VHampton

In the Manage auto-archives, is there a former layout (for this project) prior to the watermark being used? If so, how does that layout print? If it works well, that's a helpful clue. In addition... To trouble shoot, have you cleared the printer cache? What happens when the print is changed to black and white?

Bazinga. You got a green arrow for that one.

How is that object (custom newel) being saved? If it's all blocked (as an architectural block)... Covert it to a symbol - then change the definition of the newels on the stair. That secondary crown under the newel cap should stay in place. Edit: Mr. T's post arrived about 30 seconds before mine. Symbol is the solution.

I'll take that as the highest compliment. lol Back in the V versions of the program, the ability to drag .jpeg files from the desktop, and straight into a plan file was ground breaking. It's a neat trick to this day, especially for tracing over floor plans.

Agreed with the replies. Everyone should be familiar with the 3D Solid tool which is invaluable. Making 3d shapes is quite straightforward once you get the hang of it. Here are some steps below. In addition, a CAD file of the bracket so that you can try it out for yourself. That's the best way to learn. All the best. bracket elevation.dwg

Hi Brett, So to answer, every project is unique. When starting from scratch, repurposing a former plan file with wall types A,B,C is totally fine. The exterior wall type which the clones were generated from will always be the default. (The clones can be used as needed, or they can be deleted.) Typically, I don't save wall types in the library since they're pretty easy to cut and paste from past jobs. But having said that, the "Library save" is a quite a helpful feature, even if some of us still do everything like it's 1999. Hope this helps. ...and thank you. ...and glad to be of help Jim. This is true! On a side... I just finished a project where your very same issue came up. A clone of the siding type was made for the roof fascia and BINGO... the roof facia was toggled to match the same spacing as the siding.

You're quite welcome... and yes it's a global change. When variations are required there's a simple solution. Click on a wall. Dialogue box will open. Copy the wall type - and rename it. Then make a new pattern pattern orientation on certain walls. This will provide a degree of flexibility if that's what you may be looking for. Caution... this is an old school Chief User's approach, so I may get bashed for suggesting. I don't use the paint wall tools. The earlier versions never had them - and the above literally takes two seconds.

Take a 3D view. Use the adjust material definition (rainbow icon). Dialogue box will open. Go to patterns. That's where the grout line on the CMU block can be raised or lowered.

Most states are now requiring HERS ratings. (Res-Check is becoming outdated to some degree. Especially on new builds.) The energy analysis by the rating provider involves fairly skilled technicians. Aside from insulation specifications, they can often provide a basic HVAC layout w/ equipment sizes. It’s worth looking into. Lighting and plumbing are still kept in the wheelhouse for most projects. These areas aren't nearly as complex as HVAC. Simple diagrams for permit applications typically gets the job done.

Viewers are indeed a helpful tool... but there's a downside sometimes. My two cents... sharing the model is a great feature, but occasionally this invites a bit too much client participation in the design. More often than not, they'll think that architectural design is fun, like playing MineCraft, and they'll want to start chiming in, even with the best of intentions. A really good video fly-over in standard view (with sunlight and shadows) is an excellent method. Clay model views are also really helpful. Maybe three or 4 minutes long. Upload the movie file to a video sharing site. This way, the homeowner can ooh and ahh... and the hands-off method often prevents them from become back seat drivers.

All sounds good Alan. It appears that you’ve got this well under control. The gravity load capability on the mini-flitch plates is pretty remarkable by the way. We’ve got a local source that specializes as you can see. They may have a minor degree of deflection though. Really small amount however. What we do is locate them right under the top plates, and then use a single or double 2 x to take into account any possible movement. Especially if there’s sliders involved. Good luck with your project! …and hopefully there won’t ever be any wind speeds that high. We’ve had a few major storms here on the island. They did so,e serious damage even though they were only Category 1 hurricanes. I tell folks to image their house driving down the highway as fast as a Ferrari. Needless to say, a stick framed structure will blow apart pretty quickly if it’s not held down right!

