SHCanada2

I personally would prefer it this way, I change, add layers to layer sets fairly often. having a prompt would be a headache for me.

i do a fair amount of manufactured home work, where the outside dims are only ever 4 different dimensions, but the inside wall, and elevations get moved around. I'll have 4 versions of close to the same thing. I simply copy the plan and layout to another directory, rename. open up the layout, change the reference file, then make the changes to the plan. The layout rarely changes(typically the kitchen elevations have to be redone if they are on a different wall). As joe said the elevations are automatic once you change walls, roof lines. Its a bit of a pain remembering things to check, but for the little actual time it takes it is hard to complain. To be honest I spend a fair amount of relative time(i.e. doing the structural modifications and resulting elevations are quick) saving to pdf, viewing, noticing I missed something and then going back and redoing. It's little stuff like the deck piles are too high above the ground, or I want to shift the window to look better under the gable. But I have significantly reduced my time since I started by getting the template file, default sets, and layer sets setup as I like. I do loathe doing electrical, constantly putting the two switches, fan in the bathroom... You can copy groups of things from plan to plan. I've done it with rooms, so you might be able to do it with electrical Be wary of the "save as" for plans. My experience is the layout tries to follow along and use the new filename. So I close CA, then do the copy noted above of both plan and layout to avoid this

I have it as insulated. but i'm not sure how it helps, as the energy calc requires a calc of the floor, AFAIK. so even if the stairs have walls around it built to R100, the path of most heat loss will be through the concrete foundation below the stairs. .. or maybe the full height wall of the stairwell is used, and the concrete floor area below the stairs is calced and referenced against a foundation floor instead of against a floor above grade . in other words calc as if the stairs are not even there. that might be the easiest of the complicated solutions. zone 7A floor at grade is required to have 1.96 RSI looks like some funky foundation insulating work if people are calcing this way for this little space: (B below). a magic 1.2M of insulation is required. Still I'm wondering if this is actually what people are doing...

btw there was some small facia piece at the intersection, not sure if it was there on purpose. saw it with all layers on

i always wonder what the ink costs are for these printers. I've stayed away from ink/bubble jets for years after getting raped and pillaged for ink. looks like they are $40 per cartridge and you need 3 plus B&W. if you get it, I'd be curious on how many sheets you get before you need more ink (it will be varied I'm sure based on plans, but it would be good to know even a ballpark). I print infrequently, but the print shop is a long ways away.

yes not changeable. I had a similar thread about six months ago, and added it to the suggestions forum

i think the left is a gable as well. i would do two gables, and manually edit and move it across the front

If it makes you feel any better, I finally had to write this down after working with CA for 3 months and never remembering what the magic setting was, and kept thinking it was in the camera dialog box somewhere I finally changed the text size for the K&B camera layer in my K&B layer set to 3/8" text (I think i had to create it) style and updated my template file as I typically show it in layout as a larger scale than other plans I would also advise to put the K&B camera on its own layer if you intend to isolate from other cameras

Thanks for the info, the only CAD details I have which are to scale, are custom ones, and even those are typically cheated somewhere (bolt is not actually 1/2" wide in CAD). I used to put in stuff like eave width in the detail, but it was only a number with some fake dim lines. But I've moved to dimensioning the roof plan, and using macros for specifying "2x6" as fascia size. I do add saddles and post caps, but those I usually add directly to cross sections, and I have little CAD blocks that I resize to fit the posts/beams So I think I will try and see how it goes, and if I need something to scale, I'll remember to do it in CAD detail. I've never really understood how one can do a CAD detail to scale when there are things that are close to zero thickness (roofing underlay, tyvek, eave protection, drip edge, etc) and they are right on top of each other. Thanks again

curious. what happens when you click the "check knowledgebase" button

tried that. it errored out, could not install the driver. yes laptop

after you search for your diver at NVDIA below the results is: Although GeForce Game Ready Drivers and NVIDIA Studio Drivers can be installed on supported notebook GPUs, the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) provides certified drivers for your specific notebook on their website. NVIDIA recommends that you check with your notebook OEM for recommended software updates for your notebook.

