Larry_Sweeney

Perry.................I'm not sure what you mean. Could you clarify a little more?

Mike............Yes, I was very lucky to find it. I had a cousin in the lumber business that bought the contents out of a huge warehouse that was stuffed full of about anything you could imagine. There was about 1000 bf. of old growth clear pine stacked in it. We finally found out it was cut around 1900 by the great grandfather of the present owner. Lucky for my cousin, no one remembered was there. He ended up getting it for pennies on the dollar. The first thing he did was call me. I will never (or anyone else) ever see Eastern White Pine like that. Some of the boards were over 30" wide with growth rings as tight as 1/32" apart. You must remember, these boards aren't salvaged pieces. They were never used before. I "almost" felt guilty cutting them. They will be used for very special projects. Hopefully I'll live long enough for all the "right" projects.

I had 6 weeks into it. I wanted to have it finished for Christmas, but I was three week late.---------- Oh well, my wife still accepted it. All the moldings were made with old molding planes. Almost all parts were attached by wooden pegs. I used 200yr. old glass in the door. The H hinges were hand forged. All the wood was hand planed. The 20" shelving was all made from a single width board----no glue ups. The painting took over a week to get the correct patina and decorated look. The kids are already trying to decide who will get first dibs. This is my 5th or sixth piece I've made for my wife/kids, so there will be plenty to go around.

Scott.......................Thank you. Your complement is much appreciated. It seems every time I get into a project anymore I'm "taxing" CA with an unusual problem, but I love the challenge and the program. Lately I've been doing a lot of work in my cabinet shop building period furniture for my family and have been away from the computer and CA. I'm getting to a point in my life where one has to start thinking about leaving "heirlooms" for the kids. Here's my latest cabinet project. It's styled after an early 1800's painted Pennsylvania corner cupboard. I made it from a stash of quarter sawn pine I have that was cut from virgin timber 150 yrs. ago and never used. By counting the growth rings in some of the boards, the trees were growing before Columbus came to North America. It was built in the same way that it would have been built in the early 1800's. The hardware was all handmade. All this probably doesn't mean much to you, but when you love your work, whether it's designing a house or building a piece of furniture, you have to "show off" sometimes. Sorry about getting "off track"-------------Have a great day.

Kevin.........................Your way could possibility work in some cases. In my instance my eave and gable overhangs were different lengths and when adjusting the offsets they move both eave and gable using the same offset distance. I built a completely separate roof a specified distance from my model, adjusted it's size and baseline height to make a bed mold shadow board the size I needed to fit the frieze area on my model. I then copied it directly across to my model. Yes, it was a PITA getting it to fit correctly, but I think it's the only way I could do it under my circumstances. Of course I would be tickled pink if someone comes up with a quicker solution, but I have my doubts.

Scott.............When I attempted to use "frieze" the bed molding would be in the vertical/perpendicular position at the eaves. It also wasn't showing on some eaves. As far as I can figure this situation out, the way it was discussed by Eric, is the only way to do this work around.---------VERY TIME CONSUMING! I almost had it figured out on my own, but I had my eaves set for a plumb cut instead of a square cut. Thanks to Eric I was corrected.

Using a shadow board. The trick was getting it aligned correctly all the way around the building

FINISHED!............ Eric & Michael............Thank you for your advice! Have a great day.

Eric...............I realize the mistake I was making. I'm ashamed to be saying it. Early on I did exactly what you are explaining to me now. I now realize now I had my eave set for a plumb cut and not a square cut. ---OLD FART MOMENT! The hardest thing is getting the molding all lined up correctly. It would be nice if we could highlite one line of the molding p-line and use "Transform/Replicate" and be able to move the line accurately. All kind of "things" start showing incorrectly when trying to move a 3D molding p-line.---------- At least for me.

Michael.................Are you saying that what I stated to Eric might not occur using X11?

I'm trying to run a bed molding at my soffit as shown in the attachment drawing. Can this be done in CA? I'm stumped! I've tried using it as a frieze, shadow molding (with offsets) and using a 3D molding p-line. I just want the bed molding only. The frieze boards I installed with p-solids due to the 45 degree angle of the frieze board under the eaves. I would think I should be able to do this with a 3D molding p-line. When viewing the gable in elevation I run the 3D molding p-line down the gable, but then how do you turn it to go back along the eaves correctly and get it to look as shown in the attachment? When trying to install the bed molding as a frieze it will run around the soffit, but not as in the attached drawing. When the bed molding runs along the eaves it is shows incorrectly. I've spent hours trying to figure out a solution. Any and all help will be much appreciated.

Eric & Cheryl .................................Thanks for the quick responses. Eric, your answer was correct, but Cheryl's answer was a little clearer for me. I didn't realize (or at some point I forgot ) that darkening the color would "tint" the glass. Thanks again and have a great day.

Is there a way to slightly tint a glass shower wall so it shows better when making an image for viewing?

Bob..............Yes, I have look at those areas before. This has been bugging me for a long time, but today it just put me over the edge. Like I mentioned before, one time the temp. dimension is right next to the object and the next object it may be many feet away. There must be a "cause for this. Have you ever noticed this happening or is it only me. Thanks for taking the time to look at this.

What controls the distance the dimension is placed from the object when using temp. dimension? Sometimes it will be right next to the item (on the monitor screen) when clicked on to get the temp dimension and then the next item you click on the temp. dimension will be many feet away off the screen. There seems to be no rhyme or reason for this distance. Is there a setting somewhere to control this?

Eric.......................Thank you. Have a great day

I'm opening up a new plan with X10's default plan template so I'm not sure that's the problem. CA's info is pretty vague.

When I open a new plan, go to the Project Browser, click on Plan Views, there are no default Plan Views. I've checked out the training videos and knowledge base on plan views and from what I'm understanding there should be default plan views already there. Is there somewhere to go and load them? What am I missingThank you

To all............I'm now on the right track. Thank you for taking the time and your knowledge. Have a great day.

Mick..................Yes, I'm pretty sure there has been threads about this before, but as usual my searches so far hasn't come up with the correct subject. If you don't have the search worded exactly like the original thread sometimes it can never be found

Can this railing be made for a railing wall or does it have to be accomplished manually? Thanks in advance for taking the time.

Eric......................Nice Tip! Much appreciated. I'll file that in the "upstairs". I just hope I don't forget where the file is. Have a great day.

Chopsaw..............I will try that. Sounds good to me. Mick.................I did use the Windows Snipping Tool. Maybe adding them "into" the thread instead of just leaving them as attachments is what caused them to be so small. Chopsaw & Mick..............Thank you both for your time and knowledge. Have a great day.

Mick...............Thanks for taking the time. Your knowledge and advice is much appreciated. I now understand that I can change joist width for certain areas by group selecting, but what I'm gathering is the on center width can not be changed by group selecting. It looks like I would have to delete the joist that are at the wrong on centers and manually install them. Is that correct? Above all none of this can be setup in the auto framing for different areas