Larry_Sweeney

I'm working on a project where I have stone veneer on my first floor block walls and the same stone veneer setup on the stud walls above. I have some sort of Z- fighting at the top of the block wall and the bottom of the floor joist. (first attachment) It looks like to me it's the ceiling in a cross section. When the Main layers of the two walls on the different floor levels are lined up I don't think the z-fighting is there, but when I line up the stone veneer between the two levels it shows. I'm puzzled why and I haven't figured a way to eliminate it. I'm probably missing something pretty simple, but I made a mock up plan of two rooms above each other using the same walls I have in my project plan and the same thing occurs. (see attachment 2). I'm also sending the simple two room mockup plan. Appreciate your time and advice. Thanks P.S. Any ideas why this simple plan is so large? There seems to be a large amount of textures attached to the plan for some reason. simple plan.zip

Stephen...………….…….Thank you! That's exactly what I was looking for. I'll have to study that area of the window dbx. I've never used that before. Please tell me that it is something fairly new in CA. Maybe I shouldn't ask that question. Anyway--your time and knowledge is much appreciated. Have a great day.

I'm showing a "fake" door" on the exterior wall with a furred wall set on the inside. (see attachment) To do this I made an exterior fixture symbol of an early looking bead board door with a large wood sill. In the plan I made a "pass-thru" in the exterior wall the size of my door symbol. On the inside I have an additional furred wall but I don't want the "pass-thru" opening showing on this wall. Is there a setting I'm missing to accomplish this. I've tried changing the interior wall to "frame through" or "split framing", but that didn't work. I tried moving the wall a little distance away from the exterior wall, but that didn't help either. I would like to keep this interior wall next to the exterior, but I'm having no luck finding a way not to have the "pass thru" in the exterior wall kept from extending through into the interior wall. As always your time and knowledge is much appreciated.

I've seen that look on some renderings over the years (started with V10) and never figured out how to do it other than the way Chopsaw mentions. I'm all eyes (and ears) if this can be done (and it should) automatically.

Alan and Joe...………...Thank you both for your time and advice. Alan---the code description seems like I'm in the "clear", but Joe, your advice to contact the local building department is probably the best choice here. I've found over the years that "logical" and "code enforcement" aren't always down the same path. Thanks again. Be safe and have a great day.

Alan...…..Thanks for getting back to my question. I could not find any requirements for permanent stairs to an attic in my searching up to this point. I did find the min. requirements for fold down stairs and I could easily fit them into the design, but since I have the room for the permanent stairs I was hoping to build the one I have dimensioned. In the area where I could install permanent stairs to the attic area my risers would be 7 3/4" and my treads would be 8 1/2", but I wouldn't have a 3' area at the base of the stairs before the attic door. The door opens to a 4' wide hallway and headroom is not a problem. In my thinking these permanent stairs should be okay, but will the code (if any) permit them?

Are there certain requirements/codes for attic stairs in a commercial setting? The access is only needed for air handler maintenance and minimal storage.

Perry...……………….That may work at the eaves, but if you want the shingle to overhang up the gable, which it should also, it looks like the shadow board work around is the way to go.

To me, it seems fairly easy if done on the initial roof setup. I think it would also be something fairly easy to program into the roof defaults. Along with making it the same material as the roofing material.

Chopsaw……………..Thank you for the tidbit. That's definitely worth a point. It's what I call "thinking outside of the box!" I'll file that upstairs above my eyes.

I suppose this is too far over the "top", but it might give you some ideas. It's a project I did a number of years ago for an 1890's Victorian home,

Yes.

To be honest I don't think I opened my Launch Help since I downloaded X12, but when I did I got this. I never had this happen before since v10. What are my options? Has this ever happened to anyone else? Did I hit the wrong "something" when downloading X12? As always, all advice will be much appreciated.

I was a builder for over 45 yrs. and I see no problem with this fascia other than the drip edge should extend at a minimum of at least another one half inch beyond the top fascia board. I see no reason to criticize the detail. What little bit I see of the house it looks like it fits in win the "horizontal" theme.

Dermot...……..….Thanks for the info. After looking at the "fix" I decided to contact my son-in-law. He's a computer techy. If I can make the problem occur again I'll send it into support. Have a great day.

To be clear, I don't have or much understand "computer savvy". I was having a problem with CA X12 this morning and it keep closing the program. I finally discovered why and worked around the problem, but the last time CA closed unexpectedly and I went to reopen it I got this message. I have noticed that it is definitely working slower. What does this message mean and how can I get it unenabled? I've tried closing the program and reopening it, but I keet getting this same message before it would open. As I said earlier, I'm not very computer savvy so please bear with me. All advice will be much appreciated.

I've been using a 55" Hisense since January. I have had no issues and love it. I use that and a pair of Hp 2511 on the side.

To All...….…………….Thank you for your time and advice. Got it! Be safe and have a great day.

Mark...….…………..Thanks for the info. My wife has some "projects" for me at the moment. As soon as I can I'll play around with the info you gave. This should give me something to work with. Be safe and have a great day. I'll keep you all posted.

Mark...….………….Not quite sure how to use the lever to work with. Those items aren't like a conventional symbol where you can "open" them up from the library and check their origins. Is it "origins" what you are referring too or am I in a different "ballpark"?

Here I am again. I made a late 18th century plate latch for a door (way to much time on my hands ) and I'm trying to get it to place correctly on the door. On one side of the door I have the plate latch and on the other just a round brass knob. I call for the set back to be 2 3/4" which places the single brass knob correctly, but the plate latch is placed on the door as shown in the attachment. I've tried adjusting the "Origin Offset" for the plate latch symbol but the plate latch will not go any closer to the edge even if I tell it to be zero inches from the edge. The round knob on the other side will move to the edge, but not the latch plate. It seems like CA "reads" the edge of the symbol when next to the edge of the door. Then as it move in on the stile it starts to read the center of the symbol for placing. When CA places a lever latch it uses the correct area on the symbol for placing the lever latch. In doing that I'm thinking they must be using some kind of "Origin Offset" to accomplish this. If I need to I'll attach the latch and brass knob symbol along with the door in a wall plan file in a later thread. Any ideas?

It's stretching like it should on my end now and I didn't do anything other than rebooting the program. Thanks to all for taking the time and advice. Be safe and have a great day.

Here is the Door 8 Panel Colonial Door.calibz

Eric...…………..Not sure how to send just the symbol

Here is a wall with the door installed in it Mark...….………..My door looks like it has the same stretch zones as yours. COLONIAL DOOR.plan