maybe same as this: when I had my midget floor problem

thanks the studio drivers are a bit of a risk for me as gigabyte says to download drivers from their site (as does NVDIA says to download from manufacturers site), and Gigabyte does not have the studio drivers on their site But I downloaded them anyway two weeks ago. I get crashes but I'm not sure it is CA as I get them on Netflix on edge as well. I just move to chrome yesterday so I'll see if it makes a difference. I never had a problem with my old laptop with the 1xxx NVDIA card, so i think it might be the 30xx card

you piqued my interest. I do not see how they relate How would this occur if you frame on the outside of the foundation wall as opposed to the brick on the foundation wall?

sooo, would one consider this a bug? It was smart enough to not put in a ceiling, except where it intersects the wall. I notice in the cross section, there is still a 1/2" gap, just does not protrude beyond the siding any more

I was able to get rid of it by going into the room db->ceiling finish->edit, then delete the ceiling layer is that what you mean?

I must be losing it. I do not know what this means. There is no ceiling plane that I can see. I see no shortcut menu when I select the room to edit anything. I search the forum for "edit ceiling" and found someone that said there is a menu, but a search of the doc indicates no such menu. May I ask how to I click to get to something that I can edit the ceiling layers in order to delete it? thanks

I always wonder how one can dimension to stud, but then have compliance to setbacks. I have seen tons on plot plans on new builds which indicate distances to PL off of the framing member. But then I have seen surveyors go to the outside wall finish. Our bylaw has a clause for what is allowable in the setback, but nowhere does it say finishing components It makes no sense to me, in theory the City approves the first new build submttal with a building framing/foundation at the setback, but then once a surveyor comes along, is it now non compliant? and here, if you are selling a house you need to get a surveyors report, take it to city hall and have them stamp it for compliance. sometimes I have seen the surveyor call out the presumed depth of finish. I'm thinking no one cares about the inch, but really as people start adding rainscreens, external insulation, or brick, 4" on a 4' setback exceeds the allowable tolerance here (which i believe is 4%) so back to your question, maybe the City required it and instead of creating two sets of dimensioned plans, he only got so far and had only created one.

I had to do another one so I faked it with ballusters, top rail and bottom rail, specified balluster at 5.5", spacing at 6.25", close enough. cant tell from the elevation that they are 5.5 square. All I do know is the vast majority of fences here are 4x4 posts with 2x4 across top and bottom, sometimes 2x4 on flat. Top sometimes is down from from the top to give the picket look. This customer built a fence and a privacy wall all above bylaw height and now the City wants elevations in order to approve the over height, , which is why I am a little picky on the details as that is all the drawings are...fences, and a plot plan. I did the horizontal before I saw the advice above, so it is just the basket weave altered on the CAD detail(created own gap and then multiple copied down). but I like the idea from above anyway turned out good I think

good call. chamfered tops. guess i could reverse the wall to get rid of it in elevation. I just want a plain old vanilla fence. 1x6 vertical boards attached to top and bottom rails... who would have thought it would be this obscure

hmm sounds simple, let me try that. another intereting i found, for the stock oxford fence, it shows something on the top of the fence board, but not the post. almost like it is drawing a 2x perpendicular any idea on how to get rid of it? when I convert to CAD detail, it becomes very apparent. it is also on the bottom

I've been fiddling around with the fence properties trying to get a fence with fence posts every 8 feet and horizontal 1x6 running between them with a half inch gap. Tried 22 ways to sunday. no luck. is there some trick to get this? closest I can get is a basket weave using the "panel" option:, but the other problem is the post stops on the lower stepped fence, it needs to go to the top of the higher elevation fence found "horizontal rail" in the catalog but it has vertical lines every 12" and I see no way to make the vertical gap smaller. and still the same post problem any ideas? I'm sure I cant be the first person to try this...although a search of the forum for "horizontal fencing" seems to suggest this is not common

12 button mouse utech , but i am looking for something different, as pressing the buttons (they are on the side) takes too much force and moves the mouse.

you can also go into the window dialog and uncheck the interior casing...but of course you lose the casing. I find the cabinets bump into a lot of things. I tend to use the ctrl key to place close to where I want and then do small adjustments from there using the arrow keys