turn off the layer for Doors. Adjust the layer color and line style to suit your needs. 20250125-1604-40.1543108.mp4

You will probably need to draw in a custom ceiling plane. Start at the the inside of the exterior wall and draw up towards the ridge line. Once you've adjusted the length front-to-back, copy / reflect the ceiling plane about the ridge line.

You could make a series of insulation cad blocks adjusted for various roof slopes. Then add them to your library for future use. I've done this but mine all indicate blow-in insulation. And if you set the insertion point, it's single click placement from the library. 20250124-1636-28.0839244.mp4

The simplest fix here is to post your plan so we can see your camera settings. Or, you can post screenshots of your camera settings, rendering technique settings and lighting settings. Then someone can offer suggestions.

Where you have a ceiling beam, try replacing that using a soffit (delete the default moldings). A soffit should automatically add the room moldings, however where you have separate moldings per room, you will need to do some manual work, probably by creating a room molding polyline and adjusting the polyline. Because the soffit is directly over a wall, the room moldings don't seem to apply properly.

I concur with Brett. I just get my tools out and put the casing on myself. I just had to something similar because of the bottom of a raked window can't be a zero height...so Chief cases the window with a small vertical piece. I needed a proper miter...