You're quite welcome. If possible, keep the dropped header condition, but specify a 6" structural header. Flitch plate being the more common approach: https://www.betterheader.com/Beam-Legends If the gravity load over that header is only rafters, a 6-8" beam should be fine. Again the main concern is that the wall loses integrity when the plates get cut out. A 50 mph wind only pushes on a window or door with about 5 to 7 pounds of force per square foot of area, whereas a 100 mph wind applies 20 to 28 pounds per square foot, and a 130 mph wind applies 34 to 47 pounds per square foot. Meaning that the wall is gonna want to flex. That's where the 'break' in the plate may not be ideal. If that were a floor condition rather than a wall, several people standing on the intersection of the header and the studs would eventually push the joinery apart (and that would be considered a low impact condition). 70 mph wind loads have ability to place over 1,000 to 2,000 lbs of force on an 8 foot wall with the 12 foot door. Please excuse over-explaining. (Structural engineering is my background). All the best!

Alan, if at all possible... I would suggest as both Gene and Ryan have, and run the plates straight through - then place the header above as if it were a box beam. Continuous load paths are common requirements on the East Coast where home are constructed in the 140 mph wind zone. Believe it or not, that top plate is providing a tremendous amount of structural integrity. That "break" in the plate is a known issue if the house gets hit w/ 100+ mph wind even though it's being shown as having strapping onto the king studs. If it’s not possible to upturn the header, then a section of steel angle iron would be the ideal solution. Like a flitch plate sandwiched between the 6inch dropped header. This would be a much better and stronger wall framing scenario:

Ok. So the roof openings for sky-lites can't be turned off. The solution (to avoiding framed openings) seems to involve converting one of the solar "Sky-kites" into a symbol. Copy replicate. Done. The rafters will frame without skipping a beat. ...if there's an option for "no ceiling hole" - "no roof opening" would be a good one too. Instant solar panel feature.

It’s a small trade-off. Cad tools can represent the roof rafters, or one can manually frame them (by copy/replicate) after the initial auto build. This here may be the very best solution if it works. Tomorrow. Test run.

Sky-lites make solar panel installations a breeze. No ceiling hole. No worries. - No need for adjusting to the roof slopes either. The placement of a sky-lite (without a ceiling hole) matches the roof pitch exactly.

Corrugated metal roof texture would do it as well. With a tight axis in the short direction.

Aha... suggestion then. Use Rene's very clever option OR make a molding poly-line to match the stair case. Take a 2D elevation and draw a line along the top rail. Convert to a 3D molding. Moldings can have caps added to them. If you keep this molding below the railing however - no cap required.

Aside from Rene's very neat trick.. here's another option... Offset the stair railing (-3) so that it encompasses the stringers. Use the vertical offset option to set the rail "wall" in line w/ B.O. stringers. This way, it matches your stairs slope.

Build the radial section of rail @ the floor level as a U shape.(Meaning that it has (2) straight sections and a radial outer section.) Place an invisible wall the close off the U. Designate the U shaped room as "Open To Below". This makes it work as its own "room". Build the stairs as one would normally build them.

I think 14 allows this as feature as well. Not sure. The OP said that they're using 15 even though the signature indicates otherwise. Per your initial reply, (years ago before these rail options came out) 3D solids were the answer. One could make the baluster as a solid, hit copy replicate, and that was that. BTW... that red arrow didn't come from me. I personally wish that they would do away them. Hopefully the red tomato won't ever cause discouragement from contributing my friend. -All the best.

...plan for you as well. balcony rail.plan

The railings can be calibrated with offsets in every direction. Offset the railing Offset the balusters (in the vertical axis). Offset the newel posts (in the vertical axis). The balusters may not be chamfered as in the real world condition, but the design intent will be close. The settings are below. Baluster spacing by Chief is 5" on center by default. The first attachment shows them at 4" vs. the second image which shows 5" on center. It also appears in the as-built photos that the newels may drop down just a tad more. Good luck with this!

Build a 2nd floor exterior wall (which travels over the porch girder). Connect the wall back to the house on (2) sides and label the new space as Attic Drop the attic floor elevation by 12" + the difference in using either 2x6's or 2x8's (for the floor) vs. the 12" dormer joists. Whatever it takes to get the underside of attic framing to bottom out @ 9.0' above the porch elevation. The porch will need a 3D solid as the ceiling layer. It's a viable solution without too much work in having to fake the ceiling layer.

That's the solution. The dormer floor should technically stop at the outer wall of the dormer. The program however doesn't know how to make the distinction when the underside of floor and ceiling are two different elevations. Designate the left side porch as having no ceiling. Use the build ceiling tool to manually build the 9 foot section.