SHCanada2

lower the roof planes using the transform replicate tool, or make the eave width larger

as well, if this is existing house, to be accurate you would need to know the heel height or difference in top plate to bottom of fascia If rafters, the birdsmouth depth is not certain l Below you have is that as measured from the top of subfloor on site? Typically to know for sure, one would have to go into the attic, or open up the soffit or do some math on relative heights (such as measure from top of window to eave, then measure from ceiling to top of window inside)

one side of your gable has 12" overhang while the other has 18"...not sure if that is intentional

your roof pitches are 8:12 and 3:12 when auto built: the bottom wall has it as 8:12

It still shows correct top plate. after the rebuild of the roofs, the proper way to eliminate roofs is to use the roof intersect tool. the one I modified is too big to attach, but deletde all roofs but the main tw0 over the breezeway and then, modify those 2 to meet the garage

where do you see that? I do not

Is this more what you are looking ofr 05.05.2025_13.31.15_REC.mp4

it looks like a gable above the entry would be more feasible, as It does not look like you have enough room horizontally for a dormer with more than tiny walls

I think it you detach perpendicular deck walls from the house and run a parallel deck wall to the house about a foot away, and then move it to be next to the brick and then make it invisible, it seems to work:

see attached with 2 sections, both with same elevations for top plates, then I raise the roofs on the right structure and rebuild the framing. You can see the top plate stays the same I must be missing something, you probably want to post the plan 04.05.2025_21.17.00_REC.mp4

i use it all the time because the CA truss heel height can only be set per plan, and not per roof plane

when you build the roofs are you setting the same height eaves checkbox? You could also just raise the roof planes using the transform replicate button, in the Z direction As a note, the fascia heights will be different elevations if the roof pitches are different and eave width are the same, and you do not set same height eaves. Alternatively to raising the roof, you could also change the width of the eave unitl you got the facia elevations to match...but that might not be desirable

decks here are attached to the rim board via a ledger board. ..I havent tried it but did you try running a deck railing along the house, parallel to the house wall? CA does not like walls really close together, so not sure how close you could get it

when you print to PDF choose 11x`17 and change the print options to not be "to scale"

just start typing at the bottom of the page where it says "reply to this topic"

you can also highlight what you want to quote and wait half a second and a little bubble should pop up "quote selection

you probably need to post the plan

above previous thread has some statistics also depends on X16 vs X15( or earlier) for number of samples

is this on a laptop? If so, the laptop will typically constrain the GPU when on battery. What version of CA are you using?

its 5 clicks to get something decent for interior , background intensity, sunlight intensity, exposure, brightness....and make sure to add some lights

also what I do(create on lowest level I am working with). It becomes a bit of a PIA when doing houses on sloped terrain, as the garage is typically on a different level, as are main floor cantilevers. This is where the reference display should be used (or create polylines and duplicate to different floors....I've done it, and don't recommend it). If you do not do either, you can be stuck guessing where to draw the driveway to (because you cannot see the garage on the foundation level)

I did an interesting test yesterday. I measured, I also received the realtor floor plan (which is iguide, which is a lidar scanner/photogrammetry setup in each room. I think realtors pay 3rd parties about $400 for a full house scan using this hardware and software), and cubicasa on my phone (which is a photogrammetry app and cost $10). This is a basement which was interesting because although the exterior concrete wall is not jagged, the interior wood walls next to them differed from nothing by the stairs to 2x4 on flat on the south wall, to 2x4 everywhere else. Plus, there was a supporting 2x6 wall which runs down the middle. Neither of them caught the 2x6 wall down the middle as being 2x6. But the iguids caught the difference in wall width in the bottom, left, and by the stairs. cubicasa also has an incorrect width for the laundry room. Both iguide and cubicasa mistook a light fixture above the toilet for a window. Neither of them tell you about the bulkheads (which I drew in the CA plan) so, for $10 its good if you do not need the accuracy (the use case for me is, customers are doing a basement reno and the city also needs a main floor plan "for their records" and as such does not need to be perfect). For iguide at $400, its better, but because it does not have varying wall widths, it does not calculate the gross floor area correctly (which here is to outside walls). Ironically cubicasa has the more accurate GFA in this case. I'm still on the lookout for an app in which you can actually get the 3d model, in order to double check dimensions, and see anomalies before they (the purveyors of these softwares) create a floor plan...assuming they give you the unadjusted model.

there are tow different types of ray tracing. CPU, and Realtime. open up a floor camera, edit it's settings and change to "physically pabsed

this would be a typical backyard garage suite here. I draw garage on floor 1 and specify stem wall depth. I draw living area on floor 2. I draw terrain on floor 1 I create a site plan that shows roads, sidewalks outside walls etc. and then use a reference plan if I have to show something on a different level

integrate with slices https://math.libretexts.org/Courses/Monroe_Community_College/MTH_211_Calculus_II/Chapter_6%3A_Applications_of_Integration/6.2%3A_Determining_Volumes_by_Slicing ...jk might also be able to put a psolid across the entire terrain and then set its top to be the top of the terrain, with a thickness of whatever will be enough for your cuts. and then model your terrain with the cuts, and then make another psolid, and then use the psolid tools to subtract (might have to cut the bottom to be horizontal). Havent tried it, but might be worth a shot. I'm doing a very sloped lot right now and might try it in the next couple days. I have the undisturbed, current conditions terrain in another .plan file